Super Glue

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by jrts, Aug 23, 2004.

  1. jrts

    jrts Active Member

    Hi all

    Some time ago while I was building Yamato I posted a photo that had a bottle of super glue in it. A few guys asked what it was and about the tip.

    Well this how I make them so the glue goes where I want it without sticking your fingers together.

    The tubes used are polyethelyne (PE 60) low density plastic.
    The first photo also shows my finger cut to bits, don't try to cut anything while your kids are around this is the result owwwwwwwwwwww.

    Cut the tubes into 4inch lengths and with a lighter heat up the tube until one end drops and very quickly pull the other end until the tubes gets the shape shown, hold for a bit to let it cool cut in half and you have to applicators. god my spelling is crap :lol:

    This can be done for any size nozzel. The last photo shows the one I just made fitted to the bottle and another with a much finner tip for very small parts and getting into hard places to reach.

    Hope this helps


  2. cardfan

    cardfan Member

    Great idea, I hate spending extra for those at the local hobby den. I will fit one bottle just for that purpose.

    And not to change the subject, but I read recently that leaving your bottle of CA open, yes open will prevent it from hardening. It seems that an oxygen starved environment (not bad on only one cup of coffee) will cause it to go bad.

  3. j77ason

    j77ason New Member

    I use PVA glue for all of my card modelling. It is water based and dries very quickly with a strong joint. I edge glue all parts - I cut off all tabs. I build in thicker card internally, to make my models a lot stronger, especially for final finish and to stop warping.
    Use only enough PVA glue as you would find on the back of a wet postage stamp - all surfaces to be glued.
    Funny story - I bought the Nichimo Yamato (plastic kit) 15 years ago and assembled it in the evenings after work.
    Well, it was winter then and I had the gas fire on and the model was in the room but not close enough to the fire to be a problem - or so I thought.
    Next morning I lifted my model up to put it somewhere and noticed the whole of the side exposed to the fire had melted - just like a candle - but the hull was OK, that was made of fibreglass.
    Oh well, I did the next best thing - In fury I broke the model up into little pieces and stuffed it all back into its box and hid it up the back shed - then I had an attack of the guilts and stuck it all back together - but I eventually traded it off for something.
    Give me card any day - now I've got a 1/200 Halinsky Yamato 9/92 to build sometime - the only thing which puts me off is the grey colour scheme - Hmmmm
  4. Behnt

    Behnt New Member

    I am new here so please be patient with me. I have noticed on several conversations where photos are mentioned but I see no links nor photos? below it is mentioned "The first photo also shows my finger cut to bits" and "he last photo shows the one I just made".... where are these photos? A picture if worth a thousand words, right?


  5. Behnt

    Behnt New Member

    Gahhhh!!!!! after I posted this the photos came through???? Sorry to bug you guys....



    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy guys,

    Yes cyno-acrylate esther (super glue) "sets up" when deprived of Oxygen. Thats why you have to clamp some parts together or have smoothe surfaces.
    BUT........this quality can be used to your advantage too, maybe not so much with paper models, although I am sure someone will try it.
    If you are having a hard time joining two parts, no matter what the material, while using super glue, you can use the heat/smoke from a lit cigarette, or the stream of butane gas from a disposable lighter to cause the glue to set up quickly. But never an open flame, super glue is highly flammable. All you are tryin to do is remove the oxygen from the area glued, thus causing it to set up.

    anyway, just something i learned with plastic kits, have a good day all,

  7. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I don't think so - cyano acrylate esters polymerise in the presence of water
    vapour. Remember they were originally developed for surgical uses - a glue
    which sets on wet surfaces was essential. Your heat techniques might speed
    up the setting but probably no better than breathing on the glue joint.


  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Keep CA's stored in a sealed container with a fresh pack of silica gel to extend the useful shelf life of the product. Also buy it in small enough quantities so that most of it gets used before it becomes unuseable.

    Charlie, be careful or else Maurice will get you on how and what CA's were originally invented for..., and it's wasn't for surgical uses either. Guess how come I know the answer...,

  9. mikew

    mikew Member

    In many cases you won't see pictures unless you are logged in. When you posted your message, you had to login, and voila! Some time later you may find that your login has "fallen out" and you can no longer see pictures in threads.

    If you set your login to automatic you should be able to see all the pictures which are inline, and it will not "forget" that you are logged in and start dropping pictures, etc.

