TL-01 Axles - and now handling/steering probs

Discussion in 'RC General & Getting Started' started by ARC-Ltd, Nov 15, 2005.

  1. ARC-Ltd

    ARC-Ltd Guest

    My TL-01la has this annoying problem developing- it happens while driving, usually around a corner of some form - the drive axles (front and rear and various stages) come out of the chassis housing far enough to not contact with the diff at all (thus stopping drive to that wheel) - they can easily be pushed back in place- but comes out again sooner or later.
    The axles are only very lightly pressed into the chassis - It appears there is really nothing to actually secure them in this position and it is just left to divine forces to keep them ifrom popping out.
    I have just put these parts in a brand new chassis so its not a wear thing...
    Has any one else had problems with this at all or does anyone know how to remedy it?
    Also - is it just me- or are TL-01's really bad for play in the joints and assemblys of the steering and suspension systems? (susp arms, hubs etc)
  2. VDubbin

    VDubbin Guest

    I usually put an o ring into one of the cups to keep pressue oin the dogbone to avoid it popping out.
  3. ARC-Ltd

    ARC-Ltd Guest

    Now theres a bloody great idea!
    Cheers I'll try that - but the dogbone needs a small amount of movement inwards for when the suspension is compressed - did it effect that at all?
  4. SpArKeY_STi

    SpArKeY_STi Guest

    It shouldnt, it would just create slight grind marks on the bones.

    Also, if that doesnt work, i suggest (even if it does work accually) doing a thurough rundown of your chassis. This used to happen to my Micro RS4 a lot. I found a tiny fracture in one of the a arms, causeing it to under pressure, stretch and have the dog bone drop out. If you find a *Fractured*, Epoxy it, if its cracked, buy a new one.
  5. ARC-Ltd

    ARC-Ltd Guest

    the chassis itself is so new I havent driven it yet however- after thorough inspection of the driveline I have found that there is a fracture in one of the rear axles which i have replaced with a spare. Thanks Sparky- man you really have to look hard for the fractures in those axle arms i had to get my glasses out and im still in my 20's!! :shock:

    I also found there was one axle that already had an o-ring so I have done likewise with the rest - the rear requiring 2 as I have just fitted it with longer suspension arms. This has reduced the amount of horizontal axle movement significantly - even so the axles are still able to come out at least 2 or 3 mm - the car is still being rebuilt so it is yet to be put to the ultimate test of actually driving it but will keep you posted......
    Thanks
  6. SpArKeY_STi

    SpArKeY_STi Guest

    Ya, anytime. But try finding those fractures with a car 1/4th the size of yours :eek: Takes some training to get thoes buggers. But normally you can tell if you have one, its finding where it accually is that sucks. Thats what i leanred that little trick on. Now with racing my TC3 sometimes, i know what to look for.
  7. ARC-Ltd

    ARC-Ltd Guest

    After a major testing day at the track yesterday- i am rather happy with my new chassis and my axles no longer pop-out! THANKS!)- I have gone back to the original rear suspension arms as one of the aluminium arms i had installed from spares had a serious wobble in the hub..
    I experimented with hard/soft springs front and rear and changed the steering and camber settinds around etc until the car behaved like i wanted it to...smoothly.... however - I do have one small niggle which i was unable to resolve.

    The car seems to turn more aggresively one way than the other. It was only evident on hard turns - for example- i discovered it when i approached a hairpin - after i had braked briefly i would turn into the corner (basically full lock for a split second). Now if i do this on a hairpin going to the right, the car will slide out in the rear - i.e go into a temporary drift-ish motion - not ideal. However, if i approached the exact same corner doing exactly the same speed and turned exactly the same way except now going the opposite way (to the left) - the car handled beautifully- gripping all the way through the corner rather than washing out like it does the other way. Like i said- its only on really sharp turning situations but i kinda need to get it sorted because i dont want my race car sliding out at all- thats for my drifter set up!

    I have paid alot of attention to setting this thing up accurately by measuring all the adjustments i do so each side is the same. My oil shocks have been rebuilt and all the settings are identical left to right including camber and toe. I'm running slicks- so no traction issues..
    I am runnning soft-ish blues on the front (with a spacer to stiffen a bit) and oranges on the rear (with 2 spacers for harder rear end)
    I have tried and changed alot of variables to try and solve this problem but to no avail. I have a feeling it may be the Ackerman settings> Any suggestions>?
  8. SpArKeY_STi

    SpArKeY_STi Guest

    Spacers arnt for stiffining, its for raiseing the ride height...

    My only guess as of now would be theres something binding, or your servo and such arnt centered well enough, and its hitting the stopping point. I'd take your servo and all out and re-calibrate it all.
  9. ARC-Ltd

    ARC-Ltd Guest

    re the spacers - This is my understanding of the way they work- correct me where im wrong- if i dont have spacers in on my shocks the car actually drags on the ground and the suspension does not spring upwards at all. when i put spacers in it effectively compresses the springs and aswell as raising the height it makes the suspension feel and react as 'harder' (compressed) springs would . Is this not correct?
  10. SpArKeY_STi

    SpArKeY_STi Guest

    Partially. But your car shouldnt drag at all, with or without spacers. Im guessing your shocks are the plastic body ones with the spacers that clip in? If so then its just to raise the height. Think of it as a slinky. No matter how long or short you make that slinky, it will have the same compression. Adding compression on the shock wont change its value, but will lift the car, and keep the shock in place. If your car is scrapeing somewhere on the ground without the spacers, i personally would have that checked out. I've never heard of that being a problem before.
  11. ARC-Ltd

    ARC-Ltd Guest

    Ok the Slinky thing makes sense - but I'm now more concerned - I didnt think it was right to have basically no rebound action. Yes im using the plastic spacers that clip in place - they were in the car when i bought it. Maybe ive got the wrong springs in - I did get the actual car from an ex racer guy who was a frankenstien with his car - he had butchered everything so it is possible they are from another shock. Are they meant to become loose when the suspension is at full extension (with the car off the ground - and no spacers in) because mine do...
  12. SpArKeY_STi

    SpArKeY_STi Guest

    Frakencars... yup, i've had that one happen. With you saying that, im thinking the springs may be from another car or such. Cause i know TC3 shocks are tiny compaired to some other brands. What i would do is try and figureout what parts are for your car, and whats not. And kinda go from there.

    If what your talking about with them becoming loose you mean you put the shock on the car, sping on the shock, and basicly let the wheels hang you can push the shock up and down with no tension from the spring, just the shock oil, yes. That does happen. I'll try and get some pics tonight about my shock and such. ANd i'll put an explination of what im showing under the pic.
  13. Kenji_Sasaki

    Kenji_Sasaki Guest

    dont put too many o rings as it can create alot of friction with cornering

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