Paper types

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by GelGooG, Jan 12, 2006.

  1. GelGooG

    GelGooG New Member

    Hi, sorry I'm a but new to the paper modeling thing (only built 1 in the past, but enjoyed it and want to look into doing more) and was hoping I could get a little advice.

    I find "normal" (A4, plain-printer if you like) paper rather thin/fragile and was curious if anyone has had any luck using a slightly thicker (maybe even a little cardish) paper after printed models. I'm guessing round models would be difficult but stuff like mecha maybe easier..

    Thanks for reading the post guys.
  2. modelincard

    modelincard Member

    I always use 110 lb paper, myself. (Not that my models are the best, but they're good enough for me.)
  3. barry

    barry Active Member


    80 gsm , 120 gsm and 160 gsm whichever feels the best for the part it can be wasteful on ink.
  4. Texman

    Texman Guest

    And now, the mandatory 1/144 scale plug.. I find that 67# cardstock
    works great if your building in the smaller scales.

  5. Ashrunner

    Ashrunner Member

    I use 67# stock for everything I build, including (mandatory plug coming) 1:100 scale 8v)
  6. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

    There is no reason why you cannot use different weights of paper for different parts.
    I print airplane's skins on 110lb cardstock and all elements to be tigthly rolled on regular 20lb printer paper.
  7. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    I mostly use cardstock and I do curved parts. It seems to curve more smoothly than thinner paper.

    I also use acid-free printer paper (20lb weight) when I make parts that need to be thin and for papermache work.
    Recently I bought an Epson stylus photo printer and supposedly to get the best results you should use Epson's coated papers. I'm finding that I don't like coated paper for models. The coating tends to rip of if I get CA glue in the wrong place.

    With uncoated paper the ink soaks in a bit and when I spray it with acrylic is soaks in a bit more.

    I've gone back to uncoated acid free cardstock for the models. I'll use the expensive coated stuff for photos.

    I'm going to buy some of Epson's fancy watercolor paper. I'll let you know how it goes. Cotton rag paper should be nice and strong and almost like fabric.
  8. doc_harvey

    doc_harvey Member

    I've been experimenting with different paper types...I love the details I get when i print on 10 mil glossy photo paper, doesn't seem to glue well, it doesn't score well (like when you score it to make a fold line), it picks up fingerprints like crazy and the colors "bleed" if you even look at it cross-eyed...I guess the easiest cardstock I've used is in the 65 lbs range...pretty cheap, too.
  9. histbuff1190

    histbuff1190 Member

    i use 24lb. paper. its ok if ur just doin simple models, id like a bit thicker but i have trouble finding cardstock in my area :( experiment, see what u like best. but id recomend something at least over 30lbs.
  10. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    That's the sort of trouble that I've had with it along with the coating getting glued to fingers along with the CA glue. I've bought some UHU glue. I'll see if it works better than CA with glossy photo paper. I kind of like a satin finish instead of a gloss finish though.
  11. TheWebdude

    TheWebdude Just a Member

    To be specific; 67lb/145 g/m² Wausau Exact Bristol for everything I print to assemble.
  12. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    I bought some more paper(waterproof inkjet printing material) to try. For parts that need to be thin I've been having trouble with regular weight paper buckling a bit in an inkjet printer. I want to see what this does. I also want to try making boats that float. National Geographic puts out this stuff for printing waterproof maps.
  13. blueeyedbear

    blueeyedbear Member

    I printed the model I'm currently working on (the Fiddlers Green Grumman Duck) on 20 lb plain paper, Epson Matte Paper Heavyweight (44 lb), HP Premium Presentation paper (32 bl) and card stock (60 lb) and have used all of them. Heaviest for wings and struts and which ever of the others folds or rolls best. I've used all 4 weights.
  14. 46rob

    46rob Member

    I normally use a 67 lb Bristol for curvy things like jets, in fact, I design my jets for that wt paper. However, I do use other papers, like 110 lb for interior bracing, boxy things and such. I use tinted papers for effect sometimes, and use the Red River Silver paper for bare metal finish. I've used photo paper for a glossy look, although I don't like it's grain (or lack of). If I was helping a neophyte get started, I'd probably get the person set up with 40, 67 and 110 lb paper, and assume that standard paper is already on hand.
  15. jasco

    jasco Member

    I, too have experimented with lots of different papers. Currently I'm using 67# Exact Bristol produced by Wausau paper and available from Office Max. I have also used 32# matte finish photo paper from Great White, 24# and 20# bond for smallish parts and smallish models. I don't like cardstock from the craft store because the finish is too coarse. I've never tried 90# or 110# index. I have tried glossy photo paper, though, but since I tend to drool while I'm building, the colors run! 8^b

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