Streets for automobiles

jon-monon

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Originally posted by sumpter250


No, Gary, you're not the only one. I believe in supporting my local hobby shop, and online buying would be unfair competition for the shop. I will only buy those things that a hobby shop can NOT get for me, online, or at a "basement" dealer.

I was the opposite, never bought local, until that guy at the LHS gave me a walthers catalog. Dirty trick :mad: :mad: :mad: I haven't mail ordered since :mad: :mad: :mad: I will still mail order some stuff, but the savings must be beeeg.
 

aartwmich

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Neophyte kneels and prays....

to the modeling gods....I see I have a Loooong way to go to before posting any more of MY modeling pics here!!

You all are awesome and I aspire to creating anything half as good as I've seen here..my hats off to you!!
 

davidstrains

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Re: Neophyte kneels and prays....

Originally posted by aartwmich
to the modeling gods....I see I have a Loooong way to go to before posting any more of MY modeling pics here!!


AArt...
I am not the forum owner but you should not be ashamed to post any of you photos here (unless they are non-model railroad associated:D). That is what the forum is for - to share, learn and teach. If no one sees what you are doing it is hard to visualize a suggestion that might help you.

So again, post away!!!
 

aartwmich

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OK Dave, you're absolutely right..I'm just so impressed and overwhelmed by the fine work I see here...and I'm laughing at myself for using coal sized ballast on a piece of HO track for an asphalt road. Granted it was an experiement..... maybe I'll build something one day and share it here. Right now I'm getting dads old set running again.

I was wondering, does dust and cobwebs on one of dads old models count as weathering??? LOL Just kidding!!!

Heres a neat pic of dads kitbuilt Bowser K-11, circa 1950
 

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Gary Pfeil

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Hey Arttwmich, I was wondering what was in that Bowser box in your first photo. Nice, is that the NYC Pacific?

Val, I know what you mean about building the leg assembly without having checked its height. I did the same thing on the bridge I used for my contest entry last month. Here is photo of the bridge which inspired the scene in the first place. I knew I was going to build it higher than the prototype, because I wanted to have a lead to an industry cross the street. So I went ahead and built the kit and used its dimensions to determine the height of the track crossing above the street. I could have gotten away with building it quite a bit lower if I had paid more attention! I will be adding more details to my bridge, such as steps to a paaenger platform up top and the wood railing, and what appears to be a piece of plywood used to keep ballast/cinders off the pedestrians heads.
 

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TR-Flyer

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Hi Aart:
When this tread started i think you were asking about ways to create temporary roadways for your friend’s O gauge layout. It's since turned into a discussion of some REALLY nice scale techniques. Kudos to all of you for the lovely work.

If you're still interested in the hi-rail approach, here's a pic of my S gauge module, with some hastily applied "snow" to make it a "holiday" layout, showing the "roofing" roadway i've added to the unit. It’s easy to do and will lay on carpet just fine. I’m getting ready to cut some more for my Christmas layout laid out on the floor of our library.
Regards,
Ted
 

TR-Flyer

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This one shows a little more......

Please forgive the "snowdrift" The GG-1 we were running "plowed it up just before i took the pic.
 

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Gary Pfeil

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TRflyer, You're quite right, we did stray a bit didn't we? But I was encouraged! Just one more post back to our strayed to topic. I thought rather than have to search for the contest photo to compare teh proto photo to, I would post teh shot here. Then I thought why not reshoot the scene without the local down below and with the bus in the photo instead. Couldn't do that for the contest since the background isn't finished. THEN I thought, I have an Erie loco I built 25 years ago in a box somewhere, why don't I find it and use it in the photo. Well, a half hour later I found it and went ahead and reshot the scene. Now I'm really bummed because the bridge is WAY high! But like you Val, it is going to stay that way! BTW, that's an Athearn 2-8-2 in the background, sans boiler and tender shell. Installed sound and wanted to balance weight but wasn't able to. Pulls 12 cars up my 1 1/2% grade, it'll have to be good enough.
 

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TR-Flyer

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Hey Boys & Girls:
I'm not complaining, Stray On! Love the photos. They're one of the best features about this board. You don't have to go to a separate place to look at the pictures. Just mix 'n match.

"I love to go, a wan-der-ing......
Ted
 

marty w.

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WOW! Nice pic's everyone.
Gary - the last one is great. It seems you have captured the prototype look rather well. Also like the choice of road.
BTW - Joe Lofland is comming out with a Dunmore Caboose resin kit this month.
Marty
 

Gary Pfeil

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Val, I used brass photetched truss type girders by K&S Engineering. The diagonal bracing section comes attached to a solid section by perforations. I assume it is meant to be bent into half of a box girder. I simply cut the solid section off, filed the edge, and glued styrene strip to form a (I think) plausible structural shape. One of these at each end runs the full length from corner to corner, the other is two sections butted up against the first. I made the gussets from thin styrene (10 or 15 thousanths) trimmed to shape and embossed rivits with a ponce wheel. Fact is they're not that great, but I'm improving. They represent my first riveting attempt.

Marty, thanks, I knew you'd like that road!

Gary
 

davidstrains

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AArtwmich,

See what happens when you ask a question? Not only do you get help with possible solutions, you also get tutorials on doing other support work as well? Hang in there guy. The Gauge folks will have you up and running in no time:) :) :)

BTW Gary and Val, your use of a simple street scene (bridge structure, bus, cars, pedestrians et. al.) is really impressive. I hadn't thought about that part of the layout yet but I am now. I just need to get to work on the scenery so that I can try some of the things you guys are doing. Great camera work:) :) :)
 

spitfire

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Originally posted by Gary Pfeil
Val, I used brass photetched truss type girders by K&S Engineering. The diagonal bracing section comes attached to a solid section by perforations. I assume it is meant to be bent into half of a box girder.

Interesting. I tried to do the same thing with a plastic kit for building box girders. The sections are L-shaped and fix together to make the "box". I thought if I cut off the extra bit I could have what I wanted but unfortunately the cutting causes the plastic to bend and warp. :( :( :(

I found these beauties (pic below) at: http://www.cryergrayfoundry.com
Sadly, there are no HO scale ones yet, however they do have a CAD-generated diagram that I'm planning to scale down as use as a template. Check it out!

cheers
:D Val
 

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spitfire

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Well, Gary, I have a plan for those rivets.

I don't really need any rivets on the I-beams, since the bridge I'm modelling doesn't seem have them there. What it does have are the joiny bits at the top and bottom and middle of the X. (gusset plates?)

I thought I could print the drawing, to scale, then use it as a template. I'd lay it over a sheet of styrene and press through the paper with my new rivet-making tool - a ballpoint pen. Mark the edges of each piece with a sharp knife, then cut out the individual pieces, attach, weather and Voila!

I'll let you know if this actually works!

cheers
;) Val
 

Gary Pfeil

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Val, If you go to page 3 of this forum and find the thread "Other photos taken during contest shoot" or something similar look at the third photo there, it shows my gusset plates pretty closeup. I think a ponce wheel set would be a good investment for you, you can find them in the Micromark catalog. Good luck!

Gary