Painting those LPB's
- Thread starter Arlaghan
- Start date
Looks like you got it down, Arl!
I looked at the pic you posted of yours beside a Preiser and before reading I knew which was which. The preiser looks flat and undetailed. Theis technique pulls out the details. Your right, they don't look that great up close, but neither do a lot of real people. When viewed at a reasonable distance, they look a lot better than any prepainted ones.
He's not any crazier than me! It's really not that hard if you read Bryan Falyes instructions (twice
) and for smaller scales, HO or N, O change the recipe slightly. After painting them black, drybrush white (with a very dry brush) all over. The young ladies at the bottom right are at that stage:
Then instead of dry brushing the pastels, they are thinned to teh point of being translucent, then painted on over the white. The result is at least as good as drybrushing the color on, and you have better control over where it goes, which is important in smaller scales.
The others have had the transulcent pastel colors painted on over the drybrushed white. If they look like the "Night of the Living Dead" as described by I believe it was brakie, LOL, in chat, stand back from the monitor to the point where they look as big as they would on your HO or N layout.
These 6 were my first attempt and I have not revisited the technique for LPBs. I haven't even finished off the two gals. I was excited and just had to try it after reading Bryans web site. Also, these are super cheapo circus craft figures. Expect better results from naked Preisers or model power figures. After I explained my modification to the technique, Bryan said he was also painting this way and just hadn't updated the page. Also, I painted the fleshtones on thick, realizing there was no way I could accurately drybrush those little hands. I hadn't thought up the translucent technique yet. So they should loose the "Night of the Living Dead" look next round. Also a squirt of dullcoat would tame them down. Even as they are, see them in person, and you would be amazed that it was done by a person who can't apint, first try. They could be used as is.
I did do some Preiser animals I posted elsewhere, and again here:
mmmmmmm Heinekin mmmmmm..... Back to Arl
I looked at the pic you posted of yours beside a Preiser and before reading I knew which was which. The preiser looks flat and undetailed. Theis technique pulls out the details. Your right, they don't look that great up close, but neither do a lot of real people. When viewed at a reasonable distance, they look a lot better than any prepainted ones.
He's not any crazier than me! It's really not that hard if you read Bryan Falyes instructions (twice
) and for smaller scales, HO or N, O change the recipe slightly. After painting them black, drybrush white (with a very dry brush) all over. The young ladies at the bottom right are at that stage:
Then instead of dry brushing the pastels, they are thinned to teh point of being translucent, then painted on over the white. The result is at least as good as drybrushing the color on, and you have better control over where it goes, which is important in smaller scales.
The others have had the transulcent pastel colors painted on over the drybrushed white. If they look like the "Night of the Living Dead" as described by I believe it was brakie, LOL, in chat, stand back from the monitor to the point where they look as big as they would on your HO or N layout.
These 6 were my first attempt and I have not revisited the technique for LPBs. I haven't even finished off the two gals. I was excited and just had to try it after reading Bryans web site. Also, these are super cheapo circus craft figures. Expect better results from naked Preisers or model power figures. After I explained my modification to the technique, Bryan said he was also painting this way and just hadn't updated the page. Also, I painted the fleshtones on thick, realizing there was no way I could accurately drybrush those little hands. I hadn't thought up the translucent technique yet. So they should loose the "Night of the Living Dead" look next round. Also a squirt of dullcoat would tame them down. Even as they are, see them in person, and you would be amazed that it was done by a person who can't apint, first try. They could be used as is.
I did do some Preiser animals I posted elsewhere, and again here:
Does anyone have a link as to where we can find some of those unpainted N scale figures? Seems to me that I found them somewhere but can't remember who stocks them. I've got some time right now and a layout that is in mothballs waiting to move, so I would like to give this a shot.
I've got some OO and OOO brushes, but I would think a brush with just a few bristles would give better control. Just wondering....
Don
I've got some OO and OOO brushes, but I would think a brush with just a few bristles would give better control. Just wondering....
