Rural Agents Pty Ltd
- Thread starter Woodie
- Start date
Because I folded it over (looped), it keeps trying to "bulge" back into a loop. Perhaps some double sided tape might do it. Gotta be careful about the "glue" residue sticking to the walls though.
Oh.... put some windows and doors in. They are the actual windows and doors (pics taken and reduced)... if you look closely.. you can see me taking the pics in the reflection in the doorway!!!
Gettin' better all the time, with the new camera too. Attachments
Nice to see the progress you are making Woodie. That sure is a nice structure. Scratchbuilding is a real joy but frustrating at times. The real benefit is as you are doing by making a model of an existing building for which there is no kit available.
That's a terrific job you're making of that structure Woodie. With the photos you have of the actual building I can see it turning out to be a masterpiece. You're modelling is of an extremely high standard ... beautifully done sir!
Like Robin said, it gives one a warm feeling having a model of something that exists and there's no kit fot it.
You just gotta show us more of your progress too.
Errol
Like Robin said, it gives one a warm feeling having a model of something that exists and there's no kit fot it.
You just gotta show us more of your progress too.
Errol
Hi Woodie,
What about Woodlans Scenics' Accent Glue (Part #A198)? It is advertised as being useful for sticking figures to scenes, but allowing them to be relocated without residue or further gluing?
I have not used it myself, but sound a bit like the glue from "Post-It" notes.
Andrew
Woodie:
The attached drawing, sorry about the quality, i either draw in AutoCad or Paint and paint is not much of a program. Anyway, if you can obtain a brass or plastic "C" channel the right size, how about using straight pins out the back of the door as "rollers" to run in your overhead sliding door "track". Once in place the doors should stay put because they're trapped between the track and the wall.
Regards,
Ted
The attached drawing, sorry about the quality, i either draw in AutoCad or Paint and paint is not much of a program. Anyway, if you can obtain a brass or plastic "C" channel the right size, how about using straight pins out the back of the door as "rollers" to run in your overhead sliding door "track". Once in place the doors should stay put because they're trapped between the track and the wall.
Regards,
Ted
Attachments
Accent Glue
Re: WS Accent Glue
I have used it for a few things. Some of them can be moved after applying, but it is stronger than Homasote -- takes the top layer right off and you have to peel paper from the glue. I'll test it a bit more and report. It can be removed from the object (like rubber cement) so you don't ruin the collectability too much. You would probably ruin your doors trying to move them.
Re: WS Accent Glue
I have used it for a few things. Some of them can be moved after applying, but it is stronger than Homasote -- takes the top layer right off and you have to peel paper from the glue. I'll test it a bit more and report. It can be removed from the object (like rubber cement) so you don't ruin the collectability too much. You would probably ruin your doors trying to move them.
Some more progress will be coming soon, guys. Dunno bout your LHS, but mine has taken more than two weeks to get some "currugated iron" in, so I can complete it. Trouble is, the distributors/makers of the stuff is only 2 hours drive away, and I could nick up there for a nice arvo drive. and get it meself!
More pics coming soon. Watch this space.
and get it meself!More pics coming soon. Watch this space.
Re: Accent Glue
David: Thanks for the additional information on the "removability" of this glue! Guess it would work better on white metal or plastic stuck to plastic, rather than a weathered/painted surface (?).
Andrew
David: Thanks for the additional information on the "removability" of this glue! Guess it would work better on white metal or plastic stuck to plastic, rather than a weathered/painted surface (?).
Andrew
Glue?
I've probably done the absolute "no no". The doors have a "frame" on the back of them to keep the right depth and look from the main building.
I...... um......... put a dob of "Zapit" (superglue) on the frame bit and glued the doors to the wall.
Should I have done this?
Oh well... we live and learn I suppose.
I've probably done the absolute "no no". The doors have a "frame" on the back of them to keep the right depth and look from the main building.
I...... um......... put a dob of "Zapit" (superglue) on the frame bit and glued the doors to the wall.
Should I have done this?
Oh well... we live and learn I suppose.
It's taken a while.... been vusy with lots of other things, but have now made a bit more progress.
Rural Agents now has a rear section, a roof, and some detailing.
A little bit more detailing, some finishing off, and weathering will see it complete.
Don't worry about the tree. It's there for decoration only.
Rural Agents now has a rear section, a roof, and some detailing.
A little bit more detailing, some finishing off, and weathering will see it complete.
Don't worry about the tree. It's there for decoration only.
Attachments
Woodie you have done an outstanding job on this building!!! As for the contents of the cage what did the real one have in it? Over here it would most likely be propane (gas) tanks.
Lookin' good Woodie. Could also have some oxygen and acetylene bottles for welding stored in the lock up
If you do oxygen and acetylene bottles, you need two separate cages with space in between. At our shop oxygen and acetylene bottles are stored on opposite sides of a concrete tilt up wall @ 12 inches thick.