OK, Iv'e got the pine-sol

[jr switch]

Went to town today and got the pine-sol. I need to strip a small box car and a gondola due to I have too much paint on them. Got to start over. I need suggestions on how you all have been doing this. Do you use a rag? Cottonballs? Q-tips? How long before the pine-sol disolves the paint?
Is the pine-sol used full strength? And lastly, should the cars be rinsed in hot water after this is done?
I also want to try using the chalk for weathering and was wondering, after the desired shading is reached, can the car be lightly sprayed with flat clear to seal it?----Thanks for your help---John R

 

[Seaboard]

I was told you put the pin sol in a container and let the car soak in it for 20 to 25 minutes, take it out and the paint should start to peel off. It usually works that way. Iv'e tried it.

 

[jr switch]

Thanks Sean, and Welcome aboard------like your choice of RR----John H

 

[65GASSER]

I was wondering if you could seal the chalk with a flat coat as well. Interested to see if that will work.

 

[Seaboard]

Thanks jr switch, And I hope your repaint project turns out well!

 

[LongIslandTom]

Yes you can. The chalk does become very subdued once sealed, so one has to apply the chalk pretty heavily though.

 

[MilesWestern]

Can a shell with a layer of Spray Paint come off in Pine-sol as well?

 

[Seaboard]

Can a shell with a layer of Spray Paint come off in Pine-sol as well?

I'm pretty shure it can. I tried it with the really hard coat paint thats printed on. Comes right off no sweat.

 

[MilesWestern]

Thanks RR man, I think I might try it out in these next few days, thanks!

 

[snick]

paint

If it is plastic Easy-Off oven cleaner works great. Put item on a plastic trash bag and spray, let sit around 15 min then clean with water. Wear gloves!!!

 

[Glen Haasdyk]

Here's how I use the Pine sol:
Pour it full strength into a rubbermaid contianer with a selable lind and dump your items that are to be striped in it. Wait about half an hour and the take the bodies out and scrub with a toothbrush. Rinse with water after you've finished scrubing (water will semi- re-harden the paint) if any paint is left on repeat the process. remember to wear gloves as well. I found it's best to use warm (not hot) water for the rinse. Hot water will soften the plastic.

 

[jr switch]

Glenn, not having much luck with the pine-sol. I have an older brass switcher that I had used some black paint on to try out different weathering ideas and then decided to strip off the paint and repolish for display. It has been in the coffee can full of the pine-sol all night and still has paint on it. The hopper that I'm trying to strip can not be dis-assembled and I applied the pine-sol with a brush, left it on for at least an hour, barely touched the paint. I'm thinking I might try oven cleaner and just use it carefully, with gloves--John R

 

[itdincor]

Would this technique work for removing decals? As an example, I've bought a couple of locos which were only available with line decals which will not be appropriate for the layout I am beginning. I wish to remove and replace, them, and am searching for a good way. I read that something called Solvaset may do the job, but if Pinesol works, that's fine, too.

What do you fellows think? Would Pinesol be effective and safe (for the model itself) at removing decals?

Sure is a neat tip, in any event.

 

[Glen Haasdyk]

What kind of paint did you use? Pine-sol works well with enamels but dosen't do much with laquer based paint. I have also used the easy off oven cleaner with some success. You can follow the same procedure as the pine-sol ecept spray the part down liberaly. I use the squirt bottle, not the aerosol can.