Paper thickness...

Discussion in 'How Do I...' started by cdirto, Oct 28, 2010.

  1. cdirto

    cdirto New Member

    OK, so I think I have got Pepakura down enough to be really dangerous with it....

    I have a question, however. How do you take into account the thickness of paper when designing these models?

    Honestly, although I have built a number of these models in the past month, every single one, so far, has been printed on 20lb bond! I can't see spending money on excellent printing until I have the techniques down.

    I've designed a nice chess set using some unique pieces I found online (and until the copyright holder says OK, you can't have it....), but I want to make sure that I account for the thickness of say 90 to 110lb cardstock when I have it printed for a test build.

    Do I need to add width or length or just pray it all works out?


  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Active Member

    Pretty sure it just all works out.... whatever discrepancies there might be are so miniscule you wont see them.

    SEBRET Member

    Depends on the model design. As a rule of thumb for me, anything bigger than say 20cm is usually free from this problem and can just be built as is. Card stock is still thin enough that most geometry is unaffected by it. when you start doing high detail models or small figures it can be a hassle and a blessing. With details, paper thickness can add to your techniques (i.e. greebling (spelling?)), but can make exact shapes hard to line up because of the bulk it adds to seems and corners. With small figures, thickness can add to the models strength, but is difficult to work with in complex shapes.

    I would suggest you find a model you like, and build two versions of it, one big and one small. this will tell you what happens when details have to be spread over more or less paper. after that you can design models using what u know from it.

    as far as pep being made to adjust for thickness, there is no option. I don't really see it working out to well if they tried.
  4. cdirto

    cdirto New Member

    Thanks guys. I appreciate the responses. I thought I had read somewhere, but I couldn't find it again, that the thickness had to be taken in to account. After reading SEBRET's response, I understand why it "might" come into play.

    With the chess board being made of individual flattened cubes glued together, I hope the fit inside the border I have around them. Ah, well, only one way to find out for sure. Here goes nuthin'.

  5. bl4ckkn16ht

    bl4ckkn16ht New Member

    is a 150 gsm paper enough to build a papermodel?

    a 200 gsm looks to thick though
  6. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    Dry fit first. Remember, a lot has to do more with density, than thickness!
  7. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator

    If I were you, I would try both to see what works better for you.

    Generaly though, if you are building a kit, follow what the designer has suggested. I found out that the hard way.

    If you want a general paper, I have seen most models built with 160gs/m2.

    Again though, it really does not hurt to experiment and find out what works better for you.

    Good luck with it.
  8. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    My previous 16 years as a machinist makes me Brain ache if it isn't in .001" thousands of an inch increments. The whole weight stuff confuses me.

    Some 110 lb. papers are the same as some 65 lb. paper, usually .009" thick.
    I believe that is the same thickness as some paper model manufacturers. I am a big fan of FREE models, so a lot of time, i just end up building everything out of 110 lb. stock. I have some 26 lb. stuff that I may laminate if I need something thin.

    If building a ship, I usually start the hull from the center out. It is easier to fit the end plates that way.
  9. howtogurus

    howtogurus New Member

    Hi, things will change when glued as well. I have found that pieces that do not seem to fit dry, fit fine once one side has some glue on it and gains flexibility.
  10. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I agree on that. Maybe the fiber matrix loosens up a bit. I once took a spoon and used it as a "mold' to make a canoe. It is quite amazing the compound curves you can make when getting the paper really moist. Of course, this only works for a model you are going to paint.
  11. 5thWheeL

    5thWheeL New Member

    Paper 160gs/m2 is very versatile. You can build small details, and strenght is still sufficient for bigger parts.
  12. Experimental Designs

    Experimental Designs Papercraft Visionary

    At the height of my modeling capabilites before the fire I sometimes used up to 8 different types of paper thickness for one model.

    My salvaged designs and concepts will remain classified for now but I can tell you that you'll get better results using a large variety of paper thicknesses rather than stick to one or two.

    The trick is knowing which type of thickness to use and for what application.

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