Discussion in 'FAQs' started by babydot94513, Oct 29, 2002.

  1. babydot94513

    babydot94513 Member in training

    What is the easiest way to remove and renumber a locomotive?

    I made a rookie at super-detailing mistake by using an eraser to remove an engine number. Yep, looks like garbage but I can fix it.
    However, to avoid the same stupid mistake in the future, I need to know the proper way to deal with this.
  2. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    I think it may depend on brand, but I had success with the eraser after letting the lettering sit in a puddle of solvaset for several minutes. It worked very well on a LifeLike Northeastern caboose and Bowser boxcar. On an Athearn 2-8-2 the black dulled considerably but the lettering came off.

  3. Tankertoad70

    Tankertoad70 Member

    I have had the best success removing lettering by use of 600 grit sand paper. I gently 'wet sand' the lettering to be removed, and get a nice and smooth finish which is ready to accept the replacement lettering. I use Testor's Dullcoat, thinnned 50%, as a final overspray. ;) :D
  4. babydot94513

    babydot94513 Member in training

    Did some research on this and read some past discussion threads. I now know better.

    Bad modeler, I will now go to my room!
  5. Wolv33

    Wolv33 Member

    Don and Gary,

    On your methods when the numbering is completely off, do you have to retouch the paint before putting the new numbers on?

    I have had the WORST luck matching paint.

    I do realize a lot of roads when they renumber their own units the paint doesn't match, but I want to avoid repainting altogether.

    Thanks in advance.

  6. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    Hi wolv, With the Life Like hack, the lettering came off beautifully, no effect on the paint. The Bowser cars paint became a little flat. i just applied my new decal over, dull coated and weathered, you would never be able to tell. I was incorrect about the Athearn tender lettering, i had to use 600 paper to remove the lettering. I have not yet redecaled, I do not think I need to paint. Again, the finish became noticably flatter, I will gloss coat prior to applying new decals, then dullcote and weather, I doubt I'll have a problem.

  7. Tankertoad70

    Tankertoad70 Member

    If'n I'm really careful, I do not have to touch up the spot where I sanded off the lettering. I can never match paints either. After I apply the new lettering, a touch up of Dullcoat does the job and everything looks like 'gnu.':D ;)
  8. marty w.

    marty w. Member

    Thanks for the tip on 600 grit sandpaper.
    I never would have thunk dat.
    I tried it last night on a Atlas RS-3, worked great. I used alot of water and took my time using very light strokes.
  9. rockislandmike

    rockislandmike Active Member

    I like to use an eraser myself. Either gum or the pink type. The gum seems to work best when starting out, and the pink for finishing off. If there's lettering around that I wanna keep, I usually mask it off first.

    This almost always works great. In some cases there's a little extra wear, but once the unit's weathered it's not a problem. The one time I did have to repaint I got lucky. You can't even tell after weathering.

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