Don
This is good timing.... I keep staring at the box of unpainted people sitting on my workbench.... Wondering if I'll get the courage to try again.... Maybe this was just what I needed to get motivated to do it.
You can get them from walthers or about anywhere that carries all the walthers and Preiser stuff. http://www.walthers.com or http://www.1stplacehobbies.com etc absnut got some preisers in that were 200:1 or sumpthin' and looked funny. Tyson ordered some that were truely N scale and didn't look so funny. I think absnut was able to reorder. I kant remember. just be careful or ax them what to order.
Give it a go guppy! You can do it! No skills required, I certainly have none!
absnut got some preisers in that were 200:1 or sumpthin' and looked funny. Tyson ordered some that were truely N scale and didn't look so funny. I think absnut was able to reorder. I kant remember. just be careful or ax them what to order.Give it a go guppy! You can do it! No skills required, I certainly have none!
Yep, I also was going to recommend Walthers.. My LHS orders them from Walthers (they don't stock figures as there are just way to many) but they give me a 25% discount from Walthers prices, so I always give them my business. Even at Walthers' price, the figures are still a bargain when you consider that the box comes with over 120.
ezdays, OO and OOO brushes are good! I would also recommend you add a 10/O brush to that for getting the really tiny areas. My set consists of O, 3/O, 5/O and 10/O but I only really use the O and 10/O.
Also, if you guys are looking for a cheap but good set of waterbased acrylics, go check out Michaels. I bought a set from a company called "Delta Ceramcoat" that came with 24 colors for only $10. These were NOT in the paint section, but in the CRAFTS section. I was worried they wouldn't be any good, but they are every bit as good as the paints I used to use when painting the 25mm lead/pewter figures (which have since all dried up). At $10 a set, who cares if they dry up?
EDIT: Oh, I forgot to address the "steady hands" comment. My hands are probably not all that steady... but I have a tip to pass on to you to compensate for this. I find that propping my hand helps keep it steady - then I just move my fingers to control the brush. (Both hands should be propped, the hand holding the sprue should have its elbow on the table, the other elbow as well, and the furthermore, I prop my painting hand on the sprue itself with a couple of unused fingers. This way, any shake that your brush or holding hand make is transfered to the whole thing as a unit, so the brush shakes along with the figures.
As for good eyes... well... the magnifier does help at times... it just takes some getting used to. Use slow motions when approaching the brush to the model... otherwise you might think you are about to paint the face, but instead you glob some paint onto their chest! As long as you don't use a gazillion colors, you should be able to knock out a paintjob in about 10 to 15 minutes. Just make sure you remove all the flashing before you prime them! This is the most tedious part and takes way more then 10 minutes.
ezdays, OO and OOO brushes are good! I would also recommend you add a 10/O brush to that for getting the really tiny areas. My set consists of O, 3/O, 5/O and 10/O but I only really use the O and 10/O.
Also, if you guys are looking for a cheap but good set of waterbased acrylics, go check out Michaels. I bought a set from a company called "Delta Ceramcoat" that came with 24 colors for only $10. These were NOT in the paint section, but in the CRAFTS section. I was worried they wouldn't be any good, but they are every bit as good as the paints I used to use when painting the 25mm lead/pewter figures (which have since all dried up). At $10 a set, who cares if they dry up?
EDIT: Oh, I forgot to address the "steady hands" comment. My hands are probably not all that steady... but I have a tip to pass on to you to compensate for this. I find that propping my hand helps keep it steady - then I just move my fingers to control the brush. (Both hands should be propped, the hand holding the sprue should have its elbow on the table, the other elbow as well, and the furthermore, I prop my painting hand on the sprue itself with a couple of unused fingers. This way, any shake that your brush or holding hand make is transfered to the whole thing as a unit, so the brush shakes along with the figures.
As for good eyes... well... the magnifier does help at times... it just takes some getting used to. Use slow motions when approaching the brush to the model... otherwise you might think you are about to paint the face, but instead you glob some paint onto their chest!
