So which Bismarck???

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by lgl007, Jun 30, 2004.

  1. lgl007

    lgl007 Member

    Hey guys,

    So I've been pondering this for about two months now while I finish off my Halinski P-51... I know I want to build the Bismarck next but which one?

    I have read just about everything I could find on all our sister boards and on the net about the HMV, the Halinski and the GPM...

    1) the color scheme is not very good on the HMV Bismarck, the deck planks are a pale yellow as opposed teak looking (like on the Halinski or GPM model both models in this regard are superb - print quality second to none). The side of the hull also does not have the jagged reverse wave camo that looks soo cool. The Halinski even has the tops of the gun turrets in yellow. This painting scheme was ordered by the captain in the logs but there is no photographic evidence to suggest it happened before she was sunk. Still it's a nice touch on both the GPM and Halinski, not to mention the swastika flga on both the GPM and Halinski which adds a huge spash of color to the model, not that this feature is important since it got painted over as soon as the ship entered enemy waters to help camoflage her against enemy planes...

    2) You can get an unbelievable photo etch kit (almost $200 CDN) for the HMV that makes the ship an incredibly detailed piece of art (over 7,000 pieces in total)... and the HMV instructions are so good that they actually include the photo etch kit application details so the build is relatively easy from that perspective - very little guess work.

    3) The GPM is very nice in terms of color and print but I have read one bad review about the fit of pieces (like ladder pieces not being long enough to touch the floor they are supposed to reach) and that the planes are out of scale and don't make sense relative to the scale of the ship. But you can get a very small photo etch set for the GPM along with pre fab'd gun barrels. This being a 1:200 model means that the same photo etch kit and gun barrels can be used on the Halinski model as well. Because the photo etch kit is only two sheets it doesn't come even remotely close to the detail level of the HMV. Scorpio has posted pics from his HMV Bismarck on this website so you can take a look at the spectacular detail of this kit.

    4) The HMV instructions for the build are the best. The Halinski instructions leave alot to be desired and both the GPM and Halinski can never be as detailed as the HMV but they are more attractive from a color perspective but not from a finish perspective...

    5) Also, there seems to be a better selection of 1:200 ships out there from WWII so I'd like to stay in one scale if at all possible if I decide to build another one... so this is another consideration. (The HMV is 1:250 and both the Halinski and GPM are 1:200.)

    I just can't decide... each one has pros and cons ... I actually have the Halinski Bismarck at home and I have been studying it intensely for some time now but hesitate to start because of the those point above that I keep mulling over in my mind... that's why I'm looking for some more opinions... I'd hate to start a 200+ hour project just to be disappointed at the results. The Halinski frightens me a bit because the poor instructions... the kit is more like a puzzle... whereas the HMV instructions are more like plastic model kit instructions.

    Oh by the way if you are interested in seeing the Halinski work in progress:

    And here is the GPM model:

    I just need some help with this one gang... I'm truly stumped. There are two things I love about models:
    1) The detail!
    2) The quality of finish... by this I mean the fit and colors used.
    So as you can see I can't get both... and I can't decide which one is more important to me... :wink:

  2. jrts

    jrts Active Member

    Hi Greg

    One thing I have found is when money is involved the only person who can decide is you!!

    If you have one of the kits, why not try to build one of the sections that had a bad report. Scan it and do the build, if it turns out that it has problems this could help you to decide. doing this way you won't have damaged the kit.

    Not much help I know, just a thought


  3. lgl007

    lgl007 Member

    Actually jrts ... money is not really the issue... time is more my issue. Time is limited... with a family and work I want to be sure to use what little spare time I have to the best of my enjoyment... hence why this decision is so hard for me. Like I said, I don't want to be 50 hours into a 200 hour project only to find that it's just not what it should be ... know what I mean?

    I've been building plastic models for many many years now and that is the reason why I only buy Tamiya. I know I won't be frustrated with the kit, there are lots of aftermarket photo etch kits available for them, and they look perfect if modelled correctly...

  4. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    Go on, buy all of them!! You know you want too......

    Tim P
  5. Maurice

    Maurice Member


    Just one point to feed into your deliberations.
    A range of additional generic photo etch sets is readily available in 1:200 scale, not so in 1:250.

