Teach me please...

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by Dancooper, Mar 8, 2007.

  1. possm_23

    possm_23 Member

    i only use 110 ....no confusion,,,no questions,,........that makes it much simpler for us "redneck paper modelers"......lol:) :grin: and simpler for my wife when ask her to get me some paper from staples...lol:)
  2. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    Since you brought it up possm_23, how do I become a Good ole boy?
    (Redneck Paper Modeler)
  3. MOS95B

    MOS95B Member

    I would assume, the same way I did, edit your profile....

  4. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    DUH! I couldn't catch a DORKfish with a Korndog!
  5. MOS95B

    MOS95B Member


    I just happened to notice it when I signed up. Purely by chance...
  6. Dancooper

    Dancooper Member

    These technical terms are really complicated for a newbie to cardmodelling, what kind of tools are those dorkfish and korndogs ? :wink:
  7. MOS95B

    MOS95B Member

    OK, you want confusing?? I just got back from a real paper store (Anchor Paper). i just found out, even with being able to pick it up and hold it, weights of paper is con-fus-ing!!! I don't even remember right now what I bought. I just ket picking up sample pieces til I found one that felt right

    But, I got some 92 brightness something-or-other, that felt good for 8 bucks a ream....
  8. Dancooper

    Dancooper Member

    Ah, I believe I remember something from history lessons here, isn't it so that paper starts as a standard size that would be A0, being more or less the same size as a sheepskin, since paper replaced parchement wich was made from sheepskin ?
  9. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

    That sounds about right.

    A0 folded in half is A1, that folded in half is A2 and so on.
  10. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Y'all could be right............. it has to be some kind of ancient ritualistic process............because it sure does boggle the modern man mind!

    The really hard thing to understand is that the weight of one type of paper..........index, offset, bristol, etc.............. doesn't correspond on a one to one bases.

    And there in lies the confusion.......... if you just say I use 110# paper................ is that Index, Bristol, Text, ??? And these really are different.

    Here is a good site to start to learn:


    and here:


    and here:


    this is a cutting from the last site..................


    The many different types of paper each have their own special characteristics, allowing printers to have a unique paper solution for any particular printing job. It is always helpful to know the differences between the many papers available, even if paper type is not important to your purchase. Below are listed the most common types of paper, along with a description of each.

    BOND: This common paper is used in a wide variety of applications, from business forms to household stationery. It is a strong sheet used in most copiers and desktop printers in the form of 8 ½" X 11" 20lb standard copy paper. Another reason it is so common is that it absorbs ink well. This absorbency is due in part to the paper's cotton fiber content, which usually ranges from twenty-five to fifty percent. However, bond papers used in copy machines or fast laser printers usually lack this high cotton content because it can jam these machines easily.

    BOOK: Aptly named, this paper is found mainly in books. It is well suited for two-sided printing and is very durable as well as relatively inexpensive.

    BRISTOL: Originally produced in Bristol, England, this paper is a heavy, board-grade paper with a soft surface used, among other things, for catalog or paperback book covers. It is often manufactures by layering thinner papers together.

    COVER: Cover paper, also known as cardstock, is a heavy, stiff sheet which folds and resists damage well. Because of its durability, it is very common, used for folders, business cards, greeting cards, post cards and cook covers.

    INDEX: Index paper is stiff, inexpensive and absorbs ink well, making it the prime choice for index cards and business reply cards.

    NEWSPRINT: Newsprint paper is used almost exclusively for newspapers, because it is recycled and cheap.

    OFFSET: This paper is used in offset printing presses because of its ability to resist tearing in the large fast machines.

    TAG: Tag paper is dense and strong, used for store tags.

    TEXT: Text paper comes in many different colors and textures making it perfect for such applications as announcements and brochures.

    SPECIALTY PAPERS: These include rice paper and the ultra-thin onion skin paper, also known as tissue paper.

    The stiffness of paper depends mainly on the paper type. Most bond, book and text sheets are not very stiff. Tag and Bristol stocks tend to be stiffer, and index and cover stocks are made to be the stiffest. Stiffer papers are usually more durable and can be used for a wide variety of applications. Also, the grain of paper is often listed on the packaging. Paper is ultimately made from wood and has a grain just as wood does. The grain is simply the direction in which the fibers which make the paper tend to run. For example, 8 ½ x 11 paper packaged as having long grain, has fibers which run with the long edge of the paper. It is sometimes important to know the grain if you plan on folding the paper, because folding against the grain in a stiff sheet can cause the paper to crack. Many times, stiff stock that is meant to be folded, such as greeting cards, is pre-scored so it can be safely and easily folded.

    Some papers may be available with a special coating which smoothes out the surface of the paper, reducing bleeding and making colors shine brighter. While several coatings are put on papers, ranging from clay to enamel, the most common is a heavy, high gloss chemical coating for specialized inkjet papers. This coating does not allow as much ink to soak into the sheet as would normally, so colors sit on top and look much better. Bond papers and cover papers are the prime candidates for this treatment, which can give a normal inkjet printout the boost it needs for true photographic quality.

    The sites I have listed are very good and will explain stuff way better then me...............

    Again the really hard thing to understand is you can not just say I use 110# and not also state the paper type.....................


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