Thinner for Floquil

Discussion in 'Weathering Forum' started by Dave Harris, Oct 22, 2008.

  1. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

    I finally found some real ( semi Real?) Floquil at a LHS.
    It apparently is a bit different formulation from what they made a number of years back as it is now compatible with plastic. The lhs did not know if it could be thinned with anything but Daiasol , but thought it might be ok with some other type thinner . The reason I'm looking for a different thimnner is that he said it's nearly impossible to get the Quart size of Daiasol now & the stuff costs over 1000 dollars a gallon in 1 oz bottles!!
    Anybody know if other thinners will work? I don't want to find out by producing a bottle of cottage cheese with the wrong stuff. Thanks.
  2. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Dave: If it's plastic compatible Diosol probably won't work; it's not plastic friendly.

    I think we debated this a few years ago. I forget the outcome.
  3. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

    Well . thats a start. I don't plan to use it on plastic anyway. I hope somone remembers the outcome.
  4. bob2008

    bob2008 New Member

    Thinner is a 1996 horror film directed by Tom Holland and written by Stephen King, Michael McDowell and Tom Holland.
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  5. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

  6. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    First, they no longer carry traditional Floquil dio-sol in large tins at my hobby shop. A few years ago I recall Floquil's "Air brush thinner" and now it is just Testor's airbrush thinner which is specifically stated as being for Floquil as well.

    Second, I think it has always been plastic friendly for air brushing. I have never had a problem air brushing Floquil on plastic (and neither did my father 25 years ago). Floquil was supposed to cause trouble if you brush painted, but I never had a problem with it.

    Floquil has reformulated a few things over the years...including the actual colors. Some of the colors listed on the old Floquil color charts for Colorado (compiled in the '60s or '70s) are no longer the same colors.

    I've used Dio-sol, Floquil airbrush thinner, and Testors airbrush thinner in the past year and I see no difference in the performance...I use a Paasche VL and a compressor.

    As for thinning in general...It doesn't need to be Dio-sol...never has needed to be. The principle behind paints is simple: you have some sort of solvent to dissolve your paint pigment...this solvent may be water or an organic solvent. The solvent will evaporate and leave behind just the pigment. In order to thin it, you just add more of that type of solvent. Floquils have always been organic solvent based could probably thin them with acetone. Since the pigments are usually organic, organic solvents are historically easier to make. You can always recognize solvent based paints by the nasty smell the produce while volatilizing...that's the solvent. The movement towards water based paints eliminates the side affects of the VOCs, but their are trade offs (I won't put anything but solvent based paints in my airbrush...and my ruined old airbrush agrees).
  7. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

    Thanks NKP , I've got acetone . I'll give it a try. It seems to me I remember trying to clean brushes after using the old Floquil (25 years ago) with regular paint thinner & it turned to a gummy mess , which is why I then used dioasol from then on. I'll let you know how acetone works.
  8. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    Just be sure to use a little at a time...dio-sol might be diluted.
  9. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    And stay away from open flames while using adequate ventilation. :thumb:

    It's funny - back when I did scratch built fantasy modeling, I made my own "liquid plastic" by dissolving sprue in acetone. It worked extremely well for modifying figures, filling gaps in models and a host of other uses, since it left behind exactly the same plastic as the model once it hardened. It could even be roughly cast.
  10. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    That's pretty much all that Testor's styrene cement in the triangle containers is...plastic dissolved in the clear stuff (which is just an organic solvent which volatilizes slower than acetone). I'd guess yours was quite a bit cheaper than Testor's :mrgreen: I've thought about making my own to save money...perhaps if I really get into large scale stuff...
  11. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    It was a lot thicker, too. The consistency of the stuff I made was slightly softer than creamy peanut butter. Great crack filler and figure modifier stuff. I just put a glob where I needed it and smoothed it into place. Fauirly decent 'working time', so I could kind of mold and sculpt it as it gradually hardened, and then let set until morning, by which time the stuff was indistinguishable from the plastic in the model itself - naturally, since it was the model's sprue that I used as the basis.

    The other advantage was that the material was always a perfect match to the original! Made painting and detailing a whole lot easier.
  12. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    Mountain Man, good modeling! I've never really thought about making it that would make a nice alternative to wood filler and JB weld...
  13. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    I've always used lacquer thinner to thin Floquil, both the original stuff and the current product. Not great for brush painting plastic, but no problem when airbrushing. I usually buy a gallon of it, then decant it into smaller containers, depending on what I'm using it for. I find that it's a great thinner for Floquil, Scalecoat (not Scalecoat II), Dullcote and Glosscote, Testors Model Masters paints, SMP Accupaint, and Humbrol enamels. It also makes an excellent solvent cement for styrene and a thinner for contact cement, as well as a plastic prep for styrene when used in conjunction with contact cement. Of course, good for cleaning brushes and airbrushes, too. :-D Cheap, too! ;):-D:-D

  14. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

    Dr Wayne --- I KNEW I could depend on you for the full answer!! Thanks!!

    I don't do a lot of airbrushing on the junkyard cars anyway, don't want them to look showroom fresh. I thought the craft paint would work but it's nasty looking stuff & WON'T stick to metal worth a darn!
  15. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    Dr. Wayne, you always have excellent techniques. I agree with Dave, thanks for chiming in!
  16. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

    Hey , NKP -- you didn't do so bad yourself!! My thanks to ALL of you who helped. :yep:

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