Pouring "water"

[Mrs.Mac]

When I pour my Envirotex Lite "water" how do I get it to stay on the layout and not drip over the enge and onto my carpeting?

Do I use masking tape? Do I put up wooden "dams" and caulk the bottom to ensure there is no drippage?

Thanks!!

Mrs. Mac

 

[Arlaghan]

I wonder if a clear piece of styrene will work as a dam? Just thinking outloud. I'm curious as to this as well, since part of my 2x4 layout has a river running off the edge.

 

[MasonJar]

Don't know yet, since I haven't tried, but I think a lot of people recommend a masking tape dam at the "open" end. I imagine that you should coat it with something so you can get it off later and have a clear cross-section of the river.

This just occured to me as I am typing - could hot glue work for water, as it is mostly clear when dry...??

Just my $0.02 on this topic, and it probably isn't even worth that...

Andrew

 

[Lemur]

I like the clear styrene idea. You would most likely need to reinforce it with a temporary block at the edge of the layout for the duration of the pour/cure cycle to prevent the styrene from bowing out.

I have been putting off pouring my creek for this very same reason. I have plenty of other work that needs to be done in the meantime.

 

[Vic]

Some Body Beat You To It

Originally posted by MasonJar

This just occured to me as I am typing - could hot glue work for water, as it is mostly clear when dry...??

That stuff that Woodland Senics sold for making water...the stuff that you melted and poured....was nothing more than the pellets that hot glue sticks are made from.

Mrs. Mac....Plain old children's modeling clay(not Playdough) ought to work. But what ever you use I'd lay several layers of newspaper on the floor just in case My thought is that the Envirotex will stick to any kind of dam made from wood, plastic, etc. and might just crack your pour when you tried to break it loose.

 

[Ralph]

Mrs. Mac,

I looked through my copy of Dave Frary's "How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenary" and see that he recommends a masking tape dam for the edge of the layout when using Envirotex. I recall seeing it mentioned in several articles that Envirotex will find any pin hole to leak through so be sure your river is well sealed and DO take Vic's advice regarding covering your floor...not only at the edge but under the layout along the entire pour. Seems to me you just put up benchwork. Now you're making rivers!!!!?! Cool! :thumb:
Tell us how it goes!
Ralph

 

[Gary Pfeil]

When I use Envirotex I use the Masonite which will be the fascia as the dam. I use a sabre saw to contour the masonite to match the banks, and keep the level edge across the water surface about 1/4" above the prepared river or stream bottom. I use spackle to seal it tight, painting the spackle and riverbed at the same time. I then pour to within a 64th or so of the top of the masonite.

Gary

 

[shamus]

Hi Mrs Mac,
I use a carpet tape to place at the end of my board so it don't drip. This tape comes in a variety of colours from white to yellow and is very very sticky. It will not drip through it if placed on and pressed down fully.
Cheers
Shamus

 

[asab501]

Mrs.Mac:

Just saw this topic. If you use masking tape alone, make sure it is reinforced well and as a precaution for the inevitable, make sure you have something covering the floor. Don't ask, fortuanately my previous layout was in the garage and no big deal.

I like the idea of using something that will eventually be your fascia as a dam to prevent leakage, but again I would double check to make sure everything is reinforced and always prepare for the worst.

 

[60103]

Make sure that the river bed is fully sealed with no gaps. One of our club members poured a canal and the were holes in the plaster he had over the foam and the river ate into the foam.

 

[Clerk]

On my old layout I used balsum? wood and sealed around the edges with white glue. After the water had cured, I wet the glue and tore the wood off, then sanded it smooth. I thought it worked pretty good.

 

[TrainClown]

I read in the Envirotex web site that the bottom of the river should be sealed first with white glue to fill in any pin holes and seal off anything that may be desolved by the Envirotex. They said to paint the glue on with a brush just up pase the edge of the river and that this would give a wet look to the banks. Also it seals down any sand or wood debrie so it dosen't float around in the new river when poured.

Haven't tried this myself, but I will one of these days.

I use Weldbond white glue, and swear by it. It is by far the best white glue I have used. I get it in the gallon jug and use it for all sorts of things. It even works as a clear coat on some projects. I use an old Frenche's sweet onion mustard plastic bottle as my glue dispencer. It has a trick tip that closes after every squeeze.

TrainClown

 

[wendell]

I would also add that you make sure if you are pouring a river that the river is level other wise all the epoxie will go to the lowiest end (don't ask how I know) and as others have pointed out seal the river or lake bed. on facia I use duct tape and then hot glue to seal the edge. Also make sure you mix the epoxie Stir in at leaset 2 min.
wendell

 

[asab501]

I would also add that you make sure if you are pouring a river that the river is level other wise all the epoxie will go to the lowiest end (don't ask how I know)

Wendell, I agree...been there, done that!

 

[Mrs.Mac]

Thanks for the tips! I'll let you know how it goes as I didn't get around to pouring the river or lake this weekend. The Christmas layout for under the tree and servicing new engines took up all of my time.

Mrs. Mac

 

[Bikerdad]

speculation here...

If you're going to "close" edge with clear plastic, I'd do a test first to make sure that the Envirotex doesn't attack it. While I'd be mighty surprised if it were to eat through 1/8" or 1/4" of Lexan, any attack could craze it pretty ugly.

An option you might be able to use for a removable dam would be wood faced with wax paper, or highly waxed wood. Just like with the clear plastic, success depends on the solvent characteristics of Envirotex, a subject about which I know nada, zip, zilch. Toss in latex or silicone caulk to seal the edges and you're off to the races!

It is, of course, suggested that you experiment with either of these before attempting them on your layout.

 

[fifer]

I just read this thread but agree with others , SEAL THE BOTTOM ,
Use Masking Tape.
Now for additional tips:
Color the envirotex with food color, try a few drops and stir it in . It will look as though it will not mix but keep mixing and check the color , if you need or want to add more or another color ie: blue and add green for murky water , do so.
Now pour the lake or river and after puoring have some cotton balls handy . When you get the resin to the desired depth save the remainder and set asside. Now shread the cotton ball into small long pieces and insert them into the wet resin and poke them into it with a popsicle stick untill soaked and adjust it to form rapids in the water and repeat as nesissary.
Once dry , drybrush the tops of the rapids with white acrylics.
For pictures of the finished project see PROGRESS ON THE ACT RR in the N and Z section.
Mike

 

[Medicine Man]

I was going to try 6 or 7 layer's of wax paper(it would act as a gasket) held in place by a piece of 3/4" plywood,that would be secured to the edge of the layout by a few(4 ?) large C clamp's. Once it has cured,remove the plywood,then peel off the layer's of wax paper. I have been modeling variouse hobbies since 83 and have yet to find anything that will stick to good quality wax paper. This should give a flat edge that is crystal clear(so I can look up stream under water).:thumb:

MM

 

[Clerk]

That sounds good mm:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

 

[sumpter250]

Just in case you'd like to try Woodland Scenics "water". see G/O/S scale...On30 Conspiracy..page 5. I used the product on my On30 diorama, and there was some discussion/comment on the process in this thread.
Pete