Tools for kitbashing
- Thread starter JorgeC
- Start date
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You've picked a very ambitious goal for your first project.
Some tools that come to mind for almost any modeller: X-Acto knife, with #11 blades and chisel blades, scale rule, razor saw, assortment of needle files, pin vise, with a set of good quality bits, divider (one from an old math set will do - it's useful for transferring dimensions), assorted grades of sandpaper, and a good styrene cement (I use lacquer thinner, which is cheap and works well). Add a couple of brushes for applying the cement, too.
Since the loco that you want to build is narrow gauge, you may be doing some major work on the frame of whatever loco you're starting with. For this, I'd suggest a hacksaw and a couple of mill files, and, to put the narrowed frame back together, a suitably sized tap. You can use a regular drill to make the required holes for splice plates, as long as you choose a suitable screw size. Not absolutely necessary, but handy for some tasks, a variable speed Dremel tool, with some suitably-shaped grinding burrs and also some cut-off discs.
Good luck with your project. I hope that you'll keep us updated on your progress, and of course, don't be afraid to ask for help if you run into any problems.
Wayne
Some tools that come to mind for almost any modeller: X-Acto knife, with #11 blades and chisel blades, scale rule, razor saw, assortment of needle files, pin vise, with a set of good quality bits, divider (one from an old math set will do - it's useful for transferring dimensions), assorted grades of sandpaper, and a good styrene cement (I use lacquer thinner, which is cheap and works well). Add a couple of brushes for applying the cement, too.
Since the loco that you want to build is narrow gauge, you may be doing some major work on the frame of whatever loco you're starting with. For this, I'd suggest a hacksaw and a couple of mill files, and, to put the narrowed frame back together, a suitably sized tap. You can use a regular drill to make the required holes for splice plates, as long as you choose a suitable screw size. Not absolutely necessary, but handy for some tasks, a variable speed Dremel tool, with some suitably-shaped grinding burrs and also some cut-off discs.
Good luck with your project. I hope that you'll keep us updated on your progress, and of course, don't be afraid to ask for help if you run into any problems.
Wayne
DocWayne hit the nail right on the head.Just take your time while building and enjoy the build.
Patrick
Beaufort,SC
Dragon river steel corp {DRSC}
Patrick
Beaufort,SC
Dragon river steel corp {DRSC}
N
nachoman
Just a heads up on narrow-guaging...
All my experience applies to N scale, but I'm guessing a lot of the same problems cross the scale boundries.
I recently narrowguaged a Bachmann 4-4-0, and am in the process of doing the same to a bachmann 2-6-2, DDM45 trucks (DD40X), a Kato 11-105 B train chassis (for tender drive on the 4-4-0), and a Bachmann Doodlebug.
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I had 4-5 paragraphs here talking about the problems you'll run into trying to narrow an HO chassis (using my Nn3 knowledge), but it became incoherent babble.
I'll just summarise: Use an N scale chassis for drive. Or 2 chassis, each driving it's own truck.
Narrowing the standard guage trucks on a diesel are a nightmare, in my experience. There are just too many variables, and very often, the design of the truck doesn't lend itself well to modification.
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Other tools for narrow-guaging:
Round Punches - for pressing axles in or out of wheels (for removal or reguaging)
Vise - Doesn't have to be big. Always useful.
Micrometer, Digital Calipers, Depth Guage - You'll be doing a lot of precise measuring.
Cyanoacrylate glue - unless you like using 2 part epoxies, you'll need this for some metal parts, and ABS plastics. (Most trucks are ABS)
I'll probably think of more in about an hour when the Kato chassis comes out of the project box... any more questions, just ask.
All my experience applies to N scale, but I'm guessing a lot of the same problems cross the scale boundries.
I recently narrowguaged a Bachmann 4-4-0, and am in the process of doing the same to a bachmann 2-6-2, DDM45 trucks (DD40X), a Kato 11-105 B train chassis (for tender drive on the 4-4-0), and a Bachmann Doodlebug.
----
I had 4-5 paragraphs here talking about the problems you'll run into trying to narrow an HO chassis (using my Nn3 knowledge), but it became incoherent babble.
I'll just summarise: Use an N scale chassis for drive. Or 2 chassis, each driving it's own truck.
Narrowing the standard guage trucks on a diesel are a nightmare, in my experience. There are just too many variables, and very often, the design of the truck doesn't lend itself well to modification.
----
Other tools for narrow-guaging:
Round Punches - for pressing axles in or out of wheels (for removal or reguaging)
Vise - Doesn't have to be big. Always useful.
Micrometer, Digital Calipers, Depth Guage - You'll be doing a lot of precise measuring.
Cyanoacrylate glue - unless you like using 2 part epoxies, you'll need this for some metal parts, and ABS plastics. (Most trucks are ABS)
I'll probably think of more in about an hour when the Kato chassis comes out of the project box... any more questions, just ask.
What gauge are you building it? The prototypes were 3'6". (The one in your example photo has been converted to meter gauge.)
Hello Everyone,
I already have a friend building the engine. He is an excellent kitbasher, but he might have problems with the turning radius of the trucks, since the real engine was narrow gauge and I'm having him build it as a standard gauge engine. I'm going to try something simpler for my first kitbash. Thanks for all the help.
Have fun,
Jorge
I already have a friend building the engine. He is an excellent kitbasher, but he might have problems with the turning radius of the trucks, since the real engine was narrow gauge and I'm having him build it as a standard gauge engine. I'm going to try something simpler for my first kitbash. Thanks for all the help.
Have fun,
Jorge