single sheet vs laminate

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by cgutzmer, May 30, 2006.

  1. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    To this point in my rather short time in the hobby, I have pretty much printed all my models on 80-110 poundish paper. Typically I use the heaviest matte photo paper I can find - right now I think its an Epson variety of some sort. I don't put any kind of coating on it, i just print it, cut it and glue it. Sometimes I color the edges sometimes I don't (but that's another story for another thread) I really want to take my models to the next level and want some advice/instruction

    Will I really get a better quality model laminating to 1mm thickness (as I see outlined here in several threads) and how much harder is it to roll tubes and get curves right? If you use different thickness paper/laminates for different parts can you outline for me? (or at least a vague idea)
  2. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    It really depends on what you are modeling........... planes train, cars, ships etc. Mostly everyone uses a heavy or laminated stock for the formers, and for skinning the subject use whatever weight paper they are comfortable with. Heck some use different weights for jointing pieces and such.

    It's really up to you. Just have fun!
  3. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member


    Now that is a tall order! or rather it could be but I will try to be brief.
    When I first started this wonderful hobby, I did everything out of 110 lb card stock.
    You, just like me, will discover what is best for you the more you model.

    Some parts need to be laminated to 1mm or thicker card as that is the way the model is designed to be built but these are usually the interior parts of the model and give the model it's shape, structure and stability. In ships these parts are usually called egg crates. In planes the wings are usually formed on what are called wing spars.
    The actual exterior "skin", the part that everyone sees, is usually something thinner like 67lb. It is easier to shape a thinner paper. Thinner paper works better for rolled parts also and sometimes a model designer will tell you to print a certain sheet of parts on ordinary 20-24lb paper for this reason.
    Due to the fact that card stock is more expensive than ordinary paper, I print out the "formers" or "egg crates" onto ordinary paper, (using the cheapest available) and laminate that to the thicker 1mm card. No one sees these parts so an expensive paper or thick card stock is not necessary. Most of the car models you get for free on the net have no interior structure to give it shape so I tend to stick with the 110 lb stock for these so that they maintain their shape. Photo paper seems to be more dense than ordinary paper of the same thickness and is great for the race cars. It is a lot more expensive so I usually only use it for an extremely well designed and beautiful car when I want to keep that glossy look of the real thing.

    Every model is different and every designer has his own way of doing things and there are really no "rules" per say.
    Like I said, the longer you model with paper, you will figure out what works best for you and what you are more comfortable with.

    I like reading through the forums and watching other people build their models. I learn knew techniques and different ways of doing things. It is a joy to behold a creation in progress not to mention making new friends.

    Oh yeah, welcome to the forum! I know you will love it here and I guarantee you will learn something new every time you log on. I hope I helped you out some and gave you a better understanding of "how it's done".

    Looking forward to seeing you around here,
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Thanks! I think my downfall was thinking that I should have been using the same weight for the entire model. I also just read about laser printers having ink that flakes off and was having that problem - thought it was just me too.... now I know better! back to printing at home on the reliable inkjet! This site is great!
  5. Bluenoser

    Bluenoser Member

    I made a model of a hand gun and printed it on the laser printer and the print flaked off for me too. However, the effect it left gave the gun a worn/used look. It actually looked really nice. But otherwise, I don't print from a laser printer anymore.
  6. Texman

    Texman Guest

    Besides the already mentioned point of using different weight paper for different parts of the model, another consideration is the scale of the model
    your building. As I build armor in 1/87 and aircraft in 1/144, I find that 67# cardstock and regular paper are best for me. I just print two copies of the
    model, one on each type of paper. If your building in the larger scales, of course you will need heavier stock for your applications, as they
    will have to be structurally stronger.
  7. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    That makes sense too. I havent got to build anything lately and I am getting the itch! Not sure about printing two complete copies though - ink isnt cheap!
  8. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    printing two copies is cheaper than the frustration you will experience when you try what you mentioned.

    I build cars and trucks mostly, and with the race cars i tend to build, i print two copies, one on the epson paper I mentioned in another thread, and one of cardstock, usually 67# cover stock, i use the cardstock parts for the wheels, chassis, and any other part that I know will usually not be seen.
    the glossy paper parts make up the body work, and that gives the impression of a clear smooth car finish.

  9. Texman

    Texman Guest

    Which is exactly what I am doing with one of the Nascar models. It really
    does look good that way.

  10. Bluenoser

    Bluenoser Member

    I've done two of the NASCAR models now. I covered them with Future floor wax. I got a little shine out of this. Got to be careful putting it on though, too much brushing or too much fluid will cause the ink to bleed. This was an attempt to get a shine without having to srcape away glossy paper.
  11. milenio3

    milenio3 Active Member

    I've been using clear spary coat paint. At first, I build my plane, then I sprayed over the model. But there were some parts missing. Then I tried coating first the printed diagrams (110lb on card stock), and then cut/paste. That gave me two good results: I had a good looking image of the model, and second, grease from the hands and other "non friendly" materials (water, your kid's chocolate fingers, or my alergic reaction to summer), could be easly wiped out from the piece.
  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Floor wax? I dont think I ever would have thought of that. Someone said that I will learn something everytime I log on - he was wrong - more like 10 things each time....
  13. Alcides

    Alcides Member

    A question to milenio3

    How you ask for clear spary coat paint in spanish. I've some trouble here in Argentina getting the materials.

  14. I don't think you want to be spraying your models with wax. But, Future isn't a 'floor wax', it's a 'floor finish'. Actually it's a clear acrylic which makes it wonderful for modeling. Cheap too.

    Cheers --- Larry

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