OT - how to make cardmodel into RC plan

Discussion in 'Radio Control & Other Propulsion Methods' started by yaniv, Feb 3, 2008.

  1. yaniv

    yaniv Active Member

    hi to all
    for the last month i start play with some electric RC and balsa airplane

    and got an ida

    maybe to make one of my models (halinsky or mybe jhan p47) into 1/24 or larger RC MODELS

    but any one ever tray this? i mean the paper not that strong like the balsa wood and also the electric equpment
    so nay one have ida how i can make a paper model into RC model that fly and fly and fly... :)?
  2. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    Well, paper may not be strong, but it's at least strong enough to hold the equipment I suppose... (you're not loading a 500kg bomb onto your RC plane... are you?)
  3. bigbenn

    bigbenn New Member

    If you want to copy and paste this page into your word processing package, just right click your mouse and drag the icon over this page, then select "save" and copy the content into your word processor and save to whatever file or partition you want on your PC.
    You can create a new yellow folder by right clicking your mouse and selecting folder and dragging and dropping the folder from the menu provided.
    One thing which is obvious to me, is that no kit is specific to the size of its creation. These kits are flat and in book form. Thus if you want to copy enlarge or copy reduce a kit, you can easily do this on a photocopier.
    I suggest the following procedure: Start off with A4 sheets. Photocopy enlarge to A3 each of the parts pages, of the kit.
    Take your A3 pages and cut out segments of that sheet and repaste those segments to A4 sheets, filling in the blank areas with more kit parts, but making sure you do not extend the parts to be enlarged past the sides of the A4 sheet. Then take your new A4 sheets back to the photocopier and enlarge them once more to A3.
    If you want to enlarge a kit in scale to a larger size, say 1/25 to 1/16 do this: divide 16 by 25 = 0.64 then take the square root of that (a tick with a long bar on the end of it) = 0.8, then set the photocopier to +0.8 and photocopy the first run of A4 sheets at +0.8 and then THAT run of sheets again at +0.8 to get the enlargement to 1/16
    I always photocopy enlarge in black and white, because it is cheapest, but also because I like to build big models and to illustrate the parts which are on the outside skin of the photocopy paper, I have to cut these out and glue them in place on the skin, after I have built the model but before I paint it with water based paints purchased in sample tins made up at a computer colour matching service, using the kit as the colour check.
    I glue the photocopy sheets to thin card with PVA glue. Enough glue on both surfaces as you would find on the back of a postage stamp. Lay the photocopy onto the card, using a soft cloth to get the bubbles out. Set sheets aside to dry overnight.
    Cut the parts out. Cut off all tabs. number the parts on their "back" side. Buy 1/8", 2-3mm Strawboard, backing board from a picture framers or art supply shop. Take the parts and draw around them onto the strawboard sheets. Lightly score all straight lines with your hobby knife as these are bend lines. Assemble the thin parts with PVA glue and edge join to create the shape. Cut out your strawboard parts and try fit inside the back of your thin model structure, cutting off scrap until you have a tight fit. Then PVA glue the strawboard inside your model parts and you will have a robust model to start building on. Remember to "illustrate" the paper skin with doors, window openings and so on, before painting.
    I always start with the largest structures and build smaller parts onto them, especially from a very detailed kit in a language I don't understand.
    Model ships. I build the hull in 2 parts which come apart at the waterline. I use the waterline stripe (bootmark) as the place to hide the joint, and the model can be water sealed here with rubberised caulk before floating) I build an upper and a lower keel (with space removed from inside the keels structure for r/c later on) out of 2 layers of 4mm strawboard laminated together with PVA glue, cross sections are 4mm thick and trimmed to fit over the 8mm thick centre keels. I build the deck layer of 4mm strawboard, which I glue in place after I have removed 4mm from the upper hull keel structure. I sheet the outside of the lower hull first in thin card, after I have lightly PVA glued it to a chipboard building sheet drawn up with a ruler straight, centre line. Once skinned (roughly) and the PVA has dried, slide a breadknife under the structure to release it from the building board.
    Use the lower hull structure as the form to lightly PVA glue the upper hull keel skeleton to (so the parts fit together) then sheet that and gently prise the completed hull parts apart.
    Now, use 2mm strawboard to sheet between the 4mm hull ribs and keel and sheet upper and lower hulls, glueing car first one side, then the other to avoid warping, inside. On completion you will have a solid & strong hull structure on which to build the rest of the model.
    Small parts, make solid (internally) with card waste PVA glued inside. Always paint completed parts before final assembly. Never use filler or sandpaper on a model construction (shudder). Be precise and compete against yourself for perfection. Experiment, experiment, experiment.
    Rivets. Droplets of glue applied with a hypodermic syringe or a pointed stick or piece of card. Windows, after the model is painted - drape a bubble of PVA glue over the opening and allow to dry. PVA glue dries clear. Varnish or Shellac your model after painting and when it is complete and not before, because PVA glue sinks into the pores of the card making a very strong joint (like welding joints). Varnish and shellac also sink into the card, filling the pores and stopping PVA glue from bonding, if this is done before assembly. A model which might get wet or submerged, needs to be waterproofed with varnish or shellac, after painting.........
    I have not tried aircraft because I'm not really into them, but the same blurb above, should also work with aircraft too - with experimentation.
  4. yaniv

    yaniv Active Member


    thanks u alot for your explanetion its realy help to me to see how i going to do it
    can u please send me some pic from your progres or your finshed models ?

    thanks alot
  5. degreen60

    degreen60 Member

    You can make a plane out of foam using the printed paper for plans then glue the printed paper on the finished plane instead of painting. Here is a Zero I am building now.

    Attached Files:

  6. bigbenn

    bigbenn New Member

    I have to take some pix of my card models and will get on it later next week.
    I am not building anything at the moment, so you will get to see finished models, split in half at the waterline and so on.
    Love your foam and paper Zero Degreen60, is this a radio control model, free flight or what and how do you balance the model before flying it?
  7. degreen60

    degreen60 Member

    It is a radio control model. I usally can balance a model when I install the batteries. If not I add weight as needed. This is my first model using printed paper. I have a WW1 Albatros that I printed lozenge pattern on paper then glued on the top of the wings. I used a printed paper airplane to get the lozenge pattern. A nice bonus to covering the foam with printed paper is how stiff the wings are when finished. You do not have to add spars.
  8. panzerstrike6432

    panzerstrike6432 New Member

    use depron foam

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