  10. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I couldn't remember what CA was originally used for - that's why I said
    "developed" rather than invented. I have a vague recollection the original use wasn't as an adhesive though - please enlighten us.


  11. Janusz

    Janusz Member

    Hello everyone
    There is a useful tip I would like to share: The best way to store CA is in a perfectly closed container in the fridge - this way it is safe from humidity (I agree on the water Charlie) and at the same time it is cold enough so the setting reaction doesn´t occur. In this way it is possible to store it for years.

    Best regards

  12. Janusz

    Janusz Member

    One more observation - the setting CA produces heat,
    it doesn´t consume it so You can not accelerate setting by heating.

  13. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Do Not Put CA in the Refrigerator by itself! This is a myth that has been perpetuated via the internet. The polyethylene bottles are fairly permeable to water vapor and the refrigerator is actually a great place for water vapor to condense on the CA bottle through the repeated opening of the refrigerator which just admits more humid air for condensation. This is one of the reasons automatic defrost is such an attractive feature. If you do put it in the refrigerator make sure it's inside a sealable metal container that's impervious to moisture. Lowering the temperature will slow the deterioration rate but only if it's without moisture.

    Take a little CA and make a puddle. Spray some water on it and watch what happens...,

    Charlie, the following is off the net but is a fair summary of how CA was invented:

    Superglue or Krazy Glue is a substance called cyanoacrylate that was discovered by Dr. Harry Coover while working for Kodak Research Laboratories to develop an optically clear plastic for gunsights in 1942. Coover rejected cyanoacrylate because it was too sticky.

    In 1951, cyanoacrylate was rediscovered by Coover and Dr Fred Joyner. Coover was now supervising research at the Eastman Company in Tennessee. Coover and Joyner were researching a heat-resistant acrylate polymer for jet canopies when Joyner spread a film of ethyl cyanoacrylate between refractometer prisms and discovered that the prisms were glued together.

    Coover finally realized that cyanoacrylate was a useful product and in 1958 the Eastman compound #910 was marketed and later packaged as superglue.


    P.S. Nice technique Rob!
  14. Janusz

    Janusz Member

    Hi Gil
    First of all you probably didn´t noticed the expression: in a perfectly closed container... or maybe I should have been more explicit - I personally use a jam jars perfectly closed.
    Second I personally can atest it is not a myth: by living in Mexico it is really difficult for me to get a gap filling super glue, I only get it from the States, so I ussualy keep several bottles in a closed jar in the fridge, some of them lasted seven years or so when kept unopened.


    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy guys,

    Well I dont mean this as a retraction, but only to clear up something I said, I know I said the heat from a lit cig, I should have been more clear and stated the heat and/or smoke from a lit cig or the gas stream of butane from a disposable lighter, both deprive the glue of oxygen and will cause the glue to set up. If the glue is heated, it will either catch fire or begin making fumes. But the lack of oxygen from the smoke or butane gas will cause the glue to crystalize and set up.


    Dont inhale the fumes if heated.
  16. 46rob

    46rob Member

    Why not just go ahead and buy a spray bottle of accelerator when you buy your CA? I apply CA to one surface--accelerator to the other and INSTANT GRAB. Great for fiddly little parts that have to be held with tweezers or for when you don't have a third hand. I use lots of CA when I test build my home made designs, because I'm in a hurry and only want to test the fit. Accelerator rules on my bench.

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy Rob,

    But....but....but.....anyone can do it that way lol, thats almost like following instructions or askin directions, it goes against us guys nature according to the wimmin folk hahahahaha.

    Greg aka GW
  18. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Has anyone tried Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) dissolved in water? I haven't tried this but remember that many of the balsa modelers were using this as a cheap accelerator.

    Janusz, just wanted to make sure everyone understood that refrigeration in a home fridge required the CA be protected by a vapor barrier as you stated.

    Using the two part system for insta-sticking parts is a great idea.

  19. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Gil, as far as I remember from my balsa building days, there was also the trick of filling gaps with potato meal (starch, essentially), and then saturate it with CA. Made the joint possible to sand with good result. Same thing with two-component epoxy. Mix it with potato meal and you get a good filler which is possible to sand. - L.
  20. 46rob

    46rob Member

    problem with using anything water based as an accelerator in that the water will warp the paper.

Share This Page