The Orlik DH98 Mosquito

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by David H, Jan 24, 2007.

  1. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

    I'm agreeing with Johnnie, alot of great details.
  2. paper warrior

    paper warrior Member

  3. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

    I have a soft spot for the Mossie and this one is looking better and better.
  4. David H

    David H Member

    Mossie Bomb Bay

    Not much progress, a long hard week and lots to do today so I got early...

    Bomb bay: not too sure how much to fix before skinning? But thought some trial fixing was essential to be sure...

    This section could do with better instructions / drawings. I have mad one small mistake, rolling a very tight tube the wrong way, this spreads the blades that stupport the MGs breach. Four very tight tubes too long... trim them down.


    Attached Files:

  5. David H

    David H Member

    Busy day

    Well that's the "office" buttoned up. The outer skins are nearly ready, I hope they fit...

    The black is not so black under normal light


    Attached Files:

  6. David H

    David H Member

    Pete Tong

    It's all gone Pete Tong (90's slang for wrong!)

    On refection I would have doe this different...

    There were no meaningful guides to help place the inner cockpit skins, but logic dictates they must go where they must go, give a 1mm or 2mm, and be symmetrical.

    The outer skins to the rear of the cockpit are attached to formers and have to align with the hole for the main wing spar. There are also centre line markers to guide these. So they are OK.

    I am prepared to accept the excess white depth shown below is my fault... sorta, but cant go too far wrong here, the bombay doors are printed on the skins.

    The cone/section in front of the cockpit area was pre-roled and made up, as a second check on the skinning process.

    The forward outer cockpit skins, 19L and 19P were then presented and jiggled about to see if they would fit.

    If the cockpit scuttle is right then the cannon troughs are wrong... don't bother carving the recesses for the cannon muzzle troughs in the former, neither posioin matches these!


    If I can match the colour (help) I can print a fix and attach it. I have had a go but too blue.

    Grumble grumble... well I like a challenge chough chough chough (words sticking in throat).

    So where is the problem? Humm, I think it is the outer skins rather than the former which seems OK far as the forward section goes.


    PS It would have been better to cut the cannon trough-tray out along the printed panel lines and jiggle it to fit rather than have to print and match an extra bit.

    Attached Files:

  7. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

    This is bad, this is really bad.....
    I cannot believe that we have to deal with issues like that in a kit designed and published in the XXI century..............
    If you have a backup copy, maybe you can the segment apart and add some skin above the gun openings? This would keep the top of the segment intact....
  8. David H

    David H Member

    Well I should have bought that P61 after all...

  9. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

    Dang! I was hopeing this was one of the good ones. Did you make a backup copy as Mike said? Man I feel for you.
  10. David H

    David H Member

    Yes I have scanned it and have already tried a rough and ready splice, which does work.

    Question, how do I force the printer to match colours with the printed kit? Is it Empirical? E.G. Print reduce blue, print increase red... and so on until happy? Or will Photoshop/Coral Photo-thing be better at matching colour than viewers?

    I hope to have rear Fuselage section ready later on and make sure it fits...

  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Dang David, that's too bad.

    I went down the same road recently with attempting to splice in a scanned part, and it does seem to be just trial and error. I think most printer drivers should offer adjustments for intensity (or darkness), plus all the colors and maybe gray as well.

    I have found that (at least for my set up), I've always had to lower the intensity or the part is too dark.

    Good luck!
  12. josve

    josve Active Member

    Thats a too big error David!
    I wonder why they messed that up, since the betabuild was flawless?

    What I do to get a color that matches almost 100% is to take the kit with me to the local colorshop and they do a colorscan and make me 0,5 liters of waterbased paint that matches :)
    I do that with all my models since I'm colorblind and cant mix the color myselves.
    Every colorshop have such equipment.

    I know now I have to make a scan of my kit when it arrives!
    I really hope you can get it fixed!!
  13. Sumato

    Sumato Member

    Well we don't really know the Beta was flawless. I might have just been made to look that way. I know from experience designing it can be extremely diffucult to correct major errors like this furthur down the design process. It's just like building, in that mistakes are harder to correct long after you've kept on building over the mistake. It's really too bad. Maybe Orlik will make an update. I hope someone lets them know about this. (I suspect they already do, though)
  14. David H

    David H Member

    Hey guys it’s getting heavy.

    I am sure that there is a rational and logical explanation, I am not a superb builder like some of the guys here, so don’t go hanging Orlik just yet! I am still working my way up to adequate-good card modeler!

    However, I did think I was following a logical sequence… and working from the points which needed to be accurately placed to less crucial areas.

    Not much point if everything matches up at he cannon muzzles but is 1/4 inch out at the wing mount or cockpit!

    Attached Files:

  15. David H

    David H Member

    It will be sorted...

    Making some progress.

    But bed time.


    Attached Files:

  16. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

    Great fix and recovery, lots of luck with the rest!
  17. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Yes, that's looking just fine!

  18. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

    Drat...can't seem to see any of the pictures in this thread.:cry:

    Happens from time to time, not sure why. I refreshed the pages a few times and sometimes a pic or two pops up, but not always...stuff like this drives me crazy...well, okay, it's not a long drive, as those who know me already know, but it's annoying.

    I'm jealous of you who can see the pictures that go along with this build thread.....

  19. David H

    David H Member

    Hi Jim,

    I have no time for 'puters anymore. My Mac ibook does the Job, but the Del running Windows is less compliant!

    Less technology and more time to mangle paper!

    And thanks the rest of you guys for the support, I hope I have not butchered something somewhere when building the centre section frame work.

  20. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

    Card thickness does impact

    I think David's concern about his card thickness (1.3mm) may be justified, and could have contributed to this problem.
    I am fairly new to this pastime with no model completed at this time. After looking at the build of the Halinski Bf-109 in this forum I bought one and tried it. I created a good center framing and interior and then started skinning. Everything went well until I reached the cowling and I found that my front frame stuck out almost a mm too far. I needed to do some drastic surgery. I had used card stock that was around 1.3mm and I figured that if the designer liked less than 1mm that was my problem.
    I put the model aside and started the P-51D from Halinsky. The fuselage is done, and the wings framed - and everything fits like a glove. I laminated the card as per Golden Bear's instructions from Bristol Board. Two layers give me 0.8mm and one layer 0.45mm. This stuff is a dream to cut and everything fits so well.
    I can post pictures if anyone is interested.


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