Finally got around to adding some photos to my Gallery. They are: * Galileo probe -- This is by SCI Spacecraft International, available at www.spacecraftkits.com. You purchase the model and they snail mail you the sheets with laser-cut parts. You download the instructions from their website. Generally, the model is well done, but it represents a simplified and "naked" (i.e., no thermal blankets) version of the probe. Plus, my reference photos showed some accuracy issues with the model, but the issues were largely a result of the simplification. New sections were scratchbuilt, and much of the model was covered with black foil (yeah, I cheat every now and then) to replicate the thermal blankets covering the actual spacecraft. I should note that in real life, the high-gain antenna (which is beautifully laser-cut in the kit) got hung up on the HGA sunshade and didn't unfurl. I couldn't figure out a way to replicate that with the kit parts, plus I liked the look of the fully blossomed and functioning antenna. * BC-303 Prometheus -- The kit is available for free download from www.freewebs.com/jaybats/ so check it out. My chosen card-modeling genre is Real Space, but everybody needs a break sometimes and on top of that, I'm a big fan of "Stargate SG-1" so this one was a natural. The BC-303 has to be one of the most ungainly spacecraft ever to ugly up a TV screen, but there is a certain beauty in its utilitarian angularity. Generally, the model is very well designed and easy to build, although the "instructions" consist of an exploded-view diagram that leaves a lot of questions; fortunately, there are photos of the Prometheus online. (I didn't find any drawings, but I'm sure there are some online somewhere.) The kit is built stock except for a couple of points. First, to add strength and rigidity, i glued wood coffee stir sticks to some internal parts of the model. Secondly, I replaced the engine nozzles. I couldn't get the kit parts to look correct (although I admit I only tried once) and so I scratchbuilt some parts out of a metallic paper I had. If you're building this model, I would recommend that during construction you cut the unwieldy "shoulder" secton (that's what the instruction sheet names it) into three parts -- rear and then left and right sides. You should do this because the strips of paper that connect the two sides to the rear part are thin and tend to tear while doing all the folding that is required. After my sides tore off, I wound up cleaning up the tears, making new connecting tabs and assembling the thing back into one big part before gluing it to the model. The model would benefit from using some advanced building techniques; for example, it would make for a cleaner build if you cut off some of the glue tabs and turned them into butt joints. Also, it might be interesting to print out the model twice and use the extra to cut out various panels and glue them to the model, giving the surface a 3D paneling effect. But, for the most part, this is a very well designed model. It didn't take long to build and I had fun, which is why we're here in the first place.