Discussion in 'Gallery & Designs' started by ThunderChild, Dec 16, 2007.
Thx for your gift, I will make it before christmas day this year!
Getter1 and rapierdragon: Thanks for all the inputs throughout the course of this project. A real inspiration and motivator!
rapierdragon: Fine looking model! Some parts do look familiar...
Everyone, just to prove that this project hasn't completely stalled, here are 2 screengrabs of the SDF1 v.3 design.
After a little soul searching and a lot of consideration, I decided to go with G1's design idea concerning the leg-transformation part, but made some changes to the application.
Weather or not I succeed still remains to be seen, But I feel confident that my most pressing design-concerns have been solved. Don't worry if you can't make out heads-or-tails of the images, they're just a quick update...
Lookin great there TC Much more refined
Lets Bump this...
Not the Transformable one yet, but hey, can't have everything at once... :mrgreen:
Within the coming week, watch this space...
This is an awesome model, what was the estimated build time? I was also wondering if you can tell a newbie like me what is the best paper to buid on? I was thinkg about buying some Wausau Exact Gloss, 80# card stock, but perhaps a slightly thinner cardstock is best? Thanks for the hard work!
Not sure if it has been mentioned, but the old Robotech RPG books (Palladium Books) were crammed full of line drawings and schematic views of the various Mecha (including the SDF and other big vehicles).
paper I use, my tape trick, other info
Wow, haven't checked back in months.
-- about paper I use --
Uh, I usually use the heaver grade of regular ink-jet paper (the slightly cheaper stuff tends to jam in my printer, nevermind the ink-runs, smears, and poor form-holding).
If you check the weight it's usually in the bottom corner of a pack of 500 sheets. (if you're not sure or it doesn't say anything other than it's for inkjet, pick up 2 different 500-sheet packs and whichever physically seems to be heavier is the one you want). An individual sheet might not seem any different, but a 500-sheet pack can weight anything from 3 lbs (pounds) to 13 lbs more.
Usually I buy my paper at Staples Business Depot. I buy the Staples brand paper for inkjets (currently it's a purple package with yellow corners). It's a nice bright white paper of a sturdy weight (it can really hold a lot of ink before it hits that "wet and floppy" point). Usually runs in the range of 500 pages for $10 to $23 depending on if its on sale.
-- about glossy paper, card-stock, or large "page size" photo paper --
-- and about cleaning, dusting, protecting --
I find most of these fancy printer papers are a waste for paper-models.
Glossy paper is great for photos, but get it wet in the slightest and the image is ruined. It's good for a backdrop (if you want a background) but for models, it's kind of pricey (and a waste if you use my cheap "tape trick" below) and unless you do my tape trick, you can only clean it with a dry cloth or tissue (cause even months later, all it takes is a drop of water to ruin the ink-job).
Card stock is great for interior pieces or heavy-duty support, but some brands don't hold ink well (or can't hold a lot before getting "wet and floppy") and then while you can use my "tape trick" to protect the ink/image, you're basically spending 10X the money for 1/10th of the paper. If you're doing a large-scale project, like say, a paper-model of a 4 foot tall rocket, its great for major internal supports and even exterior supports, but it's still pretty pricey. It also doesn't fold well (unless you score the fold lines with a blade).
Large "page size" Photo-paper may hold lots of ink well (cause it's meant for photos) but too suffers from a vulnerablility to the slightest bit of water/wetness along with a fairly high price (and then if you tape it on-top to protect, well, you're really wasting money cause card-stock with the tape-trick looks cheap compared to this stuff. It also doesn't fold well (unless you score the fold lines with a blade).
By using my tape trick (below) you can extend the life of your paper models by years (possibly decades) and you can EVEN CLEAN YOUR MODELS with a slightly (non-dripping) cloth becaus the tape will act like a moisture barrier.
I've actually gotten the trick down to an art-form such that many of my models have the look, feel, and safe-to-clean type ability of an actual plastic (or resin) model.
I mean imagine, you've spend hours building a fancy space-ship and hang it up for display... a few weeks later it's coated in dust to the point the top looks faded. If you just used paper or glossy paper or even photo-paper, taking a damp cloth to it will pretty well destroy it (or at least shorten it's life-span). Even if the ink doesn't run, the paper will draw-in and absorb enough moisure to start it going moldy. Or likewise, you (or someone) happen to be looking in its direction and SNEEZE! Once that surface gets moisture on it, it's going to discolor (you'll see 'water marks' and such.)
But use my tape trick, and ta-da, your model is basically coated in a layer of plastic, keeping the ink and paper within safely dry and safe.
-- my "use tape to make it glossy" trick --
To prevent give mine a nice glossy-look, and to make cleaning easier (nevermind protecting from the odd water-drop spill) I coat the surface with a layer of clear super-strength tape (the 2" wide type is usually better since it requires less work) with the various strips of tape overlaping at the edge by about 1/32" to 1/16".
A 2" roll (100m or 100 yard long roll) can cost anythng from $3 to $8 (depending on its clearness, brand, size, single or multi-pack, etc). Usually you can buy a single roll on a re-useable dispenser for $5 and then buy a 2 or 4 roll multi-pack for the same price.
Don't bother using the dispenser or tape-gun to apply the tape (usually results in wrinkles, air-pockets, poor-control over one strip overlapping another, etc). I use the dispenser/gun to hold the tape and manually pull off a 2"x2" to 2"x8" strip and then carefully place the tape onto the printed paper after it has dried.
If you really need strength, do both sides of the paper. Taping the back side is also a great way to glue two or more sheets together without getting that "wet glue discoloring" that tends to happen.
Only after coating parts with tape do I attempt to score them with a blade (or cut them out to fold/assemble).
The up-side to doing this is, as I said, any accidental exposure to water won't instantly cause a discoloration (even larger spills get their damage minimized cause the water will only seep in and get the paper wet at the very edges). The protective layer also lets you use a slightly-damp cloth to wipe down the model from time to time to clear off dust, and gives the model a slightly firmer feel, holds shape better and longer, helps protect from accidental drops, etc.
The down-side is naturally the time it takes to apply the tape, applying it smoothly (no air-pockets/wrinkles), rubbing it on with your finger-nails, cost of the tape, and so on.
So test builds when designing are usually better done without this tape-coating trick, and then once I'm sure a part is the right size, shape, and color, do I prepare a "for keeps" version that gets the treatment.
All depends really on how long you plan on keeping the model out for display (or keeping it period. Some of my older ship models are nearing the 10 years old point, and those that I did this tape-trick to are still "almost like new" whereas the others (that wheren't done) have long-since gone trash.
Ive also been a fan of robotech and this is so amazing... I like the hobby of making paper models and thanks for showing your work...just amazing I say!
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