SD 14 General Cargo Ship

Discussion in 'Kit Reviews' started by NYC Irish, May 23, 2005.

  1. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member


    Thanks Jim....Yeah the vent system is quite intricate and unfortunately there have been a few hiccups... The assembly order as in the manual have not really taken into account that once certain sections are in place its tough/impossible to get others in place...I have since had to remove the vents and will try and suitibly replace them later.

    John John

    Ps there should be a picture here...does someone know if I reached my Upload Limit for the site?

    John John
  2. jcrespo

    jcrespo Member

    John John,

    You're doing an outstanding job. Wow! What a lot of parts!

    However, I think the "relevant Authorities" will require more than a box of chocalates; what with the initial cost of the model, the time its taking away from other things, and the space its consuming ... perhaps a night out on the town would please the goddess.

  3. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    John John,

    I checked the settings, we still have space for attachments and the like

    methunks something burped between the post and the upload.

    try again?

  4. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member

    ok Ill try

    Ill try again...Its been a few days since this kind of trouble began(Im not complaining, just giving the Admins a heads up?)
    OK the Upper Deck Beams

    John John

    Nope didnt work.... :shock: :shock: and I havent been to the pub... :evil:
  5. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member


    Ok I have found the problem.
    If your files is too big to upload and you hit SUBMIT the site tells you that its too big, but if you hit PREVIEW it will not say anything. I though the pics I was trying to preview were of a suitible size but were not...
    Justa help to anyone who may run into it themselves
    OK well back to the ship

    I ran into some trouble with the deck house. To save design time matching items from port an dstarboard were just simple negative photocopies of each other. Woudl work fine but the alignment was screwed up when it came to alignment. The alignment point was marked as 1 inch from the front on the port side...but the starboard was one inch from the back...but..Ill live
  6. jrts

    jrts Active Member

    Hi John John

    Great stuff, its realy going together fast :D

    Are you going to colour the holds ect, and if so what will you use to do it.

    Keep at it as we always want more :lol:

    Can't wait to see the results of all your work

  7. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member

    Hey rob, thanks for the good words.

    I never really thought about painting it, I had considered copying it to different coloured paper depending on the type of piece it was, Grey for the hull frames, Red for floors etc...but the amount of trouble I had just getting any kind of suitible paper threw that idea out he window....

    Id be open to suddestions about painting it but...I think the reason I went to Paper Models rather than plastic is Im not a good painter. Paper models are pre painted or Adobe can fix a colour problem.

    As you see it now Im pretty much done with the bow, some details and that will be it. I am also researching the crane booms as they or no help about them were included in the kit but I do know they will look good if added to the model.
    Im taking abreak from this kit for a while, Im building Mr. Currells N1 for a change of pace...

    Ill let you all see when I start the midsection.....Logans site shows im infor a long haul....

    John John
  8. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member

    Well this is a disgrace...its been three years since I posted here and left it hanging at the Bow section of the kit....boooo

    Ive managed to divert my effort back and now lets try n get this one finished shall we?

    Back to the mid section
    Origionally I thought that it might be fun to do the whole 3 sections in one go, From the Keel up in one long go, after doing the midesction which was no. 135 to no. 53 Im glad for my sanity that I did it in 3 sections. So far after 3 years I am on sheet 80 of not even 1/2 way there...this could take a while..

    Dont worry I know its card and its a BBQ, but its Ireland...we dont really know what to do with them....


    Attached Files:

  9. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    What's 3 Years?

    Hi John-John,

    Not knowing what to do with card models and BBQ's is Ok if you're Irish.

    The Irish seem to know what to do with an EU Treaty though...,

    Great progress on the SD-14! I'll be tuning in for more...,

  10. Flex_Thrust

    Flex_Thrust New Member

    Hi John John,
    Impressed with your build! A few questions for you as I am on the brink of buying it myself.
    a) I build Radio Controlled models and had in mind to build it as a working model too - but looking at peoples blogs on the build, would seem such a shame to hide all that hard work. So would you agree it really should be a static display so people have the full 'wow' factor from it?

    b) What type(s) of glue and which tools did you use? (I can imagine a crate load of scalpels and a couple of different sizes of steel rules would be there, but there must have been other, really helpful or indispensable tools)

    c) I had been thinking of how to preserve the model. I would think the card must yellow over time, or the glued joints begin to open, and had thought a sprayed on varnish would help seal it. Any thoughts?

    d) I see on Marcles website they have pics of a R/C version so there must be some difference in the construction to the static. It must need strengthening - launching/recovering a model that length and displacement would cause loads on the hull.
    All I had thought of to date was to cover the shell in fibreglass tissue
    Any ideas?
    Thanks for making the build log! I look forward to getting on with it!

  11. romanmodels

    romanmodels Member

    Hi Flex Thrust ,

    I have been building the sd14 on and off the last three years and have been meaning to post some pictures here when I get around to reducing their size. There have been some radio controlled versions made. I know of one that used thin ply to clad Frames instead of the cardboard the model comes printed on manila card.

