Discussion in 'Logging, Mining and Industrial Railroads' started by NIevo, Mar 1, 2008.
It looks like Zealot lost the pictures of my test fitwall1wall1wall1wall1
I am seeing pictures of a syringe for normal saline being turned in to a rather nice looking boiler. Are those the pics that you thought might be lost???
Zealot does a pretty good job of hosting pictures. To me the easiest to use.
No those are there, but the pictures of the Surry parker in Terrapin drop out.
this boiler is starting to shape up nicely
The photos of the Surry Parker in Terrapin are back, must have been an electronic hickup. Have been cutting ,splitting, and stacking wood as well as burning on a stump. Now I'm back in trying to enjoy a fire in the woodstove, while I try to prepare an epic meal, for tonight, when my fife comes off two consecutive 12 hr shifts. Then I need to clear the deck on my workbench so I can set it up with lots of projects for me to work on while my wife watches the superbowl.
I may do some work on the Surry Parkers, as well as some bridge decks I need to build for the Club, one each for the mainline and passing siding near where the sawmill will go, and one for the big long climb toward the upper deck, where Dave is ruthlessly improving the scenery.
I also have a passel of old AHM truss rod flatcars, which are in line to get a bunch of improvements for lof service, possibly to go to the Club, although that would really hurt as I need way many more log cars @ home too, but at least I have some!
working on trains
I'm working on train stuff while listening yo Hockey (Nashville-Vancouver), and preparing for the super bowl.
I have been patching up a three drum winch for S-P #1, and have started to work on the leg pockets for #2.
I may also try to patch together a bunch of log cars during the football game ( my wife pays better attention than I do)
Looking good Bill. Very impressive photos and great "closeup shots."
progress on unit #2
I got the stake pockets on Unit #@2, so with that done, I'll be ready to erect the head frame soon, just need to add NBW castings to the tie down pulleys on the headframe before glueing it up.
I'm done tonight though had an exciting Hockey game on the radio this afternoon, and built on the loader durring the super bowl which turned into an excellent game.
Never did work on log cars,
Looking good there, Bill!!!!
Thanks Tom. Getting those brass post pockets drilled for the tension rods, filed to final shape. chemically blackened, alinged to the needed position on the frame, tacked on with acc so the tension rod holes can get drilled in the right places, and then getting the horse shoe curve bent in the tension rods bent, and getting them chemically blackened, and installed, so tach corner assembly can cet flooded with ACC, is the most tedious part of this while project so far, so it is very good to have that done on unit # 2. The rest of the work needeed to catch up will be easy and fun compared to all of that.
All of that was needed though, as the pockets neened to be brass for strenth. but a brass wood joint is going to be problematic, but with the tension rods running through holes in the frame that gave lots of tiny placrs for the acc to creep into and bond the rods to the frame, which hopefully will support the pockets and keep the thing togrther.
I Just got issue # 44 of Timbertimes and there is an article on a scratchbuilt HO Surry-Parker single drum unit . That modeler had used styrene to make the pocketsm and did not model the tension rods, and there was one pocket visibly broken in the photo, so doing it the hard way is definately worth a try.
Also in that same issue, there was an article on a shop made flatcar. That got my attention, as when I was looking at the unbuilt or in need of rebuild log cars in my car shops drawer I was conflicted, as we need 25 or more log cars @ the club. I need more @ home, and I could really use some 40 ft truss rod flats to ship open loads of lumber as well.
I now have a very nice drill press, so drilling out presision metal holes for tapping could be quick and easy. If I used the alumimum Like I have used on my as of yet unsusessful attempts to built an R/C 24 oar mechanism for my Roman Bireme , it would be easy to cut to size drill and tap frame blanks. As the Surry-Parker project winds down I will start to investigate 40 foot truss rod flat designs. We could also do 30 foot cars for log service, but 40 foot truss rod flats were ubiquitous. If you want to join this project Tom, I will keep You posted as I do my initial design work, and come up with a list of needed materials. I'd be aiming for mass production (i.e as cheap as we can go and get a good looking reliable flatcar).
In my stash of kits I found six unbuilt MDC shorty flats. I'm tempter to build some or all of them to log servise specs, paint them for the C&S, and use them to get logs through interchange off the Southern. Every log car I can get off of the Valley Division, will help reduce the trafic congestion on the Mountain Division
NBW & boiler details
the NBW castings are on the #2 unit's tie down pullies, and I have put some piping on the #1 unit's boiler, and scratched a whistle.
one of these will live on my RR
Eastern Tn logging on the DG CC & W RR 1928
and the other will lice @ Dr Tom's
I'm getting unit #2 much closer to Unit #1's level of completion.
Love these pictures!!! You are doing a great job Bill.
I too been thinking about 40' logging flats. The Bachmann 40 footer,modeled after those at Cass, I got for Christmas has been running all over the layout with "0" derails. I am considering a few more if funds allow. They ain't cheap!!!
No they are quite nice, fine if you need 3 maybe. I'm figuring I need maybe another 10 log cars for the home layout, and we probably need at least 25 for at the club.
A head count of the C&S logging flats and the sidings, yards and logging camps show I could use 4 more flats. You know lazy me I will probably go the RTR B'mann flats.
I notice the cone to the smokestack on one of your donkeys is a bit roughed up, was that intentional (as though it's been dragged under too many low hanging branches, lol) or would you like something better?
I'd suggest going to the hardware store and looking for brass or nylon barb fittings, the kind you put rubber hose over. They have a profile like this:
and come in various sizes, and you could cut one off and make a lil better cone. :thumb:
That is certainly the case. I'm working with parts at hand here, and was experimenting with scratch building techniques, with brass. This boiler is a conditional sucess, in that it looks a lot better than no boiler, and was made 100% out of stock on hand, without carefull study. Had I not been working quick and dirty, which is very helpfull when one is trying to get finished with something, rather than aiming at perfection, that is never ready for the layout; I'd have cut shapes in notecard, untill it fit perfectly, and then transfered the shape to the brass sheet. That portion of the boiler will be almost invisible under the roof of the finished Surry Parker loader. The syringe boiler may turn out to be the better unit. I'm sure Dr Tom will not complain , whichever boiler ends up on whichever Surry-Parker ends up in his posession, as Tom is my inspiration for working quick and dirty, cause Tom gets it done! and the RR that gets built looks better than the one that doesn't because youre trying to get x or y just right.
Yep, those old steam donkey's could get pretty beat up.
Here is a picture of one that is pretty "wore out."
Beautiful work!! :thumb:
I noticed that the original was from some sort of "Sodium Chloride" medical container? What did you use?
I frequently use medical cast-offs to make things myself, being in the field and having access.
according to the label that boiler began life as a single use 10 ml syringe of normal saline. the smoke stack is a piece of brass tubing, which was held with a pair of mini vise grips, and heated cherry red with a mini blow torch, and then melted into the business end of the syringe tube, which was shortened, by cutting off the bottom of the boiler to get it close to the right height
Other than the shape, the material is not ideal, as most glues don't want anything to do with it.
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