progress on my layout

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by viperman, Aug 27, 2006.


    COMBAT Member

    My vote is BN. Sure you dont like that new engine thats avalable for the group buy?
    LOL :)
    They are 100.00 each plus shipping of your choice.
    Atlas Master™ Series Silver MSRP:$149.95
    I had 1 maybe two people interested and we need a total of four.
    It is an Atlas HO DASH 8-40CW - New Paint Scheme. Dcc ready.

    There were a total of four avialable when I last checked. We need to get four people to make them that price. [​IMG]
  2. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Amrap, the liquid nails I was using is like a caulk, and was the foamboard/projects type. You mean to tell me that white glue would work just as good as this stuff, when it comes to gluing the cork roadbed to the foam base? I know foam to foam the stuff works, but not too sure about the coark to foam.

    I would love it Combat, but just don't have the money for it right now. And yes, BN is my favorite roadname
  3. Canopus

    Canopus Member

    White glue will glue everything to everything, so long as it's not shiny/smooth plastic or metal. If it's poreous then it will glue.
  4. Amrap1

    Amrap1 Member

    I only suggested white glue because I asked several people at shows who had their layouts there. White glue (Elmer's glue all) has been improved so much that it's replaced others used in the past. Their words not mine "You can still pull up cork glued with Elmer's with less damage that most other adhesives".

  5. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I just went and laid some more cork using the white glue. Since this is only in the yard area, I'm not going to worry about it as much as I would with the mainline stuff.

    Amrap, I just read your post. I'm not worried about the damage to the cork or foam when peeling it back up, since at this moment I have no plans to.
  6. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    Nice locos, VM! :cool:
    I wish I could find more BN/BNSF stuff for O27 that didn't cost an arm and a leg.
    Combat's latest buy in almost makes me want to sell all my O gauge and switch to HO just for that engine!
  7. Amrap1

    Amrap1 Member

    I was only trying to save you some money and get the same results. I don't plan on removing any cork either, but if it happens I want to do the least amount of damage.

  8. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I'm just hoping the cork doesn't absorb the glue
  9. Amrap1

    Amrap1 Member

    Obviously it does absorb some glue, but no more than the liquid nails. I just think it's the same result for less money. If anyone else wants to chime in.......

  10. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Ok, well, I checked on it again this morning and the cork did absorb some of the glue, more so than the liquid nails, but all is well. Thanks for the tip Amrap!
  11. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

    Amrap1 has definitely steered you in the right direction $-wise:thumb:. White glue is all I used and it worked like a charm:) Liquid nails might dry faster (just a guess) but white glue is all you need. I just did as much as I could in an evening (and had pins to hold) and let dry over-night....worked great!!!
    Keep up the progress:thumb:
  12. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Here are a few more picture updates:
    First shot is an overall shot showing where everything stands now. You can tell I still need to buy some more track

    Second shot shows the start of scenery work on the outside of the mainline right where the incline starts. I plan to have the scenery outside of the track in this area be about level with the track, with one hill standing taller

    And the last show for now shows the start of scenery work on the inside of the mainline. I have some foam down, and just started to put some sheetrock on it. Plan is to have a slope from the higher track down to about where the lower track is
  13. ocalicreek

    ocalicreek Member

    I worked with the white (expanded) foam for mountainous scenery and other terrain on previous layouts and I found lo-temp hot glue to be effective AND it allows you to make progress quickly without waiting overnight for it to dry. I was using hunks and bits found while dumpster diving so none of this layer cake carving, just sticking it on and then shaping as necessary with a finely serrated or smooth kitchen knife...small, quick sawing motion reduces the mess considerably. The smooth edged knife worked best. I'd apply large chunks and long sections first to build up a frame or foundation for large mountains/hills then fill it in with smaller pieces and eventually carve it and shape it. Then whatever hardshell or plaster cloth or sculptamold etc. could be added on top and scenicked accordingly. Just a thought...
  14. TruckLover

    TruckLover Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer

    Lookin Good Steven, Nice progress :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
  15. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I've always just used white glue for the foam scenery. I don't mind the wait for it to dry, I usually don't have a whole lot of time to work on it at a time (if that makes any sense). I too am taking a similar route to build it up then carve down, but not in this area, since there is not much room to work with
  16. MadHatter

    MadHatter Charging at full tilt.

    :wave: Looking Good!!!! :thumb:
  17. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Josh, MadHatter, thanks for the compliments!
  18. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Ok everyone, finally time for a new update!!! I've been working on shaping the hill on the outside of the mainline, painting the ties and started painting the rails.

    First picture is of the hill I've been working on shaping. This part of the hill is where it ends for the valley the river will be flowing through. You can see where the bridge starts, and the abutment.

    And the next picture is showing the same landscaping, but between the log dump tracks and the mainline. Mainline is on the outside.

    And now to show the treatments I've been giving the Atlas code 100 track. The painted ties are boxcar red. The boxcar red leaves a very dark brown, with some black showing through. I'm happy with the results. First pic is a siding where I hope to put a woodchip loader, second is a couple legs in the yard.


    And now for another view of the tracks in the yard. You can see the painted ties, and that I've also started to paint the rails rust. The rust is to the left, untouched to the right.
  19. ocalicreek

    ocalicreek Member

    Awesome progress Steven! Glad to see you're still in the game. Are you going to go back and touch up individual ties? Time spent on dressing up the track is almost always time well spent, even if it is drudgery at times. Yours is looking great, although the boxcar red is a bit light for my taste - it's your railroad, afterall. A wash of a darker brown would balance it out and perhaps add some depth to the wood grain.

    And I must give you the same hard time I have given nazgul - put some SHOES on that bridge! The abutment should extend out as far as the girders and then the girders should rest on the shoes, which should be resting on the abutment. SO don't delay - fix this now before you get any further. Avoid more badgering (even though good-natured) from the bridge-shoe police.

    Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work!
  20. wickman

    wickman Member

    Nice to see some progress pics. I used the boxcar red on my rails as well I liked the color it gives then I went over the ties with some grimey looking black to discolor the boxcar red on the ties. Any chance of a tunnel on the upper track on the curve , You'd have good access from the end I thinks.:wave:

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