Tips for holding while glue sets?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by RCBrust, Mar 3, 2007.

  1. RCBrust

    RCBrust New Member

    Hello, I'm new to card modeling and am wondering if anyone has any tips or techniques they use for supporting various parts while the glue dries, especially jounts that have pressure on them.

    For example, say you are forming a rectangular piece into a cylinder. I am planning on starting by pre-shaping the curve into the piece. Then I'll glue the connecting strip onto one side and let that dry. Finally, I'll form the cylinder. Now, when this final joint is made and the cylinder is complete, would you perhaps apply a piece of waxed paper and then some kind of weight to hold the joint? Or are there better ways to hold something like this?

  2. MOS95B

    MOS95B Member

    Great question!!

    I'll start by admitting I suck at circles and tubes. But, I have developed my method that produces good tubes about 85-90 % of the time...

    I have a piece of dowel, about 1/4 inch diamter, that I run behind the joint. I then hold each end with the pad of each thumb. Then, I have The Missus press down the rest of the joint for me. If/when she's not available, I carefully rub the joint along an old mouse pad I have nearby.

    I spread my glue thin enough, as well, that within about 15 to 20 seconds it is dry enough to bond on it's own.

    I can't wait to learn better tricks from the pro's though....
  3. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    I've found an indespensible aid to be alligator clips.

    You can buy them cheap from Radio Shack in sizes ranging from tiny to large.

    Take a pair of pliers and bend the points inwards on the larger size clips to provide a flat surface that won't leave marks on the paper.

    Works like a charm! :)
  4. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member


    Radio Shack also has flat copper clips for soldering.
  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    If you've got a lot of the same size small tubes (like engine cylinders, ships' parts, etc.), try cutting a circle the same size as the outside diameter of the finshed tube in some thick card stock. Pre-roll as you have already started and slip it inside the hole. This will hold the joint together - then you can coat the INSIDE with glue for a really neat joint!

  6. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    Hmmm... not mine, apparently! :roll:
  7. BARX2

    BARX2 Member

  8. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    I use basically the same things that BARX2 uses. They work good.

    Other things I use are bamboo skewers to apply pressure along the whole length of the joint until the glue sets up. Long wood dowels work too.

    Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue(silver bottle) or Fast Grab Tacky Glue(purple bottle) works great for those times when a quick glue set are needed.:)
  9. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Pretty much what they said :D Welcome to the fold!
  10. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    Drill bits, my x-acto knife handles, dowels, thin spread glue, tiny clothespins, smoothe jaw needle nose pliars, tweezers, tape, paperweights...TIME!

    Oh...and the ever popular, tongue at 10:00 :twisted:
  11. RCBrust

    RCBrust New Member

    Thanks for the tips guys. I'm currently working on the Currell V-2 rocket. I've been modeling all my life (flying models) but this is my first try at card modeling. It's a whole new skill set. I decided to try some of the techniques out on plain paper before I try the real thing. Gotta be able to make nice smooth round cylinders and cones before I work on the V-2. :)

  12. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    Jump right into cardstock if you plan on staying with may THANK me later.
    This is only my opinion!
  13. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    You Might Try...,

    Things to try:

    o Masking tape made into 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) wide strips. Use the less sticky type or "work" the mastic till it's less sticky. Narrow maksing tape won't cause surface damage.

    o 1/4 inch (12 mm) wide strips of plastic wrap. I use this for a lot of difficult situtations. Cut it long enough to wrap around the item at least once or twice. It sticks to itself to maintain the clamping force.

    o Cut the sticky end of a Postit off and use it as an external seam clamp.

  14. mbauer

    mbauer Cardstock Model designer

    For Big and Long Sections of rolled tube, try using a chair back & table top to create a "bridge foundation". Place several wraps of double-sided tape along the wood dowel bridge (1/2" or larger). Do one complete wrap of the tape around the dowel and some extra so they stay on the wood. Spacing these wraps every 3" along the dowel for really long projects.

    -Just place your tube piece on the dowel pressing where there is double sided tape.
    -Choose an end and glue a short section of the joint (1/4" long). Press firmly down on the dowel until it sets (about 10-15 seconds using a very thin line of Wiccoll glue).
    -Then glue the whole joint at once, so, that it stays aligned in one direction, not from glue run to glue run. Use one hand to align/hold the far end, start at the end that is already glued and press down firmly with all of your fingers spread press down along the dowel to the far end. Make sure to keep the alignment straight as you go!

    I even use a short section of 1"x2"x8"L to press firmly with pressure after the first intial pressing, just press and move with slow even pressure to the far end. 2-passes and the part is done!

    Since the double-sided tape is spaced along the dowel, the gaps between the wraps make it easy to pop the finished tube free!

    If the tape stops sticking in one area from to much use, just roll the dowel to another new spot of tape. Building lots of big proto-types, this is the only way to maintain your sanity!

    Doing big cones takes a different approach though...

    Definition of big in this case is models over 5' long that are designed to fly.


    Working on a V1 "Buzz" Bomb-60" Long, 46" wingspan.
  15. jyduchene

    jyduchene Member

    What everyone else has said. I found Scotch brand tape with a "post It" type glue on the back it is made to release. I have found that a couple of loops of this will hold a tube in place and is the perfect thing for attaching Fiddlers Green cockpits to the body of the aircraft while the glue dries. Also my fingers with patients has worked when nothing else will. John
  16. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Try Aleene's Tack It Over & Over. It's a PVA glue that stays tacky like a PostIt note. Make a strip the length of your intended cylinder. Spread the Tack It on one side and let dry. Preform the cylinder with its backing strip. Use the Tack It strip on the outside of the seam to keep it closed while it dries. You can make really tight seams this way.

  17. sakrison

    sakrison Member

    We always found that a roll of duct tape and a dark closet were more than adequate.
  18. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    I use mostly the clamping tweezers that the other members have shown. However from your question I think that you may be using too much glue. The formula for drying time of white glue increases by the cube of the amount used so if you use twice as much glue it will take 8 times longer to setup. If you are asking yourself if are using enough glue then it is still to much. When you are using the minimum amount of glue required the setup time is quite fast 10 to 20 seconds. I have found myself in the situation of just pressing the parts together and noticing that the alignment is off and the parts are already setup and I can’t get them apart.

    The above formula is just BS but it gets the point across.

    Jim Nunn
  19. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    I usually find locking tweezers quite useful, but in case they are not, fingers are my best option :D
  20. john wagenseil

    john wagenseil New Member

    the ultimate holding tools are small ceramic magnets. they come in variety of shapes, and turn up in surplus stores, industrial supply houses, 99 cent stores, at science mail order houses, ect. Use a iron baking sheet as buildsing surface and magets as need to hold things together. small iron bits and piece can be put inside model and clamped with magnet outside model to get pressure in otherwise impossible places. Use cheap weak ceramic magnets. the ultra strong ones will not let go and might teat paper or pinch fingers.

Share This Page