PZL P.11c 1:33 A. Haliński Publishing

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Rutek 63, Dec 14, 2009.

  1. Rutek 63

    Rutek 63 Member

    As always, it's a pleasure to hear from you.
    Since my last post, I have added the instrument panel, compass and I have also fixed a few thins.
    Lets start with the instrument panel. I used two flat panels to build one in 3D. In addition, I used stretch sprue to make dial rings and I use Micro-Glaze to make glass imitation. Here are the few links that helped me do this:

    YouTube - HOW TO: Stretch Sprue!
    Antrvm Ratvs - Making plastic rings
    MICRO-GLAZE, 1.5 OZ.



    Now about the compass. Instructions suggest to roll up tight cylinder out of a rectangle piece of paper and then file one end of it to the shape of the hemisphere. You can make this easier by cutting that piece of paper the way I show on the picture below and then roll up. You'll end up with the shape of the hemisphere almost without filing.


    Finally, I have fixed a couple of things. I have whisked off the holster a couple of mm back to the spot to be meant for it.
    I have build new throttle and supercharger control levers -- this time with smaller knobs. I*have also added a missing part of the right machine gun ammunition system.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
  2. TUPAC

    TUPAC New Member

    Hi!!, I'm new on this forum, and i must say that i was a plastic model kit fan, but this paper models are great, the have even more detail than the plastic ones, congratulations Rutek 63 for a beatifull assambly in your model.
  3. Elliott

    Elliott Senior Member

    The detail you are putting into this build is incredible. Really looking forward to the completed model. Thanks for the links!
  4. pahorace

    pahorace Member

    Extraordinary job.
    The attention to detail is really extreme.
    It's always a pleasure to watch a Master Modeler maker at work (very instructive).
    Thanks for the tips.

  5. Rutek 63

    Rutek 63 Member

    Hi All!
    Thank you for your comments. They're very encouraging as always !

    Another month has flown by and my P.11c construction is still going extremely slowly. I was planning to finish it for the 2010 Paper Model Convention, but with this speed it may not be possible.

    According to the model instruction the next two parts that I should be making are the machine gun barrels and the cockpit skin assemble. Yet, I have decided to make a little leap into the front of the fuselage and pick up on the center part of the engine assemble and the cup that covers it. What you see in the pictures below is only the dry fitting assembly.


    The center part of the engine was very simple thing to do:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    As you can se in the first picture below, the cup that covers the center engine part is designed as a set of fore conical rings. However that part of the original airplane is put together with a number of the panels not rings, fastened to the frame around the engine. To get the proper external appearance of that cup I have decided to seal the gaps between the rings with the mid-density SG and paint the joints with matched olive color.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I have also opened (printed with the trick of the eye technic) cooling vents.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

  6. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Active Member

    Slow with this level of quality is better anyhow! Dont rush it! :)
  7. wacek80

    wacek80 New Member

    Rutek 63 If you want a full walkaround of P-11 email me. I live in city where original plane is :) Your model is wonderful :)
  8. Rutek 63

    Rutek 63 Member

    Thank you guys!
    I'm sorry for being absent for a such long time.

    I'm using the book published by "Kagero Studio" for the references. There are 194 walk-around photographs of P.11c. So, I think I'm good. But I appreciate your offer.Thank you!

    Building the engine cup that you can see in the previous post, I made a mistake sealing and painting over the seams that represent the panel connection lines between the front and the rear of the cup. Fixing it by cutting it open in the spot sealed with CA glue didn't work. I had to build it all over again.

    Here is the step by step:

    -Cutting the parts precisely on the line.
    -Sanding off the unwanted outlines of the parts.
    -Accurate as possible gluing the rings of the cup together.


    -Applying the ND into the seams to seal them the same way as the rest of the card is
    -Applying the layer of the gloss acrylic finish to the whole surface of the part.
    -Applying the layer of the matte acrylic finish to the whole surface of the part.
    -Painting the seams with a thin layer of the match color to expose imperfections of glued seams.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    -Filling up the gaps with mid density CA glue.
    -Alignment of the surface with second layer of the CA glue, only applied widely this time.
    -Scrapping the excess of the CA glue with the hobby knife.
    -Applying another layer of the matte acrylic finish.
    -Applying the second layer of the paint over the seams only wider to equalize the painted lines with the print.
    -Diversifying the painted spots with other colors to match the model art design.
    -Redrawing the lines of the panels over the paint.
    -Applying the final layer of the matte finish.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

  9. Rutek 63

    Rutek 63 Member

    Hi guys,
    Finally I was able to close the cockpit and apply first two pieces of the of the fuselage skin. Unfortunately, not without an accident. A little bit of the fresh black paint from my mixing palette got on my palm and by the accident I transfered it onto the fuselage skin in the front of the cockpit. I didn't have any other choice but to tear that part of the fuselage off the formers and apply the new one.


    I decided to switch from the standard kit formers to the laser cut ones. It saves me time that I can spend to build some scratch-build details. For example machine gun's shrouds. I hope that the pictures below explains the shroud's building process. I used very thin paper, 0.7 mm drill bit to give it the right shape, and O' glue for glueing and to keep the shape. I painted the flat part black before wrapping it around the drill. And in the end I used silver color pencil to break down that intensive black color.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    It took me some time to align the machine guns, barrel's compartments and blast tubs in one line. To do it right I had to removed the machine guns off the cockpit, shave their bases and then put new guns in place.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    As you can see in the picture below I decided to leave gun maintenance access hatch open and also on the port side I left openings for scratch build pilots step and the flare launch port.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

  10. Rutek 63

    Rutek 63 Member

    Twenty one parts later and I have basic form of the fuselage. I'm not entirely happy with it though. If I ever build an airplane model again, I'll use the under the skin layer support which is basically the same as the joining strips, but as wide as the skin panels themselves.
    Admittedly, I don't have any former's edges visible like a starving cow's ribs, but I got couple of minor dents which could have been eliminated by applying this under body support thing. Well, first airplane model, go figure.

    The next step will be to equip the fuselage with its details. Including some panel frames which are in the overlay to these basic fuselage skin panels.



    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

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