Shell holes on tank models..

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by andrew ferguson, Dec 14, 2005.

  1. there a nifty way of simulating shell strikes on the hull/turret of a tank? Specifically, i'd like to simulate shells that hit but did not penetrate the armour (i'm doing a Russian KV-2).

    Thanks for any tips! :smile:
  2. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Interesting question.

    From images I've seen it looks as though most anti-armour rounds in the early
    part of WW2 were ballistic rounds which tried to punch through the armour and explode inside. I'd guess for rounds which didn't penetrate there would be a crater-shaped depression in the armour. There usually is quite a lot of distortion and melting of the armour from the KE of the round so the edges of the strike are raised. The shape of the hole is going to depend on the angle of the projectile hit - there's an image around of a Panther (I think) hit in the glacis plate - it looks like a ploughed furrow up the glacis.

    HEAT rounds don't leave much of a mark - usually a small blackened area on the armour. The Soviet tankers used to refer to this as the "kiss of the witch".

    Perhaps one of the many suggestions for modelling paste might help for this. I remember Gil did a long series of experiments on modelling pastes a while back.


  3. nebeltex

    nebeltex Member

    scuffed and scorched...

    C is right. non penetrating HEAT rounds leave an indentation and an irregular scorched area. pictures i have seen show star shaped spalling associated with the warhead charge spreadling laterally instead of penetrating....
  4. charliec

    charliec Active Member

  5. Hi guys.......i appreciate the input but i know what the shell holes look like. I was hoping for tips on how to simulate them on a paper model.

    Any help much appreciated. :smile:
  6. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Fair point. After a little thought - it seems to be that shell holes are the
    inverse of detailing rivets by embossing. Normally when you emboss there
    isn't a ridge created around the embossed depression. I wonder if using an embossing tool and wetting and rotating it after indenting the surface would work? Alternatively perhaps embossing the "shell hole" and adding a drop of varnish/filler into the hole and squeezing it out with an embossing tool to make the surrounding ridge might do the trick.



    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy Guys,

    Well, I like being somewhat creative with my Photo editing program myself, doing things like "personalizing" aircraft with the pilots name on the side of the cockpit, or placing "kill" markers like swastikas or bomb icons or Japanese flags (the rising sun) on the sides of model aircraft.
    When I first saw this thread I thought about the bullet hole appliques you can buy as novelty gags that you peel and place on automobiles. I think that they could be used in connection with a photo editing program to simulate bullet or shell holes in paper models. Below is an example of the "appliques" of which I speak:

    These can be found by searching for "bullet holes" in the google image search :
    Hope this helps.

    Have a good evening,

    Greg aka GW
  8. nebeltex

    nebeltex Member

    HEAT round hit...

    nice bullet holes GW. kinetic penetration of tank rounds i have seen show less of an indentation. in fact, they seem to have a circular lip around the hole which extends out, not in. this is because AT rounds have a MUCH higher velocity than small arms and push armor aside. after giving it some thought (i have not tried this but will soon), new year's is coming up and that means! sparklers are cheap and very hot. immediately after lighting a sparkler, use the hot tip to similate non penetrating HEAT round strikes. if this is done on a flat surface before assembly, penetration can be avoided. you should get some scorching and residual metal around the strike. the last time i burned the @#%!! out of a finger with a sparkler, that was the result. needless to say, be careful and try a test piece first for yourself.
  9. hpept

    hpept Member

    i can suggest the following technique: poke a hole of the adequate diameter with a sewing needle just in the direction of the hit (from outside to inside of the surface) then, on the reverse side, apply a small drop of CA glue to the needle so that it glues to the paper and let it set. simply pull out the needle and you'll obtain a crater hole with raised edges. Then you can glue a coloured back panel (blach or natural metal) to the hole just to don't see though it.

    another thing you can do is to poke a hole and let a sewing thread pass through it. Then, on the reverse side, tie a simple knot which is bigger than the hole and pull the line: the knot will force the hole edges outwards.
  10. that is nifty.


Share This Page