Scanning parts

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by cardmodeler, Nov 21, 2006.

  1. cardmodeler

    cardmodeler Member

    I am having a problem with my scanner and/or printer. When I scan a kit part that I have goofed up and print it out, the colors are off. Is there a way to tell if it's the printer or the scanner that's not reproducing colors correctly? I would hate to have to trash a model because I messed one part up; unfortunately, a very important part. Is it considered bad form to reproduce parts to facilitate completion of the model? Thanks for any input on this.
  2. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    I don't know how to fix your color snafu. If it were me, I would "repaint" the part with a paint program until the color is acceptable.
    Bad form? No, I don't think so...unless you cannot break free of "rules".
  3. Sumato

    Sumato Member

    One easy way to solve this problem is to scan ALL of the model parts before you build, and print them for the model. This may seem a bit seedy, but should be perfectly OK for your own personal use. That way all color corrections done by your scanner/software/printer will be exactly the same. And you have the additional benefit of an unending supply of replacement parts.
  4. 46rob

    46rob Member

    Sumato's right--that's the best way to go for most models. Unfortunately, though--it won't reproduce metalic inks worth o just have to make choices.....or don't screw up. Ever. That's why I like the downloadable stuff best.
  5. Ashrunner

    Ashrunner Member

    Part of the problem you have encountered is a problem with digital graphics on the whole. The best way to fix the problem is also the most expensive...purchase hardware and develop color ICC profiles for the scanner, monitor and printer. The gear required to do that costs upwards of $1,000 or more.

    The cheapest way, but not the best way, is to make sure each and every program you use, uses the same color space. MACs are not too much of a problem in this regard as the entire system is set up to color manage, but Windows PC has problems. Windows will normally set its one ICC profile, the monitor will run on it and it is generally the sRBG. Right click on the desktop and go to Properties, then Settings. There, click the Advance box and open the Color Management Tab. If there is no profile listed, click on Add and select sRBG or AdobeRBG(1998 ) and apply it. I use AdobeRBG(1998 ) as it is the best ICC profile to use for color images. sRBG is good for web use and for the most part, best matches the color range a cathod ray tube monitor can show.

    Once you have selected that, you now need to check the options selection of ALL the graphic programs you have, including scanning software. If the software is worth its salt, somewhere in the options selections is one for color management. Go to that tab and select the ICC profile you selected for your monitor and save it. When you have provided profile information for all of your programs, restart your system. After the restart, your color information will all be working on the same page.

    You won't be color managed at this point, but you will at least be working with the same ICC profile throughout your graphics workflow. The colors won't may or may not be exactly the same, but they should be close.

    One other point to make in this regard. I know printing card models uses a lot of ink and refilling is a popular way to go. Manufacturers of printers match their inks to the gamut the printer can print. Use of refilling inks will change this capability of the printer. Your refilled yellow might be just a bit on the orange side than the manufacturers yellow. If that is the case, then all the colors will be off somewhat.

    If you are really serious about matching colors using refill inks, develop a color chart of say, RLM colors or the 30000 series of FS colors and save it. Then print that chart, scan it and compare the two side-by-side. By running the Color Picker tool of most graphics programs over the same color and recording its RGB value, you can develop a chart of off-set to use to match the colors when you go from scanner to printer. I have done that in the past when I wanted things to match. It's a lot of work, but in the end was worth it.
  6. xyberz

    xyberz Member

    Wow that is a lot of work! For someone who may be replacing pieces because of a mistake would not really be worth it.

    I have a suggestion, albeit not being the best but it may work out in some situations better than other.

    Scan your part in black and white at a very high resolution. Remember the lower the resolution the lower the pixel count.
    Then import the picture into a good graphic editing program such as Photoshop. There are very good free ones out there, but you have to do a search for them.
    I like to use Photoshop because there are a lot of good and free extensions you can add on that will do a lot of the work for you.
    Then try to recolor the part by hand. It will be difficult though if it's say a camouflage piece.

    Good luck on that though.
  7. Sumato

    Sumato Member

    I have done what xyberz reccomends a couple of times myself. It actually does work quite well. You can really clean up a model that way. I would convert it into a black/white bitmap, then back to 24 bit color to do the repaint. It takes a little time, but you will be able to make a nice crisp print of the model when you are done.
  8. phlipmbirner

    phlipmbirner Member

    As others have stated I make a scan of the model I build for the purpose of emergency parts when I mess up the original part.

    As you have discovered when it comes time to make that emergency part from your scan, the color is off. I then take it to Photoshop (I have Adobe Photoshop 6.0) and try to get its color close to what the original kit part looked like. If the part is only one color I can usually get it very close. It gets a whole lot more complicated the more colors you have in the part. If you have the bad fortune of messing up a multi-colored-grey-hued camouflage part there is nothing I can say to help you.

    I usually try to cut out and deal only with the one part I am recopying because I know it will be a trial and error process and I hate wasting the ink. As for the paper I can usually reposition the part and shove the same peice of cardstock through the printer again on the second or third try and if that fails turn the paper peice over. Photoshop seems to have an infinite number of ways to affect the color on the piece and being a beginner in the whole process it takes me a while. I've had the good fortune of only messing up tiny one color pieces on my truck model and even though the color is not spot on, after one try I usually am content with the result because any color discrepencies disappear because of the location or smallness of the peice.
  9. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    On a more basic newbie note, what DPI should one scan a kit booklet at? At what point does it become overkill?

  10. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    Most use 300/360 dpi. You can never have enough resolution but may run out of patience, time or memory.

  11. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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