Star Trek SS Aurora

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by sdk2knbk, May 7, 2006.

  1. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member

    Test Build Results

    Hey Scott,

    I finally finished the Aurora. Here she is (my camera is still on vacation - if you want better pics later I'd be happy to oblige - just let me know). Comments and suggestions follow the pics:


    Here are my comments and suggestions:

    On the instructions page you indicate parts H1/H1A, H2/H2A, etc. The H1A, H2A and H3A parts are only labelled H3, so you actually have two H1's, two H2's... I would suggest renaming these all H1 and H1A. H1/2/3 are all identical parts, as are H1A/2A/3A. Just indicate 3X.

    You also have a label for a part C1B near the top of the instruction page on the Top view. There's no such part.

    There were no tabs at the front of the engines. Edge gluing worked fine, but tabs would be very helpful.

    On Sheet 2, part C1 there are three white sections labelled H1, H2, H3. For clarity add text so it reads "Glue H1 Here", etc.

    Similarily on sheets 3 and 4, the parts H1/2/3 have C1 written in the middle of them. A casual glance reads this as "this is part C1". Again, add text "Glue to C1" for clarity.

    I think the red triangles on sheet 4 should simply be printed in the hull panels where they belong. All we are doing by having them separate pieces is transferring color from one place to another. It seems a useless step, and just leaves black build lines visible on the finished product. I mentioned this in a previous post and you commented that it was this way in the original model. I suggest you are not designing the original model, you're designing yours.

    If you insist on leaving it this way, make the red triangles slightly larger so you can cut the black line off the triangle, but still have it be large enough to cover the layout lines on the hull section.

    I also mentioned in a previous post about the one hull section not fitting properly - I'm sure this is due to a bit of twist in the main hull (C1). Careful alignment of this piece is required when gluing it so it's nice and straight.

    Parts E4A and E4B - same comment as above for H1/2/3 - these are identical parts - why not just call them all E4 and say build 14 parts by gluing pairs. Edge coloring is a must on these for nice results by the way.

    You could add a comment on Sheet 5 regarding the purpose of part E1A (the joining strip for the engine pod). A novice builder might not figure it out right away, and I think this model is an excellent one for novice builders to practice some techniques on.

    The only real problem I had was with the engine mounting arms. They don't build well - When I tried to get the bend in them they just broke on the "underside". Not sure if you can see what I mean in this pic but here it is anyway.


    I'd suggest making the arms in two parts along this line


    In the above, the flap on the upper side of what I've labelled "lower wing arm" would glue inside the "upper wing arm". The flap on the bottom part of the upper wing arm glues inside the lower arm.

    Other Build notes:

    When scoring and gluing the hull assemblies H1/H1A, H2/H2A, H3/H3A, be careful to socre nice straight, parallel lines, and start gluing with the shorter section of H1A/2A/3A. Glue one side first (both the shorter section and longer section) then glue the other side.

    That's it from me. The test build looks good enough for me - I'd say she's a keeper.

    Bye for now.
  2. sdk2knbk

    sdk2knbk Guest

    Whew! An extensive, detailed (and useful!) commentary! I'll need to review it further, and make the changes as needed. One comment I can address now. The problem you had with the engine mounts was probably because you assembled them flat. They were designed to have each half folded first, then joining them together, that keeps the split you mentioned from happening. I'll have to add a note to the instruction page. The triangles are a different story. I originally had those areas recessed, but decided against that. I guess it's just a matter of deciding what that surface would actually be like on a "real" version, textured, raised, depressed, or just a different color. For now I probably will just move the color to the main hull parts to simplify things. Your build looks good, nice to finally see one in color!

    Thanks much, Steve. I'll have to have you test some of my other designs (if they're subjects you're interested in and you have the time.)

  3. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member

    Your welcome Scott. I'm finding it's quite fun to help a new model come to life as it were. I'd be happy to assist with future developments, time permitting. I plan on getting real busy myself in the next little while. I'm still working with Gearz on the Galactica model and I've been poking away at building a paper model of the Seaview from "Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea". Between those two and building models on my to-build list I'll be plenty busy. Oh yeah, and then there's my other hobbies too. Damn! :???:
  4. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member

    Engine Mount re-test


    I re-printed that page and tried the assembly as you describe. I had originally tried your method but it wasn't working out, so I did finally just assemble it flat as you say. On trying again I've found that the edges of P1/P2/P3/P4 are all the same length. To assemble them properly the leading and trailing edges of parts P2 and P4 need to be shorter than the corresponding edges of P1/P3. Here's a picture:


    Shorten those edges by an amount about equal to the width of the flaps so the parts will fit inside the mating part allowing for the fold. If this isn't clear print that page and try it - you'll see what I mean.

  5. Kirok

    Kirok New Member

    The Tholian Web

    The Tholian interceptors are featured in the new episode from Starship Exeter "The Tressaurian Intersection" as can be seen from the web page that shows their prop models.:)


    Kirok of L'Stok
  6. eddieh38

    eddieh38 New Member

    Big thanks sdk2knbk great model

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