T-Trak? Is it vaporware?

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by medelman, Dec 20, 2004.

  1. medelman

    medelman New Member

    I had posted a few weeks back about building a layout on a door and because of some circumstances I just don't have the room until I move into an apartment without a roommate or with my girlfriend after were married someday. Whichever comes first. [​IMG] Regardless, I have been reading about the N-Track module system, but more importantly the T-Trak ideas. My question is that it seems like people are still "working" out their differences and trying to get working standards together and I was just wondering if it's too early to build modules in this format? Is it going to fade away? I figure it would be a great way to start and I would love to be able to connect them to other people in a group, but which way is the right way you know? Since they are nice and small, I figure it would be a great way to learn about modeling and being able to super detail each one, but at the same time connect them and run a nice Zephyer if I decide to make that purchase [​IMG]. Can anyone share their thoughts? I've seen a few examples of people's layouts on the web. Does anyone know if a group in the Southeastern Milwaukee Area?

    Thanks for the advice!


  2. brakie

    brakie Active Member

    Matthew,Is there a T track group in your area? If so pay them a visit and see how the standards stand as of now.I would hesitate in building a T Track modular till I
    got all of the information I need then proceed with building the modular.
  3. ttrakertom

    ttrakertom New Member


    I just searched the web and found this site on T-Trak. I know that you posted this last year, but I do have some answers if you have not started something else.

    Go to T-Trak.org and print the download of the drawings/specs. Use the alternate spacing instead of the original standard. This spacing allows paralell curves, space to run long cars and engines and larger radius curves.

    I cut my sides to the full height of 2-3/4" and use 1/2" X 5/8" trim strups dropped down the depth of the base material. I use the 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood only for the sides (be sure to cut these with the grain lengthwise) and use Laun for the base material. With this method, the base can be set at a lower height, down to 5/8" of the bottom to allow for rivers, creeks, dry gulches, bridges and terrain below the 2-3/4" sides.

    Use the 2" X 2" blocks in the corners but be sure to cut them shorter and to drill them the level bolt hole all the way through them. I use 2-1/2" all thhread bolts and allow for a little higher scenery at the top of the corners. Our club found some all threads with a flat round head that work great for legs. Use the screw in inserts or tee nuts adhered to the blocks. Set the blocks up from the bottom to allow the heads to not extend below the bottoms.

    The Kato track works great. You do have to assure that the track connectors aleign properly, by running your finger across the top of the rail. This happens after numerous connections of the modules.

    Look in the photo section of the T-Trak.org site and you will find the Waynesville Cub Scout Modules and the Eliada Homes Hobo Modules. I worked with the club to get this project started in Asheville, NC. A great way to share the hobby with others and at times to have space to work and setup the modules. I would build four corners first and then add the straights, junctions, and transition modules to allow older standard modules be be added in a setup (four of these should be used. I would use doubles or 1 and 1/2 size modules for the transitions using flex track between the Kato ends.

  4. Catt

    Catt Guest

    WOW! This is embarassing as I am a co-mod of this forum an N scaler and a TTRAKer. :oops: This is the first time I've seen this thread. Here's a link to our last show http://nara.11.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=99 I have more pics of the layout if anyone is interested.
  5. ttrakertom

    ttrakertom New Member


    What area of the country are you from, without being specific.

    I am in Bluefield, WV right now. Did live in Burnsville, NC.

    Check out the photos at T-Trak.org. There is a number of new ones from the Eliada Homes Hobos and WNC Model Railroad Club of which I am a member.

  6. Catt

    Catt Guest

    I'm in West Michigan.The city I live in has the nickname (among locals) of Sliver City for all the furniture factories that used to be here.We were "The Furniture Capitol of The World".

    I haven't been to TTRAK.org in way to long .It's about time for a visit I think.
  7. ttrakertom

    ttrakertom New Member


    What modules have you built? Are you involved in a club or with friends.

    I am building two non-standard modules with the 33mm spacing. The modules are double the size of the old standard. I was not trying to do this out of line, but to get a minimun radius of 19" for modern equipment. They will fit any 33mm straight moudles or junction modules out there. The junction modules would have to be back to back in a oval formed by the large cormers. This way they can join with any T-Trak-N layout at shows, etc. Two tables back to back would be required to use them though.

    Right now, parts of the modules are in NC and the rest in WV. I am going to try to gather the other parts by three weeks.

  8. Catt

    Catt Guest

    I have 3 doubles ,1 quad,the inside corner you see in my link and 2 standard modules.Current plans are to widen all of my modules to a depth of 12".I am hoping to eventually convince the rest of the group to follow along.

    Two of my doubles and the quad along with the inside corner are actually a set with the inside corner and the quad being set at the 33mm track spacing.Two of the doubles are conversion modules to be used on either side of the corner and/or quad.

    My club "Iron RailZ" has been concidering making our own tables with a width of 36".The thought is if we do this we can do larger raduis curves for the end loops which in turn would allow larger cars and/or longer trains.
  9. ttrakertom

    ttrakertom New Member


    My corners are 24-1/2" square. Hence the need for two tables. It would be better for me to build two 24" tables. You could buy the legs or salvage them and use 3/4" ply tops. The tops could be drilled or cut with holes to remove as much weight as possible with Luan glued to the top to fill the gaps.

    I would like to build two juntions, two inside cormers, and two more large corners. With this width it would be easy to build a yard using tripple modules with a depth of 24" or they could be 30" deep with a slope on the front.

    The Cub Scout Modules are 12" deep and the Eliada Home Hobos Modules are 11" deep (That was my mistake. Didn't measure them before designing the first Eliada Home Modules.)


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