Scenic Ridge with Ballasted/Weathered Unitrack

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by retroguy1953, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. wickman

    wickman Member

    I just fell into your thread. I am utterly amazed at what a fantastic job you did on the layout buildings trackwork ...everything. I really enjoyed reading all your tips. Can I just ask you one err maybe a couple questions? I'm about to start a couple DPM kits for my layout the Harley and Son and the salloon. Can you give provide any tips or tricks you came across as you built your DPM's such as type of paint that worked best weathering methods what was best order to build\paint type of glue as well to glue it all together? All your info is greatly appreciated .:wave:
  2. retroguy1953

    retroguy1953 New Member

    Painting tips

    Hi Lynn.

    Thanks for the compliments.

    For the most part, I used "Tamiya Color For Aircraft" spray paint on the buildings. I used can spray paint, as I do not have an airbrush. They are Japanese, very high quality flat finish, and very muted colors. I tried to use a different color on every building so the town would look more natural. I did brushwork using Model Master military Camo colors. Again, they dried flat, and have soft color appearance. I used Faller Super Expert plastic cement. I highly reccomend this glue. It is in an orange bottle and has a 2" thin metal applicator tube. It squirts out very thin - almost like water, so you can control it's application with precision. It seems to soften the plastic on contact, and pieces can be glued flush with no glue squirting out of the joints.

    Years ago, I always heavily weathered buildings by brushing a light or dark wash of mostly thinner with a pinch of colored enamel. Then I dry brushed contrasting colors, and this really brought out the brickwork. For this particular layout, I didn't want the buildings to look old an delapidated - I wanted them to look nicely maintained. So I used a very light wash with thinner and a dash of gray enamel. I then very lightly dusted the buildings with Bar Mills weathering powder - very lightly.

    I added curtains to the buildings - simply scrap pieces of white styrene that I glued to the clear plastic windows. I suppose one could color or put patterns on the curtains, but I didn't think the benefit was worth the extra work. Maybe if one or two particulary prominent buildings are right at the very front of the layout, this might make sense.

    One of the members suggested that it would be a good idea to put black paper over a few windows so that it would not look like all the lights were on in the building. If I had thought about it, I would have done that but it's a bit too late now.

    I used a variety of brushes - some thicker, some tapered, some ultra thin. I bought about 8 good quality brushes at the hobby store and didn't scrimp. Some of these brushes were $6 each or so. When hand brushing, I sat RELAXED in a reclining chair that supported both my elbows. I held the model in my left hand, and the brush in my right hand. I found that with my elbows supported, it was possible to control very small movements, and if you keep just the right amount of paint on the brush you can get pretty precise. Keeping your body relaxed and moving the brush slowly is the key. After a little practice, painting the windows and ledges becomes pretty easy. If you slop some paint by accident, do one of two things - remove the spot quickly with a clean brush soaking in thinner, or wait until it dries and paint the original base color over the accident.

    In terms of sequence, assemble the complete building (except for the roof) and spray paint the whole thing. Hand brush the accents. Spray the roof. Attach any accent details such as decals, fire escapes, signs, TV antennas, air conditioners, etc. Lightly weather the building, and weather the roof. Attach the roof to the structure, and mount any internal lighting. I used my computer printer to print out tiny photographs of building interiors and I glued them inside the buildings on the ground floor - so when looking through the ground floor picture windows it would not look like an empty building.

    Mount the complete building on a painted and weathered styrene sidewalk. Drill holes in the layout for the lighting wires, thread the wires through conduit, attach the styrene sidewalk to the layout by glue.

    Hope you find the tips helpful.


  3. wickman

    wickman Member

    Thanks Doug
    No such thing as a bad tip :thumb:

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