Possible alternative to direct printing and assembly - Anybody tried it?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Arjun, Apr 22, 2008.

  1. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    Some of the models I've made, particularly the MiG-29, were in hard cardstock. When I put sections together, I could clearly see the borders. Not a very pretty sight! Of course, that was a totally hand-made model. And of course, when you run hard card into a printer, the printer often tends to act up, or the prints are not that stable. Not a good sign if you're modelling a Ferrrari, with the curves. It doesn't help matters much when we lose fold lines or they get in the way of the textures.

    Now I am thinking- why not make one print of the layout only with fold lines on cardstock, assemble the model, then print the textures on regular paper and wrap the textures on the model? That way, seams between sections are a lot less clear. We can use tabs here because the paper thickness is so minimal, the seams will blend better.

    There are, however, some issues. If there are projections or extrusions (airplane wings and fins, or engines from wings, or car fins), how do you get around them? And how large should the tabs be to use minimal glue and avoid the texture paper getting puffy?
  2. Shin_kazama

    Shin_kazama Member

    i have made numerous airplane models using 220 gsm cards.

    i actually have two variations of using tabs, one is i completely remove the tabs and replacing them with tabs that go underneath the section wher the tab was needed, usually, i just laminate the same area underneath if strength is needed.

    second variation of that is what i nickname half tabbing.
    this i only use when the tab is used in corners, like wing leading edges etc.

    here, i cut halfway through the thickness(multiple light scores will do) and peel off the side where glue is needed, giving a rough surface(to mee is good) to glue on, resulting in a near seamless joint.

    one more trick is using a small flat iron to join 2 flat surfaced parts, then laminating the insides to strengthen it. this i do on rocket engines, like AXM's Space Shuttle. be advised not to make the iron too hot when used on laser prints since the iron would melt the ink off.

    i use the flat iron trick in tandem with the other techniques i do...

    also, if your fingers can take the heat(or use tweezers) you can substitute flat iron with hairdryer.....

    hope your mom/sister/wife/daughters/nieces wont mind you using it.......

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