Some tips for dating models...

Discussion in 'Weathering Forum' started by doctorwayne, Mar 17, 2007.

  1. [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Thanks Wayne but now I've found this info and to save on shipping I want to order alot of the decal sets at one time even though I don't plan on using them for some time. I would like to know how long can you keep decals laying around before they go bad?
    The entire list of reweigh date sets:
    • 1930 to 1934, order HD-60 for HO
    • 1935 to 1939, order HD-61 for HO
    • 1940 to 1944, order HD-62 for HO
    • 1945 to 1949, order HD-63 for HO
    • 1950 to 1954, order HD-64 for HO
    • 1955 to 1959, order HD-65 for HO
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1960 to 1969, order HD-66 for HO[/FONT]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1970 to 1979, order HD-67 for HO
    [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]replacement load limits & light weights[/FONT]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]HD-70 for HO[/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]freight car mechanical data[/FONT]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]RR Roman for 1915 to 1930 era, 68 different actual lines. [/FONT]
      • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Order HD-54 for HO[/FONT]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Gothic lettering for 1915 to 1930 era, 68 different actual lines (both roman & gothic loading inst.) [/FONT]
      • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Order HD-55 for HO[/FONT]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]RR Roman for 1930 to 1960 era, 56 different actual lines[/FONT]
      • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Order HD-56 for HO[/FONT]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Gothic lettering for 1930 to 1960 era, 56 different actual lines (both roman & gothic loading inst.) [/FONT][/FONT]
      • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Order HD-57 for HO[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
  2. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    I have some Champ decals that are over 30 years old, and still useable, although these are alphabet sets. Some of the smaller data can break up when it gets old, but I'd guess that it should be good for at least 10 years. If you do run into problems with older decals breaking up, give them a spray of clear finish before using them, and be sure to let that spray dry completely before continuing.
    I'm curious as to why you're buying all of the reweigh date sets. Most freight cars, other than tank cars and live poultry cars, were reweighed every 48 months (every 30 months before 1948). There are some other exceptions and changes that occurred later, but in general, the 30/48 month limit would apply to most eras, meaning that if, for instance, you were modelling the early '60s, you wouldn't see reweigh dates from the '30s, '40s, or early '50s. On the other hand, if you're interested in doing different cars as representative of different eras, then by all means: after all, it is your railroad. ;):-D
    By the way, Champ also offers sheets of clear decal film, something that's always handy. The sheets are about 6 1/2"x10".

  3. Thanks for the decal tip that can save a night of model frustration.
    New questions: would the exterior and interior sizes be repainted if the original marking where covered say by rusting of the car?
    I'm not interested in buying all the different reweigh date sets, just posted here for everyone. I did see the decal film but I'm curios has to how you would use that? I mean I don't see an inkjet printers ink being able to withstand the liquids used to get the decals to the model.
    As for the era I’m modeling its not determined at this time because I do not have a layout I’m just weathering rolling stock to learn, get better, and enjoy the hobby the best way I can till I move to a larger home with room for a layout. I have an art background so the weathering of model railroad is enjoyable (still on the first car) and I hope to get really good at it so I have a fine detail layout when I build mine. Till then I’m going to keep up with the learning (Thanks) and maybe I can sell some of my work on eBay to compensate for the expense.
  4. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    You can put dry transfers on the clear decal film, and then use it as a decal.

  5. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Probably not likely, unless the car was in a home-road shop for some other work, but even then, I don't think that it would've been a high priority. On the other hand, the reweigh lettering (and re-pack) was required by law. The physical dimensions of all cars are listed in the ORER (Official Railway Equipment Register), by the way, so when a customer orders an empty car for loading, the agent simply looks up the cars that he has on hand to find a suitable one.

    I don't know whether the printer ink would stand up or not, but it should also get a clear overspray before being used. As Andrew notes, it is useful for applying dry transfers to hard-to-use areas, such as freight car ends. This should also get a clear overspray before use. Where the proper lettering is available, I prefer dry transfers to decals, but they're difficult to apply to irregular areas, and you don't get more than one try. ;)
    Here's where I find it's useful to apply a dry transfer as a decal:

    If you're going to be altering data, especially single digits within a number, decals are far easier to work with. I find that for some reason, ;) dates in many lettering sets, both decals and dry transfers, have a dearth of "3"s, a real problem when you're modelling the '30s, although the Champ sets have alleviated that problem somewhat. :rolleyes::-D
    By the way, when you're lettering with dry transfers, there are sometimes areas where it's difficult to fully burnish the lettering - in these situations, decal setting solutions like Solvaset will work the same way as they do on decals, softening the lettering and allowing it to cling better. This car was lettered with dry transfers, and after burnishing all of the lettering, I used a sharp blade to slit the letters at the "board" joints, much as you would with a decal. I then applied some Solvaset to allow the slit edges to snuggle down into the joint.

    This also works well for dry transfers applied over the latches and hinges on diesel hoods, although it's best to burnish the lettering as much as possible before applying the Solvaset.

  6. Wayne,
    I thank you as I'm going to do my first decals now and I need to be clear as I go. I'm sure this car (as I've been told a toy car) will not be great but I like to learn as much now so when I work on the more expensive models I get them correct. do you have a site I can refer to on the laws of what marking have to be displayed. This may save you time answering my stupid questions.

  7. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Dave, I usually just follow the diagram that comes with the lettering set. If I'm trying to replicate a particular prototype car, then I like to work from a photo, preferably taken in the era that I'm modelling. The data required and how it was laid-out did vary over the years, though, so it's best to check the prototype. Here's a good source for prototype photos:

    Fallen Flags Railroad Photos

  8. Thanks, I've been on that site a lot as I try to learn more about rolling stock. I guess when I went off "track" with this car being anything like prototyped or like any I've seen I'll have to do my best on how I get the running marks done. I'll post the results when I'm done as an update to my other thread on "my first weathering job".

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