As long as you don't use a gazillion colors, you should be able to knock out a paintjob in about 10 to 15 minutes. Just make sure you remove all the flashing before you prime them! This is the most tedious part and takes way more then 10 minutes. Thanks for the steady-hand-hint, Arl! :thumb:
You rekindled my courage for painting LPBs, so I went to my LHS this afternoon. I nearly doubled over when he said that Preiser wouldn't deliver the sets of unpainted figures anymore here in Europe.
So I'll have to order them from the USA or Canada. And the craziest thing is that they are probably still cheaper for me (including P&P from the USA) than when I had bought them in the LHS here in Switzerland!
If I am lucky I might find a set or two somewhere on a dusty shelf in another hobby shop for a bargain price. Ok, I'll try that first...
Ron
You rekindled my courage for painting LPBs, so I went to my LHS this afternoon. I nearly doubled over when he said that Preiser wouldn't deliver the sets of unpainted figures anymore here in Europe.
So I'll have to order them from the USA or Canada. And the craziest thing is that they are probably still cheaper for me (including P&P from the USA) than when I had bought them in the LHS here in Switzerland!
If I am lucky I might find a set or two somewhere on a dusty shelf in another hobby shop for a bargain price. Ok, I'll try that first...
Ron
So this is my first try with the black shadows. I agree with whomever said to drybrush with white before adding colour. I didn't do that with the guy on the left and I'll be redoing his sweater. The lumpiness on the leg of the lady in purple is from not taking the time to smooth some rough bits on the plastic before painting. They are Preiser HO.
shaywen
shaywen
Shaywen,
I like the vividness of the colors! Great job! I'm going to found a fluffy brush and try the white drybrushing idea out. The smoothing of the plastic is rather tedious, isn't it? I find myself getting it to the point where it's "good enough" otherwise I'll be at it all day.
And if it hasn't been said before, welcome to the Gauge!
I like the vividness of the colors! Great job! I'm going to found a fluffy brush and try the white drybrushing idea out. The smoothing of the plastic is rather tedious, isn't it? I find myself getting it to the point where it's "good enough" otherwise I'll be at it all day.
And if it hasn't been said before, welcome to the Gauge!
Anyone in the Toronto-centered area can probably meet Brian Fayle at the Toronto train show in March or the Great British Train Show (plug ) in April. Brian now does most of his work in O, but he has some HO figures.
He has a slide show he usues for clinics. One of the shots showing shadows was taken at an outdoor meeting our club had, and the gentleman shown received some comments about the large shadow that started just above his belt buckle.ops:
) in April. Brian now does most of his work in O, but he has some HO figures.He has a slide show he usues for clinics. One of the shots showing shadows was taken at an outdoor meeting our club had, and the gentleman shown received some comments about the large shadow that started just above his belt buckle.
ops:Varicose veins
Looks great!The unpainted Preisers are a real bargain for sure. You should realize if you are mail ordering, the quantity on some sets, like Figures and Animals might not be a count of figures, per se, rather a coutn of parts. This particular kit has around 50 figures (as I recall) and a lot of detail parts, wagons, tools etc. Although a highly recommneded set, if you want 120 figures, your not going to get that with the Figures and Animals set. Here's a search for unpainted figures:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search...s=unpainted&instock=Q&split=300&Submit=Search
and another:
http://www.1stplacehobbies.com/figu...s=unpainted&walthers=&pl=&ph=&sp=1&cp=1&lid=0
Arl thanks for the paint it black first idea, will have to try it. Your figures are fantastic! :thumb:
OK.... I painted some people black last night... After they dried, I tried to add some color... Then I showed my girlfriend those and some of the ones I had done before....
She told me not to do the black ones anymore...
I tried to get some pics, but my camera is not the best for close ups.
Looks like I'll just have to keep working at it. One of these days, I may get one done to my satisfaction.
She told me not to do the black ones anymore...
I tried to get some pics, but my camera is not the best for close ups.
Looks like I'll just have to keep working at it. One of these days, I may get one done to my satisfaction.
