Some REAL basic card model questions..

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by andrew ferguson, Nov 22, 2005.

  1. I'm building my very first model so forgive these simplistic questions. I'm building a tank. There are a few sheets of very thin paper (like normal writing paper thickness), which i gather are patterns for pieces i should build out of cardboard and put together, in essensce building an armature for the tank model which i then basically 'skin' with the coloured pieces that are on card stock. Is that right?

    Also, there is a lot of scoring and folding to be done. How do i know where to score? If i score on the colour side i will marr the surface and if i turn the piece over to score the back of it the lines are hidden so i don't know where to score. There must be a simple solution?

    The directions are hopeless....half the parts aren't even shown. :???:

    please help.
  2. shrike

    shrike Guest

    Without knowing the kit you are building, you are esentially correct. The thin paper should be laminated to thicker cardboard before cutting out the pieces. Hopefully the instructions will call out the proper thickness of card, if not you can get a good idea from the width of any slots /tabs shown. I use 3M 77 spray glue myself, but opinions vary.

    For scoring - after trying a lot and failing sometimes to transfer lines and points to the backside I now score everything from the front. I use a well polished stylus that was part of a set from Excell. It has a ball shaped tip approx .5m in diameter
    Gentle pressure is all that is required to stress the firbres in the card and create a line that will bend easily. Nine times out of ten it will barely be visible. You don't need to dig a furrow, just start a crease.
  3. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Absolutely correct on the thin paper. There should be an indication of the thickness required of the supporting card. In a lot of the Polish models this is indicated by (*)s - there's normally a key in the instructions to give you the correct thickness.

    Can you tell us what you are building - it may be a subject that others have experience with and can help with details.

    Figuring out where to score is part of the "fun". It helps to use a blunt scoring tool and use a fairly light touch so you don't chomp into the surface. If you've got to score on the reverse side one of the many methods to do this is to use a needle to prick a couple of holes at either end of the score line (and outside the printed area). Turn the part over and score between the holes.

    Fairly hopeless instructions are almost the norm for cardmodels. Think of it as a puzzle the designer has set for you - you don't want the designer to prove he's smarter than you. Lots of dry fitting and patience is often required.


  4. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    as for scoring on the back side of the part, use a lightbox

    it can be as simple as holding the part up to a window, and scoring the white side of the part, or build your own lightbox, or if you can, visit your local craft store, and buy one

    simple lightbox, that I use, and have helped my dad with building.
    start with a box, a couple of peices of 1x4 or 1x6, and one side cut to a wedge, and a small sheet of plexiglass, and for the light, we used under the cabinet flouresent lights
    low heat, and bright light.
    and easy to store when not being used

  5. Clever ideas, guys. Thanks.

    I'm building the Model Card KV-2. I read a review somewhere on this forum which said it was not a great kit but i figured i'd build it anyway as there are almost no curves and i love this tank.

    I plan to use a lot of scratchbuilt parts for hatches, gun barrel etc so i really just need to do the basic hull and turret out of paper. I have developed my own shortcut for doing the suspension/bogies/tracks.

    I'm scaling it up to 1/18 so i hope all goes well.

    Thanks for the tips.....more dumb questions to come, i'm sure. :smile:
  6. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I remember the KV-2 - it's not good.

    The hull frame is poorly designed so you'll have endless problems getting the
    hull frame straight. The frame needs a lot more internal bulkheads to hold the frame reasonably straight. As designed it's simply a long box with no internal formers. The print quality of the model is bad - there are huge printed colour variations between the pages - this really shows up with scans so you're up for a recolouring of most of the parts.

    The gun mantlet design simply doesn't work - if I remember correctly - I replaced it with a built up structure made from matt board.

    The sides of the turret are only supported by a single former - I suggest going up to thicker card (say 200 gsm) for these parts and glue the turret sides around the edge only - like the ship builders do with hulls.

    Trash the red stars on the turret - the Soviet Army didn't generally use the red star emblem on armour until the end of WW2. More typical would be a slogan in white - although I've never seen images of a KV-2 with slogans on the turret sides.



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