star wars pepakura helmets

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by armecore, Feb 27, 2010.

  1. vulcan raven

    vulcan raven New Member

  2. Vortex_4200

    Vortex_4200 Member

    In that last set of pic's the middle one, was that a dark trooper?
  3. Socker_Suenl

    Socker_Suenl Junior_Smuggler

    Woow..., great Job.

    PM send ...

  4. Aussie Phantom

    Aussie Phantom New Member

    Love your work ...

    PM on the way!
  5. ennder

    ennder Member

    Very nice work. Can't wait to see more :)
  6. raulk000

    raulk000 New Member

    wow they look great!
  7. dredd

    dredd New Member


    very nice work i made a custom mandolorian using Wizard of flights templates the sameidea for on the way
  8. Chesso2001

    Chesso2001 New Member

    very good I think we will all need bigger shelves :)
  9. racerMachX

    racerMachX New Member

    The helmets looks great.
  10. Arsen NonLupin

    Arsen NonLupin New Member

    Any ideas how to make them more "solid"? Use papier mache and nitro-based paint?
  11. Aussie Phantom

    Aussie Phantom New Member

    There's lot's of ways...

    Lots of people use pepakura models for making pieces for costumes. The Halo community seems to lead the way but Star Wars cosplayers aren't far behind...

    The standard method is to reinforce everything with resin (polyester or epoxy) and then fibreglass the inside. Then shape and detail the outside with body filler. Prime Paint and wear! You need about 500g (1lb) of resin in to do a helmet this would set you back about $US20. You'd need about 1/2 sq.m (4-6 sq.ft) of the lightest Fibreglass that you can find (3-5 oz/sq.yd) preferrably fabric because conforms to sahpes more easily (less than $10)

    Armecore has used another method where he has essentially used the paper model as a mould and slush or rotor cast a layer of resin on the inside. Most people use polyurethane for this because it cures reasonably fast and generally doesn't need reinforcement (fibreglass) because it's less brittle and a little stronger than polyester or epoxy. It's also quite a bit more expensive - having said that it would still be no more than about $US40 - $US50 for enough to do a helmet.

    I've done test builds with paper mache and had mixed success. I was using PVA which contains water and because of this if I tried to work too fast the card model started to soften and lose shape. But once it was dry the result was pretty strong and light even with only 2-3 layers of 80gsm recycled copying paper and a bit of newsprint.

    But if you replace the PVA with something that doesn't contain water (I'm guess the nitrobased paint is a varnish) you shouldn't have this problem...

    I was considering using "oilbased" polyurethane floor sealing varnish simply poor it in, slosh it around to coat the interior surface then poor it out. Let dry and repeat. it wouldn't be a quick process but i'm guessing I could do 1 coat a day maybe 2 if it was warm. Working like decoupage, after 10 -15 coats you'd have a shell about 1mm thick and minimal material wastage. Of course you could mix in a bit of instant paper mache powder, talc etc. to build up the thickness faster but it might take longer to dry between coats.

    My last project was a rush job and so I went the glass epoxy route. I'm leaning to ward polyurethane slushcasting for my next project but I like the idea of it being made entirely out of paper...
  12. Paladin

    Paladin Member

    I don't know if you saw the in the forum on the 405th's site (Halo community & costuming) where there was talk, and a tutorial on another cheap and very inexpensive method of strengthening your armor suit. It is by using hot glue. You simply get and old pan, lots of hot glue sticks, and several cheap brushes, (use real hair brushes, because nylon, or sponge brushes will melt). You melt several glue stick at a time in the pan, then "paint" the glue on the inside of the armor.

    I myself, am in the middle of this process. I have already put one layer of glue on the inside, (using about 6 bags of 50count mini hot glue sticks- use the "high temp" variety) So far the armor is much more rigid, but still rather flexible. I also double layered the cardstock to make the suit a little stiffer to begin with.
    I figure one more layer will stiffen it up very nicely, and have a little flexibility. Another added thing to use, (which I have been doing), is to increase the thickness and help shape the outside using the standard "Mod Podge Gloss-Lustre" stuff. Looking at a bottle of it, it will tell you to use several layers to build up an item, then wet-sand afterward. I have'nt finished adding those layers yet.

    My cost for glue sticks was (6 bags of 50) @ $15.00, with another $15.00 for 6 more bags and using three of the 16oz bottles of the Mod Podge (at @ $6.00 per), with a bag of 6 real hair brushes from Lowes (@ $3.00 to $4.00) and cost of cardstock (@ $5.00 max for double laminating the pieces for the pepakura designed armor). I have @ $60.00 total, (with taxes), invested in the outfit. With painting and other little detailing, it should still be under $100.00 for aa completed Halo ODST costume. Now realize, I am using a pepakura design of the ODST costume from Halo 2. Why, because it was the one that was pretty much complete, and I didn't have to design any new pieces for the outfit. Going to their site, you will find a database for many, (and I do mean many), designs for helmets, and body armor pieces. The Halo 2 ODST was listed there with Helmet, shoulder pieces, upper & lower torso sections, and lower leg sections. I looked at many pictures of the character from the game, and that is all they had for armor. Now something I didn't mention was the underclothing. Some people, including myself, use old military uniforms for the pieces to attach to while wearing the armor. Lots of people have just used black "BDU" style clothes. A couple of people have used the older "woodland" camo BDU's, and one guy did his with "urban grey" BDU's. I am using "Desert" camo BDU's. I will certainly post a picture when I can of what I have now, and what I will have when completed.

    I hope this helps all you costuming enthusiasts. I really don't like working with fiberglass. I once built a small catamaran style outboard motor boat, (a real life size mind you, not a small model), and fiberglassed it. Once done I couldn't wait to get rid of it...... don't ask, I just got tired of working on it.
  13. Arsen NonLupin

    Arsen NonLupin New Member

    Thank for advises. Great. I'l try some methods. And do not write about price of work. Those helms are priceless :^) and overwhelming.
  14. jangoclone

    jangoclone New Member

    Those helmets are really cool, pm sent.
  15. papadavigi

    papadavigi New Member

    I made a spartan helmet four months ago, im looking forward to trying to make a stormtrooper any tricks or tips on how to make the paint look polished (like give it that shine) (I was thinking of coloring my resign.) that a big problem i have. I'm not a noob i made a predator biohelmet, and a green ranger helmet, just not too advanced in the areas of great painting jobs.
  16. Reaper326

    Reaper326 New Member

    da da da daa da daaa da da daa
    whoot tc6731
  17. azgard

    azgard New Member

    Very impressive, gonna have to make one for my son, he's a Star Wars fanatic... PM sent
  18. johndenord

    johndenord New Member

    Nice, yes ideal for homemade props
  19. Rapidtox

    Rapidtox Member

    Great work, when you upload the models?
  20. howdysmithy

    howdysmithy New Member

    looks like it paper mached!

Share This Page