This is a great thread!
Alex, thanks for this thread. May are the times I've sat down full of confidence to paint Preiser figures with most turning out on the light side (as in sunny climes).
I tried the 'black first' on several N scale figures the other night and found that several coats of colour (acrylics) are needed. Fortunately as each coat is a bit watery (is that a word?) very little relief detail gets lost. But it's hell trying to see the detail while the figure is black. I'll go for Val's suggestion of using a grey background on a few figures.
Jon and Shaywen, I love the effect you got and now have enthusiasm for the dry brush white. I'll try cotton tips to see if that might be better than brushing.
Don, don't hold your breath for orders placed on out-of-stock Preiser unpainted stock. While I was in Germany 4 years ago I got a model shop there to order up some Victorian Era figures in HO. It took them (as a regular stockist of Preiser) 5 (yes five months) to get them! Seems they make more money selling pre-painted figures!
Errol
Alex, thanks for this thread. May are the times I've sat down full of confidence to paint Preiser figures with most turning out on the light side (as in sunny climes).
I tried the 'black first' on several N scale figures the other night and found that several coats of colour (acrylics) are needed. Fortunately as each coat is a bit watery (is that a word?) very little relief detail gets lost. But it's hell trying to see the detail while the figure is black. I'll go for Val's suggestion of using a grey background on a few figures.
Jon and Shaywen, I love the effect you got and now have enthusiasm for the dry brush white. I'll try cotton tips to see if that might be better than brushing.
Don, don't hold your breath for orders placed on out-of-stock Preiser unpainted stock. While I was in Germany 4 years ago I got a model shop there to order up some Victorian Era figures in HO. It took them (as a regular stockist of Preiser) 5 (yes five months) to get them!
Seems they make more money selling pre-painted figures!Errol
I'm lucky in this regard. I tell my LHS that I want a box of Preiser unpainted model number so and so... and they order it from Walthers. I'm under no obligation to purchase it if and when it arrives as they don't ask for a deposit. (But why would I order it if I didn't want it? The thing is if they DON'T get it, they aren't holding on to my money.)
If you need naked LPBs to practice with, these are all cheap (not actually bad quality, most):
Atlas (haven't tried these myself):
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-793
Circus Craft (there are only a few variations, many of the same people, but the price is right - good cab drivers):
220-1025 Seated Poeple-Assorted (Men & Women) -- Unpainted HO $7.95
Other Circus Craft here:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?manu=220&split=300
O scale seated men (1001 Seated Men -- Unpainted O $2.50) are a DYIers dream as the arms are positionable (i.e. off/need glued) and there are spare heads to make you own variety. I sent some to shamus, dunno if he ever used them. I dunno if the O scale womenand children are the same.
Model Power:
(I've not used these O scale ones):
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/490-6172
(these HO are decent quality, two to three of each figure, a few are too small for scale, but so are real people):
490-5772 Figure Sets -- Set of 72 Unpainted Figures HO 7.50 (out of stock at the moment :curse: )
Atlas (haven't tried these myself):
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-793
Circus Craft (there are only a few variations, many of the same people, but the price is right - good cab drivers):
220-1025 Seated Poeple-Assorted (Men & Women) -- Unpainted HO $7.95
Other Circus Craft here:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?manu=220&split=300
O scale seated men (1001 Seated Men -- Unpainted O $2.50) are a DYIers dream as the arms are positionable (i.e. off/need glued) and there are spare heads to make you own variety. I sent some to shamus, dunno if he ever used them. I dunno if the O scale womenand children are the same.
Model Power:
(I've not used these O scale ones):
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/490-6172
(these HO are decent quality, two to three of each figure, a few are too small for scale, but so are real people):
490-5772 Figure Sets -- Set of 72 Unpainted Figures HO 7.50 (out of stock at the moment :curse: )
I bought some new paint and a new brush yesterday. Oh what a difference! I now have some pretty decent looking people (from a distance at least). Thanks for the motivation to get going on these again.