Starting my layout!

green_elite_cab

Keep It Moving!
Go Big1 said:
I am getting close (probably about 2 months out) to starting my first ever layout (I am a total newb to all this), and am right now designing some possible layouts for a 4x8 layout similar to yours. I like how you have an inner and outer loop, but am wondering what radius's you have on that inner radius? It seems that if you keep radius's at 18 degrees or larger, you cannot get that inner turn. Is that a 15 degree radius turn you are planning?

its actually not "degrees" but inches.

it goes like this

15 Inch curves have a diameter of 30 inches, 18"R = 36" , 22R"=44" and so on so forth. degrees is usually how far along the curve goes. before it straightens out again.

I would not reccomend 15 inche radius because almost nothing will run on it or look good. His track plan seems to be using 22 on the outer and 18 on the inner curves.
 

jr switch

Member
Oh, bye the way Green Cab, I go back and check the photos you have posted from time to time and I like what you have done with your layout. Looks great! John R
 

green_elite_cab

Keep It Moving!
jr switch said:
Oh, bye the way Green Cab, I go back and check the photos you have posted from time to time and I like what you have done with your layout. Looks great! John R

thanks! I'll bet yours will come out nice as well!
 

wickman

Member
green_elite_cab said:
alot of people put the cork down, and when they are laying the track, they drill holes straight through both the cork and table, and slip the wires through there. You only need to cut out channels in the cork if for some reason you didn't already do this.
Yep thats what I did and works just fine. Once the track rails and ties along with the ballast are all dirtied up you'll have to search for the wires.:wave:
 
I have a question about the under table switch machines, how long are the picks that actually move the track itself. I feat my foam is too thick...

My foam + foam = 1.5 inches exactly thck...

Will the pick on the switcher reach all the way up? (not to mention through another fraction of an inch from the roadbed...
 

Russ Bellinis

Active Member
It depends on what switch machine you are using. If you are using a twin coil switch machine, it probably won't reach; but if you use Tortoise switch machines, you use a piece of piano wire and can make it as long as you need.
 

Amrap1

Member
Try this link:
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/bench48.html
(despite what it says, I think most put the legs in the corners - I did!)
Good luck!

I agree! You got to have a stable bench. Use 2x4's for legs and 1x4 braces. After looking at several layout construction tutorials, most look similar to this:

Benchwork.jpg


On a 4x8 layout it shouldn't cost more that $20 for the 2x4's and 1x4's! I do like the idea of the metal table legs...if there was another set closer to the middle. Plus, you can add shelves for storage under a wood framed bench.

Ed
 

Russ Bellinis

Active Member
prodigy2k7 said:
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/Merchant2/images/fullsized/FS150/lg150-65.jpg
I was planning on getting something like that.. The tortoise is expensive isnt it? like 20-30 bucks

With that type of switch machine, you can't mount it under the table completely. What I would do is hollow out a "box" in the foam under any switches. It would be best to use flex track on either side of the all switches, so that you can carve out space to slide the rail joiners all the way back to allow removal of the switch in case you need to replace the switch motor. After the switch machine is mounted in the box, cover it with a piece of styrene and put the switch over it. You will need to cut a slot into the styrene under the spot where the actuator rod comes up to work the switch. Glue down your flex track on both sides of the switch and just put the switch in and let it float between the tracks. You could also make a box out of styrene to mount the switch mahcine in with the hole cut in the foam for the box. When making the "box" under the track, cut out a little and check it for clearance, then cut out a little more, and so on until it is at the right depth. One trick would be to get a piece of foam about 1/2 inch thick or so that is just the right size for the box depth, and then cut out a square in it before gluing it to the rest of the foam. After you glue it down, you have your box for the switch machine.
 
My foam isnt even glued, down, would it be easier to get thinner foam? lol...That sounds like a lot of work, especially if i have a lot of switches...

