Score Lines - The Best Way?

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Redwulf, Jan 18, 2006.

  1. Redwulf

    Redwulf Member

    I'm building a Fokker DVII and I need to make some nice score lines in the wing for ribs. What's the best thing to use and are there an tricks or techniques to make them really look good? I'm assuming you do it from the back side. I've done some experiments with different things and not gotten very good results.
  2. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    Some people use an empty ballpoint pen. Some use a dull hobby knife blade or the back of a hobby knife blade. I use a small crocheting hook needle thingy. To score on the back (called reverse scoring usually) use a light box or you can use a pin and poke holes just outside of the printed part at each end of the score line. Turn the page over and score between the holes.
    Practice, practice, practice. You'll get the hang of it. :)
  3. Redwulf

    Redwulf Member

    I thought an empty pen would work best. I can't seem to empty one though! I used a "nutcracking" pick that works well. However it seems to tear at the front when I score it from behind. I didn't expect that. It's not making a nice clean line. Perhaps it's what I have underneath of it?
  4. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    I've bought a couple of paper embossing tools made by Pergamano which I can get here in the UK from my local Hobbycraft story. That said, the long point of an old-time school geometry set compass still works the best for me! Modern kids compasses have useless 'Safe' points on them, no doubt to protect the manufacturers from legal action...

    Dumbcluck (I'm getting to like my new name!)
  5. hpept

    hpept Member

    i'm using a nail cutter to score paper, exactly that sort of file blade used to clean under the nails. I know it's not exactly handy as it's very tedious expecially when i have to score alot of lines. In the past i've used a screwdriver with a dull blade, i've used the blunt side of a scissor and all did their work, so for me it's not an issue, i can use everything that doesn't cut the paper. About the cracking of the printed side even if reverse scoring, my personal experience tells me that it may depend on several reasons: a "heavy" scoring, the use of laser printer toner (which is dry and only hot pressed over the paper, so it tends to flock away) or a fragile kind of paper which cracks instead of bending. Hope this helps.
  6. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    All of the listed items are great..........the true answer is whatever you get confortable with. Personally I took an old X-acto blade and hit it on a whet stone to remove the sharp edge, put it in a different colored handle (so I know it's my scorer) and it works just like my knife,....comfortable to my hand.

    I think hpept might have it right on the cracking...........laser toner is bad about flaking when bent, and certain papers do not like being folded against their grain. If it's the toner, get an ink-jet, if the paper, try another brand/weight.


    Personally...........I like wunwinglow better!:twisted:
  7. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Speaking from total ignorance I think you're after a fairly shallow embossing of the surface to represent the way the fabric of WW1 aircraft sagged between
    the ribs. I think embossing tools would be one of the better options for this.

    To get the emboss lines in the right place check out the thread:
    suggests a simple way to work from the back of the card without a light box.


  8. Redwulf

    Redwulf Member

    Thanks guys,
    I think I found the major problem. It was what I had underneath when I was scoring. I tried again and used my "nutcraking" pick and put my piece on top of a file folder (soft) and scored. That made a very nice line. I originally thought something hard was the way to go. I had it on a hard table top or the hard plastic cutting board. That caused what looked like tearing. With the soft folder underneath it really made a nice line. I assume it allowed the piece to "push out".

    I'll try to post some pictures of the project so far. Now I need to figure out the best way to color in the cut edges.
  9. josve

    josve Active Member

    Thin knitting needles does the trick of scoring :)
    They come in a wide range of different thicknesses and are very cheap to get (since most of the wifes have them in a basket somewhere)
    I make a handgrip made of insulation tape.
  10. bfam4t6

    bfam4t6 Member

    Hey Redwolf. I'm glad you've had good luck with scoring now, but if you're still needing variations in tools I sometimes use (among the others already listed) a dull table/butter knife. I use it more than anything else to when scoring. Also, I personally like to color all of my cut edges with water color paints. The reason they work so well is because you can mix them until the colors match perfectly. The only trick is to mix the color with LOTS of pigment and as little water as needed. Sometimes you can even let the mixture dry out a bit before applying it to get a nice thick coat that is very similar to acrylic.
  11. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    My mom just showed me something she bought the other day, it was a set of tools that score cut and perforate. They were shaped like lady bugs and in the head of each was a wheel about 1 inch in diameter that was either the cutter the scorer or the perforater. I think she bought them at Wal Mart really cheap.
  12. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    can you get a picture of the tool set?
    and ask Mom where she got it in the store?

    a Wally World opened this past tuesday here in Wilmington, i still need to visit the store.

  13. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Score vs. Burnish

    Scoring as I understand it, means to make a cut such that it only penetrates the surface but does not part the paper. Usually done with a dulled knife or similar instrument it allows paper to be bent sharply at the score line. Burnishing on the other hand is done by a ball end instrument against a flat, hard surface such as a pane of glass. The paper is crushed somewhat under the surface of the ball allowing the paper to curve (not bend) more easily along the burnished line. Doing several burnished lines at the leading edge of an airfoil does wonders in controlling the surface curvature.

  14. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    Here are the tools and as Gil points out one is a burnisher not a scorerer.

    They are called "Cutting Bugs" I think and can be had for about 8 bucks located in the craft dept of Wal Mart.


    Note the retractable head
  15. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    Those Cutting Bugs look interesting. :)

    I use a small crocheting hook that I enclosed in a piece of scrap wood to make it easier to handle. Instead of a hard surface the page is placed on a piece of stiff cardboard from the back of a pad of paper. It provides enough cushion to allow an embossed line that allows for an easy fold without exposing the color of the cardstock along the fold line. I also color the edges of the pieces before assembly. It seems to work out better that way. :)

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