Proto 0-8-0 Price!

Squidbait

Recovering ALCO-holic
I agree with NKP174,

For a small layout, you can't beat those early pre-war locos and freight cars. Short, but with lots of character.

Roundhouse has their 2-6-0 and 2-8-0 as well, which are both beatiful runners. Not as detailled as the Spectrum locos, but better runners, IMHO.
 

wilbro47

New Member
A couple of years our last hobby shop, now closed, they had a Life like Heritage 0-6-0 Chesapeake and Ohio from probably the first run that didn't have sound. Now I realize this might have been the perfect engine. Very nice engine, I gave it quite a few look overs even though I was still in n scale. I tried searching for one and I'm sure sound could be no more than plug and play. Thanks fellows for your support.
 

brakie

Active Member
I need a steamer for my small Chesapeake & Ohio layout and the only one that really fits that bill prototypically is the Lifelike 0-8-0 but the price almost put me into shock. It's as much as a really nice O gauge engine that has all the bells and whistles like the Railking B6 0-6-0. Either the Chinese wages went from $.30 an hour to $30 an hour or shipping must cost a bundle now. I also hear the Spectrum 2-8-0 does not represent a Chesapeake & Ohio at all. Anyone have an alternative idea?


Check around at the better on line shops.

As far as the 2-8-0 its a fair stand-in for the G9.
 

wilbro47

New Member
Thanks Larry. The online shops are exactly where I have been checking and I have considered a GP7 or 9. It looks like only the Proto 2000 are available with original delivered paint schemes. I have had a couple of Proto diesels in the past and they seemed to be very hard to work on. I do like the paint scheme and QSI if I can get it, and if the price is right, I would truly consider. Thanks again for your helpful thoughts, Bill
 

nkp174

Active Member
Thanks Larry. The online shops are exactly where I have been checking and I have considered a GP7 or 9. It looks like only the Proto 2000 are available with original delivered paint schemes. I have had a couple of Proto diesels in the past and they seemed to be very hard to work on. I do like the paint scheme and QSI if I can get it, and if the price is right, I would truly consider. Thanks again for your helpful thoughts, Bill

I think he was saying the C&O 2-8-0 class G9, not GP9. It took me a second too!
My favorite C&O designation confusion:
T-1 is a beautiful 2-10-4, not the 4-4-4-4s that came along over a decade later.
K-4 is a 2-8-4, not the 4-6-2s of the PRR
C-16 is an 0-8-0, not a D&RGW 2-8-0.
J-3a is a 4-8-4, not a streamlined 4-6-4.
 

wilbro47

New Member
Thanks. Got so many things going on in my mind and not enough capacity, so that train went right by me. Do you know where I can pull up some good photos of a G9 class Loco? Thanks Again
 
L

lester perry

The 0-8-0 and the 2-8-0 are both beautiful and wonderful runners. The 0-8-0 has better detail, the 2-8-0 is a better puller.

The 0-8-0 is a heavy switch engine. It is appropriate for a large yards.
The 2-8-0 is a branchline/local engine. It is ideal for most layouts.

Btw, in your first post you compared them to the Railking 0-6-0. There is no comparison. These are far better detailed...and hence required more chinese worker hours to build.

Perhaps you should consider the Spectrum 4-8-2? It is an nice C&O engine. Or maybe the Spectrum 2-6-6-2? The 2-6-6-2s were the standard coal branch power of the C&O. If I was to build a small C&O line, it would probably be a coal branch and be powered by a 2-6-6-2.

I must agree here. the C&O was a coal hauling r.r. it was thier bread & butter. I have around 300 cars on my layout of which 150 plus are coal and that is not an appropriate balance. I need many more coal cars. I have spectrum 2-6-6-2 and love it it runs almost as much as 2-6-6-6. It is a sweet running loco. looks real good too.
7440ed29.jpg

I also have early release 0-8-0 I added pickups to tender and it is my main yard loco
Les
 

wilbro47

New Member
WOW! Beautiful engine and excellent modeling. Hats off! As far as myself and the layout I have planned, the bigger engines will not serve me well. They'll probably be out of place. By the way, Is that the Proto Yard Goat in the picture?
 
L

lester perry

The 0-8-0 is not in that pic but it isin this one
100_0178.jpg
and in this one
102960147.jpg

that is all the pics I have of that one
Les
 

wilbro47

New Member
Thanks Lester. The 0-8-0 is nice too, but I have to admit, the engine in the other picture is a real gem. Thanks again.
 

nkp174

Active Member
However,as most C&O men will tell you for the coal marshalling yards it was hard to beat the 0-10-0 for brute force..

Although not for turn radii! :mrgreen: Or so I recall. Personally I'd rather have an 0-10-0 on my layout than an 0-6-0 or an 0-8-0.
 
L

lester perry

Although not for turn radii! :mrgreen: Or so I recall. Personally I'd rather have an 0-10-0 on my layout than an 0-6-0 or an 0-8-0.

0-10-0 had more power and was used in yards which were almost all coal if not all coal like Peach Creek in Logan county WV. But 0-8-0 was used there also I am pretty sure you more likely to see an 0-8-0 than a 0-10-0 we are talking model here and I don't know if a 0-10-0 would hndle the tight radius turns an switches and I don't recall seeing 0=10=0 other than brass which I know is beyond my $$$ maybe others have that kind of expendable cash.
Les
 

nkp174

Active Member
IIRC, the 0-10-0s were regarded as being ill-suited for actually working the yards...due to their long wheelbases. And hence only 15 were built (and a couple lasted to near the end) Turn radii can be a problem for real trains just like models. I've stood at the wye near Hinton and seen the 261 almost unable to get around. I've heard of a similar story elsewhere, when the 765 went right around the wye with no problem, and the 611 almost needed the 765 to pull her around due to the radii. There was also a crossing on the Clover Leaf in Delphos OH, that had a sharp enough curve that 2-8-0s were the biggest power that could handle it.

I suspect that the model 0-10-0s are better suited for #4 switches than the real ones were. I'd also love an 0-10-2. I've seen some nice German 0-10-0s, but they're nearly as $$$ as the brass. I view my dollars as being best spent on tools to build my own locomotives that have never been offered, even in brass, such as NKP R class 4-6-0s and K class 4-6-2s.

EDIT: The beginning of this post sounds a touch gruff on re-reading...it isn't intended that way.
 
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