PEKO track

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by ezdays, Feb 25, 2004.

  1. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

    I got this layout and a box full of other goodies at a church thrift store in Phoenix. As you can see, they got just about all the track down, and that's it. The story is that it was a father-son thing, but they were moving and mom was tired of seeing it, I guess they didn't work on it much. Mom won.

    In addtion to the layout, for $250 I got three engines (two like new), nine cars(eight are Atlas), around eight half-finished structure kits (unpained and badly in need of reassembly), lots of track, turnouts, power packs (including a Tech 4/250 and a bunch of other stuff. I think I did well, plus the money went to a good cause.

    Anyway, I have used Atlas track and turnouts on my current layout and hold it in place with rail nails until balasted. All the rails are PEKO and there are no nail holes in the ties.

    A question: What do most people use to hold the rails in place? These guys used hot-melt glue, and were a bit sloppy, geting glue on top of the ties and in some cases, not enoght to hold the rail in place. They did a good job on the base and I want to rework the rails and use the layout. It is 36" x 60".

    Any reccomendations? I'm not too keen on drilling the ties.

    Attached Files:

  2. n2trains

    n2trains Member

    In my experience, I've had great success with liquid nails. It's cheap (at most $2 per) and easy to use, dries moderately fast but can be taken up without that much trouble.
  3. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Nice find! Looks like a good start to a layout... too bad for them, but good for you!

    MR has been advocating the use of adhesive caulk to stick track and roadbed (cork or foam) to the subroadbed.

    I don't know how well it works, 'cuz I haven't tried, but sounds good. It is also supposedly less permanent than liquid nails, as it can be pried apart with a metal spatula if necessary.

  4. CSX6638

    CSX6638 Member

    Hi Don, Nice looking find, looks like the start of a good layout. if you are going to ballest the track a small dab of liquid nails at the center of the ties should hold and not be seen, I have used a drill in a pin vise to drill holes in atlas flex track ties where I need extra nails holding around a radius without a problem. Keep buying more and you will soon need a bigger house. Have fun.
  5. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

    Don, I have drilled holes in Peco track as Andrew describes. That worked for me. I still have a few sections of Peco flex track but now only buy Atlas
  6. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

    Geeze Andrew, you're right, I think I'll find a bigger house... Hey wait, I think that's what I'm doing as we speak. :D :D The only problem now is that I've got two layout half finished:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

    Everytime I drill into rails I wind up breaking them. I guess I should use something other than a Dremel drill. :eek: I don't know what these guys used to glue the roadbed down with, but they did a good job. It is flat with no gaps to the plywood. I think maybe dad made the base and did the roadbed, and Jr. did the rails. Just a bit sloppy but nothing that can't be cleaned up.:thumb: :thumb:

    Yeah, I think it was a good find, but if it wasn't, the cost went to a good cause. I didn't know what I had until I got the box home. I was looking for an old boat at the bottom, one that I could sell on Ebay for around $79,100, but alas, no such luck this time.
  7. Drew1125

    Drew1125 Active Member

    Hey Don! Looks like you got a great deal! :cool: :thumb: I've always just glued the track down with white glue...just brush it on the roadbed full strength with a damp brush...weight the track down for a couple of hours, & you'll get a nice, strong bond, & it' doesn't get all "gloppy" like liquid nails, or hot glue can...
  8. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way


    Thanks, now I know why I started my other layout with Atlas flex track and turnouts. It was a lot easier with rail nails and blue foam board. It's gunna take a while to clean this one up though since the balast isn't going to hide it all. "Gloppy", good word, rhyms with "sloppy".:wave: :wave:
  9. Drew1125

    Drew1125 Active Member

    Hi Don! It looks like most of the trackwork is already installed...? Or are you having to go back & re-do some? If you would rather use Atlas track, it is compatable with the Peco...Like you, I've come to prefer the foam over plywood for my roadbed, & for layout construction in general...I wish I had used more foam, & less plywood for my current layout...I used 1/2" plywood for the baseboard, & the thing is ungodly heavy!:eek: :rolleyes: :mad:
  10. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way


    Yeah, most of the trackwork is installed, and there was plenty extra in the box to finish it, and one more layout like it.:) Just that some of the track is loose and has shifted out of alignment. I have enough Atlas track to replace it but I see no need to. I don't particularly want to pull any of it up, just repair what needs to be. I wasn't sure if anyone drilled the Peco track to just glued it down since all I've ever used was the pre-drilled Atlas track.

    I did get a clue here that my Dremel is probably too fast which is why I'm tearing up ties, even at slow speed. :oops: I think I'll try a couple of the different things suggested here just to see what works best for me.

    thanks to all for your suggestions.:thumb: :thumb:

    Oh yeah, Charlie, this layout isn't very heavy. My wife and I easilly carried it to the truck. Of course, that's going to change after I start adding scenery..
  11. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    I try to put spikes or little nails on the outside of the rails, between the ties. Sometimes I use straight pins and leave them sticking up a bit sp that I can lift the track out for some reason. Then I glue it down with the ballast. The nails can then be removed if they're visible.
    I have a few bits of track with nails through the ties, but I try to avoid it.
    Very fine pins can often be pushed through the ties. One fellow pushed them through just outside the molded on spike and after they were painted, you didn't notice them unless you knew about it.

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