Looks like a nice sailing ship model:
http://www.sdmaritime.org/shop/san-salvador-collection/downloadsansalvadormodel.html?options=cart
http://www.sdmaritime.org/shop/san-salvador-collection/downloadsansalvadormodel.html?options=cart
San Salvador Ship
- Thread starter ARMORMAN
- Start date
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Zathros
An excellent find. I remember when they announced they were going to release it, but I missed it. Thanks!! It's a great model, I don't know why they did the hull like that, I am very tempted to do it right as they have it 85% right (picayune, I know). There is incredible potential to this model. Built as it is, it would make quite a mantle piece! 
Sorry but I have a neophyte question, what is wrong with the hull?
Note that I haven't downloaded the model yet as I am on mobile
Note that I haven't downloaded the model yet as I am on mobile
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Zathros
Nothing really, but, well, really, I am Being picayune. The hull is made by using vertical piece instead of horizontal. These lines break the flow of the ship, which is actually quite fair, and I am surprised the designer did not take this into consideration. Real wooden ships are not made this way. It would be very simple to take this model and making the horizontal planking that would take it to the next level. This could be done a couple of ways. If you don't have the software, you make the hull as show, then trace out each plank and lay them over the ones on the hull. Breaking the hull lines to form the staggered lengths, these line breaks happen at the formers. Other than that, just some deck clutter, and you're good to go.
I did a quick and dirty illustration which shows only 1 line break, there should be two or3 even 4 or 5 per plank, depending on where it curves, the more radical the curve, the more breaks, you can only steam and bend wood so much. Leaving the break going down the side of the model render I provided shows the problem that occurs when you have all the planks lined on one spot. In a paper model, most of those planks could be done with one piece, and a wood texture applied to give the simulation of the other breaks not necessary to complete the model. if you just staggered the breaks on the formers, making sure that no two planks had seams next to each other, further apart is better, for strength on a real boat, the desired result would be achieved. The graphic applied to the boat model tells you were each split should occur, so the template on the actual model is there. This is why I wonder why the designer did not go the extra step and knock the model out of the Ball Park. He hit a triple though, just a walk would make a home run of a model.
Like I said, I am being picayune, but in reality, when you spend 40 or 50 hrs. making something, and the same exact amount of time would yield a more accurate result, wouldn't you prefer to to achieve an accurate, "head nodding in approval by people who know how boats are made", kind of result, for the same time ventured? Nothing ventured, nothing lost, but sometimes, nothing gained either.
I did a quick and dirty illustration which shows only 1 line break, there should be two or3 even 4 or 5 per plank, depending on where it curves, the more radical the curve, the more breaks, you can only steam and bend wood so much. Leaving the break going down the side of the model render I provided shows the problem that occurs when you have all the planks lined on one spot. In a paper model, most of those planks could be done with one piece, and a wood texture applied to give the simulation of the other breaks not necessary to complete the model. if you just staggered the breaks on the formers, making sure that no two planks had seams next to each other, further apart is better, for strength on a real boat, the desired result would be achieved. The graphic applied to the boat model tells you were each split should occur, so the template on the actual model is there. This is why I wonder why the designer did not go the extra step and knock the model out of the Ball Park. He hit a triple though, just a walk would make a home run of a model.
Like I said, I am being picayune, but in reality, when you spend 40 or 50 hrs. making something, and the same exact amount of time would yield a more accurate result, wouldn't you prefer to to achieve an accurate, "head nodding in approval by people who know how boats are made", kind of result, for the same time ventured? Nothing ventured, nothing lost, but sometimes, nothing gained either.
Attachments
At first I was confused as to your statement about horizontal hull planking. I downloaded the plans and I see what you mean. The hull is made with sections cut vertically. The same as you, I would probably do a version of long horizontal planking using the idea from Doris Sovereign of the Seas, or HMS Victory, and use that adhesive back wood shelf liner. Over all it looks like a good build. I may have to increase the size and make it out of wood. It lends itself to be a great mantle showcase piece.
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Zathros
I think you are the only person I know of who could have their name and Doris's of the Sovereign of the High Seas in the same sentence! I too think that this model has the makings of an excellent mantle piece. I also take comfort in your statement, I was hoping I did not seem ungracious. The adhesive backed wood shelf liner was something I had forgotten about, Hmmm. Between this, and the Isolda, and my 28" Inch Lilla Weneda model, that would definitely fill my fireplace mantle!
is there another thread with more talk about this adhesive liner. While I understood Zathros's explanation that got me confused again.
Sorry if I am being obtuse, but I am thinking that when I tire of the warhammer stuff this looks like a nice project. Specially since the instructions are nice and clear.
Sorry if I am being obtuse, but I am thinking that when I tire of the warhammer stuff this looks like a nice project. Specially since the instructions are nice and clear.
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Zathros
It's the stuff you use to line drawers in kitchen cabinets. It comes in fake wood textures printed on them. It was called "contact paper" when I was growing up. Here is a Google search results I did. Asking questions is never obtuse.
http://www.google.com/search?num=10...pw.r_qf.&fp=9cc2330d528da261&biw=1920&bih=890
http://www.google.com/search?num=10...pw.r_qf.&fp=9cc2330d528da261&biw=1920&bih=890
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Zathros
Well, I have been working on longitudinal planks for this. Maybe it could be useful. I should have something in a couple of days, depending how bad the storm hits us!
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Zathros
I would assume, that you would build the model as is, and then use the long planking over the existing hull. This will serve as a good adhesion point for the contact sheet. Would like to see some work on this. I am too tied up with projects at the moment to attempt it.
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Zathros
I would leave that up to the builder. Personally, I would laminate these to thicker cardboard. I would consider cutting the formers back to make up for the difference. The reason I would do this is to achieved a hull with the texture of the real ships hull, and this would be helped along by doing the planks on thick cardboard, fitting them as necessary. Many of these ships had Oakum hammered between the planks to water proof them. I am really tempted to make them slightly thicker to allow for some fitting, but they will need that in any event, ships done this way do. These are not guaranteed a perfect fit, so one should anticipate these kinds of adjustments. There are too many variables to guarantee a "perfect fit".
My Printer isn't working....it just sits there staring at me, and won't print out this model. -.-
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Zathros
Bummer. I'd advise on an Epson Workforce 1100, I have been beating the snot out of mine and it's holding up will. I also know where to get O.E.M. seriously cheap for these. It doesn't have a scanner, but any old printer with a built in will work, even the printer part is broken, they're easy to get.
A simpler version was just posted at the same location....
Zath, Why has your printer turned to a life of crime?
Zath, Why has your printer turned to a life of crime?
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Zathros
My printer is innocent of all the accusations against it. It isn't the printer that commits the crime, it's the printee. Will will not be freed till ransom is paid.
I think the subject was on making the "complicated" version just a bit more complicated, to enhance it's detail.
I think the subject was on making the "complicated" version just a bit more complicated, to enhance it's detail.
The easier version instructions are really good, with suggestions on simple upgrades to make the model look more advanced.
Beard
Beard