Scenery base question

Discussion in 'Getting Started' started by Kevinkrey, Sep 9, 2007.

  1. Kevinkrey

    Kevinkrey Member

    I am using pink insulation board for my scenery base but the pieces I cut to match the layout did not join together properly, leaving gaps between the pieces? What can I use to fill the gaps between the pieces? The gaps are not huge, 1/4"-3/4" at most
  2. Gary S.

    Gary S. Senior Member

    Those are actually some pretty big gaps. Do you have any left-over foam? Cut that to fit and glue'er in is my suggestion. For smaller gaps, I have been using cheap latex caulk.
  3. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

    Anything rigid like plaster will tend to crack or shrink away from the foam if used on large gaps. I like the above suggestion.
  4. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Woodland Scenics makes a tub of foam that dries to about the same consistency as the extruded polystyrene. I use it for small imperfections -- like where the cat chewed on it. I don't think its economical for large gaps.
    If the foam is held firmly in place, you could just start covering it with paper towel and your scenery base.
  5. nachoman

    nachoman Guest

    You could also try the cans of "great stuff" insulating foam sold in home centers.

  6. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    rather than patch the gaps, why not enlarge them, slope the sides, and make a river out of it?
  7. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    You can also use "lightweight spackle" or "lightweight joint compund". I am pretty sure it is the same stuff. Dries to a foam-like consistency, rather than hard like plaster. You'll know you have the right container when you pick it up, because it's about 1/4 the weight of the premixed drywall compound.

    I like the suggestion of "Great Stuff" expanding foam too, since it will help to stick the pieces together. However, it will also stick to just about anything else, so cover what you don't want "stuck"... ;)

  8. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    Yeah, Unless I slept through that part of the scenery class, foam is the modern replacement for cardboard strips, and screen, or crumpled up newspaper! It is the rough form of the final scene, which is done with plaster cloth, and hydrocal (plaster), or paper towels dipped in hydrocal. Finer detail can be added at any time after that, like ponds, rockwork, etc.. Foam buildups can also be added to change the scene as required, which are then also covered with plastercloth,or paper towels, and hydrocal.
    :oops: I am assuming that there is structural support under the foam.
  9. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    3/4" is quite a gap. I had the same problem, but the biggest gap is about 1/8".
    I was able to fill that gap using GAP Kwickseal tub and tile adhesive caulk.
    For a bigger gap, I would suggest to fill it the best you could with Sculptamold ( papier maché ), and allow it to dry for a few days ( of course it'll shrink a little ) .Then finish to close and seal the gap with the Kwickseal.

    Here is a pic of what I did:
  10. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    If you choose to go with something like Biased turkey's method using caulk, choose a paintable caulk to make scenicking/painting/landscaping easier.

  11. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    From the instruction notice about the DAP Kwickseal:
    "Allow to dry at least 2 hours before painting with latex or oil-based paints"
    So it shouldn't be a problem.

  12. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Thanks for clarifying that the Kwikseal is paintable - I wasn't sure :oops: But my point was basically if one does not choose that exact brand, do be sure to get something paintable...


  13. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    I agree 100% with you Andrew that any selected caulk should be paintable . I just wanted to confirm that the Kwickseal caulk is. And as far as I know the DAP brand is very common in US and here in Canada.

    Good point Andrew


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