What is the max foam thickness i can use for the under table switchers? My 4x8 is 0.5 inches thick.
 

wickman

Member
prodigy2k7 said:
I have a question about the under table switch machines, how long are the picks that actually move the track itself. I feat my foam is too thick...

My foam + foam = 1.5 inches exactly thck...

Will the pick on the switcher reach all the way up? (not to mention through another fraction of an inch from the roadbed...[/quote
]
I just checked a couple of my un opened tortoise switches the rods are 3.25 inches long.
I found this place http://www.cchobbies.com/track/peco.htm to be very well priced I purchased all my flex track and peco turnouts there. Most places are pretty competative for tortoise priceing and really there not the expensive part if you go the route I went and get stationary decoders thats where it gets a bit pricey. I wouldn't trade my tortoises for anything.:wave:
 
wickman said:
prodigy2k7 said:
I have a question about the under table switch machines, how long are the picks that actually move the track itself. I feat my foam is too thick...

My foam + foam = 1.5 inches exactly thck...

Will the pick on the switcher reach all the way up? (not to mention through another fraction of an inch from the roadbed...
I just checked a couple of my un opened tortoise switches the rods are 3.25 inches long.
I found this place http://www.cchobbies.com/track/peco.htm to be very well priced I purchased all my flex track and peco turnouts there. Most places are pretty competative for tortoise priceing and really there not the expensive part if you go the route I went and get stationary decoders thats where it gets a bit pricey. I wouldn't trade my tortoises for anything.:wave:
im sorry, whats a stationary decoder? comapred to ... the opposite of that lol
 

Russ Bellinis

Active Member
prodigy2k7 said:
My foam isnt even glued, down, would it be easier to get thinner foam? lol...That sounds like a lot of work, especially if i have a lot of switches...

What is the max foam thickness i can use for the under table switchers? My 4x8 is 0.5 inches thick.

I thought you said your foam was 5 inches thick. If it is 0.5 inches thick, and not yet glued down, cut out pockets for the switch machine and mount them on top of your plywood in the middle of the foam. The machine you showed is the Atlas under table switch machine, and I think the length of the actuator rod is about 1 inch if I remember correctly. As far as the length on the tortoise rod, I think you can make a new actuator rod with a piece of the right sized piano wire if you need it longer than what Tortoise provides.
 
Russ Bellinis said:
I thought you said your foam was 5 inches thick. If it is 0.5 inches thick, and not yet glued down, cut out pockets for the switch machine and mount them on top of your plywood in the middle of the foam. The machine you showed is the Atlas under table switch machine, and I think the length of the actuator rod is about 1 inch if I remember correctly. As far as the length on the tortoise rod, I think you can make a new actuator rod with a piece of the right sized piano wire if you need it longer than what Tortoise provides.

no no no lol
I made a typo...
My foam + wood = 1.5 inches exactly thck...
the foam is about 1 inch and the 4x8 board is about 1/2 an inch..

sorry

dang its only 1 hour? id rather have it under the table at easy access nothing to do with cutting foam, im an amature here i dont wanna do any of that lol..
 

wickman

Member
So if you prefer it under the table than no problem. You can see how I mounted them from under the table in my thread. And if I remember correctly I think I posted a step by step of how I mounted them. :wave:
The stationary decoder is what controls the tortoise , basicly on your hand held dcc controler you just punch in the address thats registered to a particular tortoise hit the close or thrown button an away she goes.
 
Im sorry, your talking about your new thread right? I skimmed through each page looking for anything under the table, I couldnt find any...
Can you tell me what post or what page its on?
 

wickman

Member
prodigy2k7 said:
Im sorry, your talking about your new thread right? I skimmed through each page looking for anything under the table, I couldnt find any...
Can you tell me what post or what page its on?
My apology's I had thought I had posted it I guess I hadn't but it is there now on the end of my current layout. Earlier in the thread you can see the stationary decoders I used for controling the tortoise switches.:wave:
 
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