progress on my layout

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by viperman, Aug 27, 2006.

  1. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    GEC, do you have a materials list of what is involved in the layout you posted in post 151, top of page 11?
  2. viperman

    viperman Active Member

  3. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    Its easy once you learn what everything does.
  4. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I would hold off on anything model power. its not worth your time and aggravation. they generally don't run that great.

    if you can find one, buy an athearn model of somekind, or better.
  5. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    sure thing.

    42 9" straights
    18 22" radius
    5 #4 switches, left
    3 #4 switches, right
    3 #6 switches, left
    1 #6 switch, right
    1 6" straight
    1 3" straight
    4 1/3 18" radius curve
    2 3/4" straight

    the inner run around track is all flex track except for one 9" straight, and a left hand #4 switch, so that things flowed better. I also used a bit of flex track in the yard, on that curve on the last track towards the aisle ( where the switch ladder stops).

    operation of this line is run by two locomotives double heading back to back, just like its done in real life.
  6. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

    I've had one of those Model Power switchers... The exact same one, in fact, except it's in Santa Fe colors. I bought it back in 1988 for $10 actually. :D

    The thing actually runs OK but not anywhere near as nice as an Atlas. It's got a frame-mounted motor that drives the rear wheels through a worm gear. The front axle just freewheels. It's got a pretty big hunk of lead in the engine so it pulls decently for such a small engine (it can pull around 10 free-rolling cars on straight level track).

    However, it's not a good slow-speed runner, for two reasons... Just four wheels for electrical pickup and no flywheel to maintain momentum, so it will be more sensitive to dirty track. 8-wheel switchers with flywheel drive will be more reliable because of more wheels for electrical pickup and the flywheels will allow the engine to coast past dirty spots on the track. Also, the gearing for that engine is rather high. Model Power geared that thing to run at a scale 100mph or something.

    It's also kind of noisy... The growl is about 5 times louder than an Athearn Blue Box loco.

    My final complaint about that engine is that it's totally out-of-scale. The thing actually looks more like an O-scale narrow-gauge switcher. :D

    But other than those things, if you need a small, cheap engine that can handle real sharp curves (this thing can go around 10" radius curves if you want it to), yea grab it.

    If you want a better-quality BN switcher, I would grab one of those Atlas switchers like an MP15DC. 8-wheel flywheel drive, very smooth, great low-speed control for switching maneuvers. BN had a few of these yard switchers on its roster, though I don't know if Atlas has their MP15DC in that paint scheme. You can always grab an undec and paint it up yourself-- The BN paint scheme is ridiculously easy to do.
  7. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    GEC, I forgot to ask, is that layout 6 axle friendly, or should I stick with 4 axle units like my GP? I love the SD40 series engines, and would love to run one.
  8. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    yep, they will fit on the leads on each run around track. as a precaution, i might add 3 inches to the run around lead at the end of the line (AKA Mount Holly yard, on which it was based).

    that should fit most 6 axle switchers, although in real life railroads would prefer old 4 axle road switchers (GP15-1s, GP38/40-2s, B23/30-7s, and similar) for this work.
  9. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    The way I look at this plan, is that I have a mainline running around the outer edge, between two yards. The yards would obviously have 4axle switchers, but run the SD's on the mainline to bring the trains from one yard to the other, as the smaller engines do the yard work
  10. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    yeah, mount holly yard isn't so much a yarlike what you are thinking. Its more or less a run around track, and a team track. the second spur towards the middle at the yard is a "M.o.W." track. Mount holly yard's purpose is to get the head end on the other side of the train. this track plan isn't set for having through freights and such like that.

    in order to make operations work for that, you'd need a third track to Mount Holly yard, one for arrivals, one for a departure, and a run around so the SD40s can get back to the yard they came from with the departing cut of cars. the local switcher i suppose could wait on the MoW track, which would now be the engine house or something, wich could be run by a GP38 or something.

    It would still probably be better to have a smaller switcher (like an SW1500) work on the large yard on the right of the aisle, and then let the SD40s take the freight down to Mount Holly, get to the other side of the train and switch the cars, then head back to the large yard.

    its your railroad though
  11. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I do want to get either an SW1500 or MP15DC. I have other stuff to get before I do that though. I still need roadbed, foam sheets, more track pieces, etc. I may even be changing the size and shape of the layout, depending on whether or not I can clear up some room in the basement
  12. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Just to let everyone know, I no longer live in Winfield with my fiance, hr parents kicked me out yesterday. So I now live in Crystal Lake again with my parents, and will have more time to work on the layout
  13. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Went to a LHS (though not too L for me) after work today. Picked up 12 pieces of 22r, 3 pieces of cork roadbed, and an Athearn BB kit of a CN 40' boxcar. I finished replacing the horn-hook couplers with kadee 5s on a boxcar I got somewhere, and had to completely build out of the parts box pretty much. Looks good!

    Anyway, I will hopefully soon be getting a couple sheets of 2" thick foam to put down over the plywood, so I can start laying track. I also found Atlas HO 8 to be of very similar design to what I was trying to draw up. Anyone have a piece by piece listing for that layout? I may go with that instead of 34
  14. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

  15. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Steve, that is it. Seeing that list makes me think, maybe I'll just wing it, and see how it turns out
  16. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Anyone want to try to draw up a plan similar to:
    to fit:
  17. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

    no interest in flex track? The learning curve isn't too bad...I DID IT!:D
  18. gottaBreal

    gottaBreal Member

    lol ya mang just make your own plan. This isnt that hard but when playing with such a small area your stuck with round the tree layout. Lets check out what you can do with 10x10 rather than 8x8
  19. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I am in the process of clearing up some junk in the basement right now. So hopefully that can clear up some room. I am also eye-ing a certain wall/section of the basement, by dad's workbench.
    Steve - I'd be willing to work with it, I'd have to get some, but that's easy enough
  20. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

    Isn't that the Atlas Super Pretzel?
    My overall layout is almost the same size as yours if you cut off the 4'x2' leg. I started with the SP and modified it to fit and to separate it in two separate, but connected mainlines. You can look on my RailImages page to see the track plan. One word of caution though, the reach across the upper left corner is gonna be a tough one.

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