Removing clear matte finish???

Discussion in 'Weathering Forum' started by DixonRobertson, Apr 9, 2007.

  1. DixonRobertson

    DixonRobertson New Member

    hello all

    I made the mistake of using Krylon Odor Free Clear Matte to finish a weathered locomotive. It is described as an acrylic latex clear finish. (It may be a fine product but it was the wrong one for this application.) Whether (smile) my dirt and rust were overdone, or the clear finish wasn't so clear after all, the switcher is now way too dark and dirty.

    Last night I made my second mistake. I tried to remove the clear coat with a wash of denatured alcohol. The finish is now white. From my woodworking experience I realize that the denatured alcohol has introduced air beneath the clear coat. What I can't figure is my next step.

    On its website Krylon says to use acetone to remove dried clear coat. Of course, I would lose the clear finish, the weathering, the decals and the factory paint--maybe the detailing on the plastic body as well. I don't care about the weathering, since I have to redo it anyway. I would like to avoid re-painting the entire body if possible.

    My weathering is a mix of chalks, acrylic pigment with airbrush medium, and acrylic pigment with isopropyl alcohol medium. As I said, I don't need to preserve it. Any tips on removing the (white) clearcoat without destorying the factory paint and decals?

    Thanks much,
  2. woodone

    woodone Member

    You might try brake fluid- I would do a test spot on the locomotive before I covered the whole unit. It might lift the paint that is under your weathering and clearcoat.
  3. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Denatured alcohol (methyl hydrate) used to be a great way to remove factory paint, but it won't touch a lot of the paints being used nowadays. I just now tried some acetone on a piece of unpainted sheet styrene, and also on the unpainted roof of a scrap boxcar, and it seemed to have no affect on the plastic (no softness or crazing). Polly S makes a paint remover called ELO (Easy-Lift-Off) which seems to work on most paints and is safe for most plastics. Brake fluid will also work on some paints, but it is not safe on all plastics: I used it to remove the paint from an Atlas diesel, but it also "removed" the usefulness of the plastic shell. :rolleyes: Whatever you decide to use, test it first on a small area inside the shell. If all else fails, depending on the model, you may be able to purchase a new shell, since it's tough to control the action of most of the products used to remove finishes.

  4. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    You can correct the whitening/hazing with another application of the matte spray (at least, that is the way it works with Testor's DullCote). Then you'll just have to live with a dirty engine...

    As for actually removing it, I can't add any other suggestion to the above.

    Good luck! If you find an agreeable solution, be sure to let us know!

  5. DixonRobertson

    DixonRobertson New Member

    Here is the helpful advice from the folks at Krylon:


    Thank you for your inquiry with Krylon. Once the product is applied and
    dry, there is not a product or chemical that can be used that will remove
    only one layer of the product at a time. You may be able to sand through
    the coating little by little, but that is the only method I can offer at
    this time. If you have any additional questions, please ask.

    Thank you,

    Now, should I use my belt sander or my bench grinder?

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