Discussion in 'FAQs' started by justind, Dec 11, 2001.

  1. justind

    justind Member

    I sat down last night and mixed my very first batch of sculptamold. The mix itself had large lumps in it (about 1/4"x1/8" for the very largest) that were composed of not setup plaster but what looked like shredded cardboard. Thinking this was by design I proceeded to add the water to the mixture and mix it, but the lumps had to be ground up against the side of the mixing container with a spatula in order to let the water seep into them. In the end (I had lined the bowel with a plastic bag) I had to lift out the plastic bag and kneed it with my hands to work out most of the lumps. Then I had to apply the sculptamold by hand in order to smooth it and squish the remaining lumps. I know that this stuff is not meant to act like plaster, but is it supposed to have lumps in it? I was afraid that if they stayed in the mix that when the terrain dried the lumps would weaken and cause the terrain to easily chip away, or crack.
    Finally, the question: Does this sound correct for this stuff, or do I have an old or bad batch of sculptamold? If I had left the lumps alone would they absorb enough moisture from the sorounding mix to set the plaster?
  2. Railery

    Railery Member

    i don't know about sculptamold, but lumps are bad news. Like any plaster. If it is lumpy and u poured it for a road or for a truck terminal with sunken tracks. When u sand the surface a little and catch a lump, it breaks into a powder. This now leaves a small crater. i know this from experience when i first started using plaster for roads and parking areas. No lumps. Mountains and hill surfaces don't really matter as much, because their texture is rough looking.
  3. justind

    justind Member

    I am getting similar feedback from others, who avoid using Sculptamold for flat/smooth areas. However, they say this is a paper-mache that causes the lumps and that the bonding materials will strengthen the lumps. If I am careful, or willing to work the stuff by hand, then it works fine.
    Other than this, the stuff is great and can be molded into hills and ravines very nicely.
  4. Bill Pontin

    Bill Pontin Member

    Justin, I had the same concern about the lumps when I first used the product "Sculptamold". It looked like cottage cheese and I was sure the stuff would not work, not to worry the stuff is great. I have not used it to make smooth road like surfaces, I use it primarily to anchor the plaster rock outcroppings that I have cast and I'm sure it would work on cork and wood chips. It takes a considerable longer time to dry than plaster and this is definately a plus when you are fussing with placement of items. It is much lighter than plaster and I think its primary composition is paper with glue and plaster bonders. For covering large areas over a porus surface it has no equal.

    Bill :p
  5. Drew1125

    Drew1125 Active Member

    Here's a tip for mixing sculptamold, & plaster -
    ALWAYS pour the water into the mixing container first, AND THEN stir in the dry material.
    This allows the material to break down easier, & more thoroughly into the liquid.
    That's just one of the millions of things I've learned over the years by trial & error. (LOTS of error! :D)
    Don't give up on the Sculptamold, it's great stuff!
  6. Railery

    Railery Member

    :) Thanks Justind, thats good to know about Sculptamold. What i did was buy a 50 lb. bag of plaster paris Quick Set for $10 from a dealer. i mix it in two ways: 1. just plaster with water and acrylic color for ground coverage the 2nd. for covering brown paper to make mountains or ridges. i mix the plaster with water and white latex ceiling paint. U can get a 3 gallon container for $15. U can then add Liquitex acrylic color to your mix, i carry a full range of colors and they never go bad. The only part that can go bad over time is the ceiling paint. i bought my bag 7 yrs ago and i still have 2/3rds left. It goes a long ways. And Charlie that is exactly the way to begin to mix, and then add the paint. What i really like about this, i can make the mix thick or soupy and it drys in a nice time. Sorry guys i did not mean to get off the topic.

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