Silly Glue!

Discussion in 'Tools of the Trade' started by keith, May 26, 2008.

  1. keith

    keith Member

    NEVER buy washable PVA.
    I thought glue was glue, apparently not.
    I spent 3 weeks making half a snail character - 12 hours for the head - 8 hours for the neck didn't seem that complicated to make, it just took about an hour for the glue to dry enough so that the next tab could be glued.
    It was only when i peeled off some dired glue from my board that i noticed it didn't snap into little bits, but was soft, like hot melt glue. It must be due to an additive they put in the PVA to make it washable, it's absolutly useless for modelling. Don't use it.

    I've since bought cheaporama standard PVA, dries fast brittle, just like it should. Might get back to building when my sanity returns.

    Don't use washable PVA.

    NULLMOON Member

    all pva is basicly the same "recipe" different producers makes with variations on the chemical composition they also tend to put additives in which can either help or hinder the properties of glue washable pva is utterly useless it dosent grip as well and dries in a manner best described as "chewy" and is no more washable than standard pva ........

    pretty much what keith said
  3. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Hi people.

    I don't use any of the general PVA glues - with one exception.
    The stuff used to bond cement/plaster - used as a wash on brickwork at 304.8mm to 12 inch scale.:mrgreen::twisted:

    For paper I use
    the old favorite: gum aka gum-arabic, any brand,
    UHU stic - applied with side of flexible hobby knife or cotton bud.
    Solvite overlap adhesive - bonds plastic coated paper nicely.
    Solvite wallpaper paste - economical for laminating card sheets.

    What do other people use?
  4. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    I'm PVA only ^^ All PVA's are the same, if it doesn't stick, just let the bottle dry in the air for a bit. I bought 2 with the squeezable bottles from Homebase 2 years ago and I'm still using them now :D
  5. keith

    keith Member

    Lex - thats exactly what I thought.
    Try going to wilkinsons and buy some 'Bostick PVA washable' just for fun, you'll be suprised how useless this stuff actually is for modelling.
    It's ok for kids crafts, but you really don't need to spend 10 minutes holding your tabs in place before it even starts to bond.
    Good news is that if your joint does slip, you have another 5 minutes to put it right :-D

    Logiman - i can't use gum-arabic, i end up eating it. So tastey.

    PVA washable doesn't smell right, it smells much sweeter than standard PVA
  6. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    Wait, I'm using exactly that Bostick one and it works fine for me... It might be different habits of modeling at work. --I think the time enables you to do minor adjustments on larger parts which you aren't going to fit perfectly in the first go. And you can deal with awkward joints one by one without fearing the glue drying up. But the good thing is, once you press hard on the joint, it will join tightly and immediately.

    Also, washable PVA is as harmless a glue can get... :D ie No smelly volatile solvents etc ;)
  7. smyfe

    smyfe Member

    Keith, as you live here in the sunny Midlands:p, have you tried Hobbycraft at Wolverhampton? They do an own make tacky glue, which is still a PVA but dries crystal clear and you can move on to the next part in less than 30 seconds:thumb::thumb: I bought some recently and now I don't use anything else and I may even finish a whole model at last.:oops: I did finish the Paper Art eagle using it and it holds glossy paper/card very well:mrgreen:
  8. greenelf1967

    greenelf1967 Member

    Well i use Anita's Tacky PVA glue and have been for about two years now. I used to use just normal pva glue but then i tried this stuff, it's amazing dries in about 15 secs and i would not go back to using normal pva glue again... the nozzle on the tubes is about 1/2 mm so you can be pretty acurate with it... i get mine from paper mill from aberdeen but a lot of craft/card shops sell it
  9. keith

    keith Member

    Lex - I am truely amazed you can use it, i did like the ability to reposition the join until i realised it was the glue causing the joint to slip out of position:/
    It's probably because i never press hard on a joint, dirt seems to be electrostatically bonded to my body so i know that even if i touch the glued part, it's ruined. :(

    Will have to try this tacky glue, it sounds perfect for my modelling style of just running the pin along the edge of the joint.

    Is it the same viscosity as PVA?
  10. smyfe

    smyfe Member

    It's a little thicker, but spreads easily with a cocktail stick or you can apply it straight from the tube.
  11. col. kurtz

    col. kurtz Member

    i too use hobbycraft own brand pva its grrrrreat !!!a bit off the topic but can anyone reccomend a good varnish i could buy to use on my paper models?
  12. slee2099

    slee2099 Member

    I've found I like Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive it holds well dries fast and has a precision applicator tip and it's acid free so no worries about yellowing.
  13. Thomas Meek

    Thomas Meek New Member

    I like to use "Elmer's Craft-Bond Paper Craft Gel Glue. It is clear and dries crystal clear. It also takes a little while to grab, so some repositioning is possible.
    Unfortunately, it also dries with a high gloss, and cannot be removed from printed surfaces without damage.

    "Office Works White Glue" grabs fast; too fast for some models, but needed for others.
    The stuff dries pretty clear and flat so it forgives minor squeezeouts and is not glaring to the eye when dried.

    I find gluesticks good for laminating; they seem to work as well as that spraycan stuff but smell better and lots cheaper.


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