  6. lgl007

    lgl007 Member


    Yes, I know... but the generic stuff is limited in scope... so a 1:200 scale Bismarck could never come even close to the level of detail of the 1:250 HMV Bismarck. Believe me, if I could find the same level of detail for the 1:200 in photo etch add ons this would make my decision super easy... I would just go for the Halinski 1:200... simple, but alas it's not that easy...

    I have scoured the net and checked all the online stores for the 1:200 generic stuff... yes, you can get barrells, railings, stairs, along with the 2 or 3 sheet photo etch kit you can get from GPM this makes for a nice model.... but again, not nearly as detailed as the 1:250...

    The deliberations continue :?


    PS: Wunwinglow: LOL buying all 3 of them will not solve my problem mate... remember it's the time investment... :wink:
  7. Ajax

    Ajax Member

    If money is not an issue, I would probably go with the HMV kit plus the elaborate photo-etch set... especially after seeing what Scorpio could accomplish with it! :D As you say, the instructions are supposed to be wonderful and the level of detail that can be achieved is bound to cause anybody passing by to do a doubletake. There is no remedy, however, for the less colorful paint scheme. As to the excessively yellow decks, I read the following tip in this review of JSC's Goeben, though not having tried it I can't personally vouch for its merits:

    Next, I would rank the Halinski kit supplemented with the GPM photo-etch and guns or other 1:200 scale parts. You get the bold color scheme and a reasonable amount of detail. However, given your concern about wasting hours of work, and your aversion to the "puzzle" element of kits with poor instructions (some people find that fun! :lol:), there would be the ever-present risk of a fatal mistake. As suggested, you could always hedge your bets by scanning a copy to printout test or replacement parts (in fact, some members here advocate building entirely scanned copies); or if that is not an option, simply buy another copy to be used for spare parts.

    Although I personally would go with the HMV, it seems like the Halinski kit is a happy compromise between your competing priorities of color vs. detail. And considering the fact you already bought the Halinski kit, it probably makes the most sense.

    The GPM kit I wouldn't even consider buying. The information you discovered fits the impression of the model I formed from looking at the pictures of it: the proportions of the model tend to be a bit off places. This is most obvious if you look at the bridge -- it's simply too tall.

  8. lgl007

    lgl007 Member


    Hmmm interesting... washing the deck with "tea"... well that makes sense given that tea will give it a richer more browny tint... but the application would be very tricky given that too much moisture will warp the card board deck... wish I could find a guide to this technique somewhere and how it would be applied to paper model building.

    Yes, I agree with your recommendation Aj... no doubt about it... thank you very much for your input :D it is very much appreciated.

  9. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    Ref the tea appliciation problem, could you airbrush it on in very light mist coats, let it dry, another, let it dry, another, etc, 'til you had the right tone? Just a thought. Reminds me of the time I dipped my paint brush in my coffee to wash it out. Better that though, than taking a swig from my brush swill jar......

    Tim P
  10. George

    George Member

    Hi all,

    Following this discussion with great intrest...also very inspired after
    seeing Scorpios work. I think I'll go for the Halinsky myself...also
    in my collection.

    Now and then I grab a brush and paint some watercolors...I actually not
    that bad...people have bought from me. :D
    Well...back to subject...when painting with watercolor your paper will warp a lot and before framing the painting you have to solve that. How??? Very easy...when the paper is almost dry you just take the familys flat iron and ironing board and treat the sheet as a white shirt...with care!!!

    I have done that on several paper model parts that I have recolored
    with watercolors and it have turned out very nicely!!!
  11. jrts

    jrts Active Member


    Hi George

    I've just got to give that a go (while the other halfs out) :wink: , cracker idea


  12. tino

    tino Member

    Hi Greg,

    I want to help you more but it's begining to be hard to help you.
    Do you receive my e-mail? With this adress
    At this point you should by the 3 and then compare them in your hands.

    Your friend,
  13. lgl007

    lgl007 Member

    Hey guys,

    Thanks for all the info... yes, maybe airbrushing the "tea" onto the deck would work... LOL... that's funny... I'm laughing even as I write this... :lol: But it does make sense and a very light and gradual appication would not warp the paper...

    The ironing idea is also a very good one in case there is some warping... thank you for that...

    Tino, yes, got your e-mail mate... thanks :)


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