    I'm doing mine as a static model and painting the model, I started off making it in sections, but soon made all three sections in one go. I just use normal PVA wood glue and yes a lot of scalpel blades and a half metre rule is useful along with a 12 and 6 inch one. If you're doing it in one go like I have then metre rule as well to get the hull plates all lined up.

    If you're going to make it radio controlled version. I think you need about seven pounds of lead ballast you could use lead shot and put some into the double bottomed hull and then had the rest. Once it's in the water.

    It's a great model to make if rather large and gives a real insight into the making and the structure of ships.

  12. Flex_Thrust

    Flex_Thrust New Member

    Sd 14

    Hi Romanmodels,

    Thanks for your post, I must say hats off to you for going for the whole-ship-in-a-one-er approach! No doubt it is a long slog.

    I'm trying to collate as much info as poss before building, a modus operandi that has served me well in the past so would love to see some pics of your build and moreso your comments - especially in the way of tips and advice, the only card model I did before was by Wilhelmshavener Modellbaubogen. Think the card was much thiner than the SD but nonetheless so was the size of the model. Still, I admit I found it tricky enough working with such thin card.

    Here are some excellent build logs

    Please do send on some pics and any and all advice you might have for those following your footsteps would be well noted indeed!

    Keep in touch and let us know how it progresses!

  13. romanmodels

    romanmodels Member

    Hi Alan
    I've seen both those build logs and they are good. There were two more build logs on the German kartonmodel site that is no longer up. I did manage to save some pages before the site folded but they are from the end of the build where he was adding the ringing to the davits.
    I am planning to post pictures of my build but they need resizing before I can upload them.
    The card is not that thick is the same as the card used to make the Manila folders to go in filing cabinets.have just measured it and it is 0.32mm thick and is just right, it's enough to roll into a tube but strong enough the model. It might seem flimsy but one think you will learn making this model is structure and it stiffens up really well.
    It's not too difficult doing it all in one, I've sort of worked through the free sections in sequence. If this makes sense so doing the forward section floors and then the midsection and then the stern and then returning to the front and starting on the next sequence. But cutting out the transverse floors to the double bottomed Hull, did get very repetitive. I did find I could cut a sheet of floors out in an hour by the end.
    I have designed a basic engine as well to go in the engine room as well as adding in the oil and water tanks and the workshop walls and the provision stalls on the engine room flats using plans in the back of Linwoods book.
    I will just go and resize some pics
  14. romanmodels

    romanmodels Member

    first one is the bow section showing the floors and longitudinal beams that make up the double bottomed Hull and form ballast tanks tank top plates will be put on next.
    The next picture shows the engine room flats with oil and water tanks on the starboard side and workshops on the port
    the third is a side view the basic engine. I made to going engine room
    the fourth is in end view of the engine
    the fifth one is a top view with it in the engine room
    and the six shows the model with the Hull completed and is waiting to be painted . Although I have started on some of the bow deck fittings and the number one hatch and mast

    Attached Files:

  15. Flex_Thrust

    Flex_Thrust New Member

    Hi David,
    Thanks for uploading the photos - it looks like a really neat construction! If there are as many lightening holes in the frames and longitudinals as in a real v/l then repetitive strain injury must be on the cards?!?! Did you find a way to cut them all out with a dye of some sort perhaps - or was it scalpel blade all the way?
    The E/R flats look great with the corrugated bulkheads, very realistic.
    Did you make the ladders yourself or are they in the kit?
    Brilliant idea with the engine - where did you get the snaps? Is it a Doxford?
    And the finished hull David - a real masterpiece!
    Would you guesstimate the time taken to date?
    I am deliberating over a method and materials to have a transparent hull shell plate - from the sheerstrake to the garboard strake all along one side. Maybe 'windows' would be better but it should be viewed in all its glory I think, the vast detail is the breathtaking thing about it!
    Thanks for posting, it's a brilliant job you're doing.
    More pics when you can!
  16. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I would definitely consider getting a CraftRobo. This type of modeling seems more like Naval Architecture. It is really incredible. The CraftRobo's go for around $300 U.S., it could save you a massive amount of time, possibly a marriage, and prevent carpel tunnel syndrome. :)

  17. romanmodels

    romanmodels Member

    Zathros nifty machine but the sheet SD 14 are A3 in size. So I think it would cost more than the model and it's only the cutting of the floors ( ribs) that is repetitive.
    Alan I put lightning holes in the longitudinal on the bow section but it made them quite weak, so I didn't do any more. They aren't marked out on the model.
    The engine is scratch built and is based on aside elevation from a general arrangement drawing reproduced in John Lingwoods book SD14 the full story which if you haven't got is well worth getting. I got a copy from the local library and then was given a copy. There are ladders included in the kit but I made the ones to go with the engine as the model only builds you the basic steel shell for a British registered for timescale it is hard to say how long it has taken I started at the end of December2007 and it has been on and off since then and many only at weekends in the winter
    I will post more pictures but will move it to build thread.

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