any one out there have experience got a 500 watt unit and i am having trouble with it making contact .my questions are what typ of solder , what flux and what do you use to clean tips ?
resistance soldering
- Thread starter jim currie
- Start date
Jim
I've been wanting to build on of those and ned to get some answers too.
I saw a web site that showed how to build and use one but can't find it now.
I've been wanting to build on of those and ned to get some answers too.
I saw a web site that showed how to build and use one but can't find it now.
I found it. check these out. hope they help.
[http://www.tyler.net/drspiff/electronics/resistance.htm#Transformer]
[http://www.bdsonline.net/brunelmodels/soldering/rstalk.htm]
[http://www.tyler.net/drspiff/electronics/resistance.htm#Transformer]
[http://www.bdsonline.net/brunelmodels/soldering/rstalk.htm]
Clark
it is soldering method different than using an iron what i have done so far it makes soldering a lot easer and no hot iron on bench to burn or melt.
it is soldering method different than using an iron what i have done so far it makes soldering a lot easer and no hot iron on bench to burn or melt.
Jim
What are you using at the business end, a probe or tweezer?
I use a tweezer-like unit.
I simply grab the item between the tips, put the rosin core solder against the rail, and hit the foot switch for a couple seconds...and its done.
Other than that, you follow standard soldering practices of cleaning the material to be soldered, and using rosin core solder for electrical work, and rosin or non-corrosive flux if needed.
The other trick is to determine how much power to use. I try to use the minimum power to do the job. Too little and the heat spreads beyond the working area. Too much and you might melt the metal you want to solder. I can't remember but there was a reason for not using too much power.
What are you using at the business end, a probe or tweezer?
I use a tweezer-like unit.
I simply grab the item between the tips, put the rosin core solder against the rail, and hit the foot switch for a couple seconds...and its done.
Other than that, you follow standard soldering practices of cleaning the material to be soldered, and using rosin core solder for electrical work, and rosin or non-corrosive flux if needed.
The other trick is to determine how much power to use. I try to use the minimum power to do the job. Too little and the heat spreads beyond the working area. Too much and you might melt the metal you want to solder. I can't remember but there was a reason for not using too much power.
Gary
i have fixed split point small and medium, two twezers one small points one carbon ends and a probe that has 1/8 or 1/4 carbons.have two units one 100 watt the other is 80 to 500 watt.
my problem is loss of contact =no heat what do use to clean tips and how often?found one web page that recomended 63 37 solder also got a stainless plate to solder on ,have been experminting on heat have good soldering skills with conventional irons, biggest problem is still flux on tips.
i have fixed split point small and medium, two twezers one small points one carbon ends and a probe that has 1/8 or 1/4 carbons.have two units one 100 watt the other is 80 to 500 watt.
my problem is loss of contact =no heat what do use to clean tips and how often?found one web page that recomended 63 37 solder also got a stainless plate to solder on ,have been experminting on heat have good soldering skills with conventional irons, biggest problem is still flux on tips.
Hi Jim, When using resistance soldering you do not want to to touch the solder to the tip as you would using a convential iron. The object is to heat the work in a concentrated area and apply the solder to the work keeping the tip out of the solder. If the location of the work is particuarly "tight" try pulling the tip away from the work just as you touch the solder to it. If done quickly enough the joint area will remain hot enough to make the solder joint. As with any soldering it just takes practice.
Low or no heat results from poor electrical contact either between the tip and the work or the ground clip and the work. Make sure that the pieces to be joined are clean,shiny and oil free. The place where you attach the ground clip should be the same way. You also want to make sure that the pieces to be joined have a good mechanical contact with each other. Sometimes this involves using weight or clamps or in the case of detail parts very tight fit mounting holes. When mounting detail parts on a brass engine boiler (such as a bell with a mounting post) I like to heat the part from the top and solder it on the opposite side and when the joint has cooled clip off the post that protudes in to the boiler shell.
You might want to consider using Tix Solder and Tix Flux(a liquid) as it does not make the mess that rosin core solder does. Do not use Tix for electrical work. It is not an electrical solder. The flux is acid based. Tix Flux can be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water and this is reccomended after soldering with it.
I'm sure that you know that you don't use resistance soldering for soldering electronic components as the high heat and high current flowing thru them will damage them.
Hope this helped.
Low or no heat results from poor electrical contact either between the tip and the work or the ground clip and the work. Make sure that the pieces to be joined are clean,shiny and oil free. The place where you attach the ground clip should be the same way. You also want to make sure that the pieces to be joined have a good mechanical contact with each other. Sometimes this involves using weight or clamps or in the case of detail parts very tight fit mounting holes. When mounting detail parts on a brass engine boiler (such as a bell with a mounting post) I like to heat the part from the top and solder it on the opposite side and when the joint has cooled clip off the post that protudes in to the boiler shell.
You might want to consider using Tix Solder and Tix Flux(a liquid) as it does not make the mess that rosin core solder does. Do not use Tix for electrical work. It is not an electrical solder. The flux is acid based. Tix Flux can be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water and this is reccomended after soldering with it.
I'm sure that you know that you don't use resistance soldering for soldering electronic components as the high heat and high current flowing thru them will damage them.
Hope this helped.
thanks Vic
i dont use probe much yet use fixed split points the most have tried several different solder's have been using a paste flus meant for copper pipes for genral soldering but flux still tends to coat the stanless tip both rosin and acid do you use tweezers at all if so how often and with what do you clean them with.
i dont use probe much yet use fixed split points the most have tried several different solder's have been using a paste flus meant for copper pipes for genral soldering but flux still tends to coat the stanless tip both rosin and acid do you use tweezers at all if so how often and with what do you clean them with.