ok, i took your advice, here it is......

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by trainsteve2435, Sep 2, 2004.

  1. hey guys, well, it was quite a job, to me anyway, but i took your guys advice and re built my gate on my layout. i have to admit, i like it better, and it is easier to lift out and put back. if anyone sees anything i forgot, please tell me. Train Clown was nice enough to draw me up a diagram, so anyway, here it is......... thanks for looking!:wave:

    Attached Files:

  2. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I would add some small blocks to the main layout to support the lift out section while you plug in the dead bolts. If you make it out of 1x2 lumber fastened on the narrow way so it doesn't interfere with using it as a walk way.
  3. thanks russ, your talking about right under the gate, just to add some support? thanks!
  4. TrainClown

    TrainClown Member

    Hi Steve,

    Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I see you worked it out for yourself.

    This is what I was going to sugest.

    Hi Steve,

    Ok, here are the drawings I promised. Sorry there not drawn with 3rd PlanIt, but it was just easier to do it this way.

    The problem: How do you make a lift-out bridge on a layout that has an elevated track section?
    So I thought about this. My idea is to make the bridge swing down, instead of up. This will allow the raised track to clear the opening. This will also remove the hinges from the top of the layout and eliminate the need to camouflage them or design tracks around them. A hook could be added to keep the bridge back and out of the way of traffic when it is down.

    Here is a drawing of the bridge from inside the layout.

    Attached Files:

  5. TrainClown

    TrainClown Member

    You should use ordinary door hinges. Remove the bolt (and the cap on the other end if it has one) and buy a steel rod that fits through the hinge's barrel. Taper the end of the rod so that it slides through the hinges a little easier and then put the rod in a vice and bend it to 90 degrees, about 20 inches from the tapered end. Then cut off the bent part so it's 4 inches long, making a handle on the rod. Put the rod through the hinges before screwing them to the bench and bridge, this will line them up perfectly. This way, you only have to pull one pin to undo both hinges, and no stooping under the table.

    Here is a drawing as viewed from under the bridge

    Attached Files:

  6. TrainClown

    TrainClown Member

    This last detail is most important. The cut, where the bridge meets the table will have to be cut at the right angle. I'm not sure what this will have to be, but you can find this out by running a few tests after the main part of the bridge is built and installed. I think that a 10 degree slant off vertical would be enough, but I would want to test this with a mock-up.

    The ties next to the join should be replaced with PCB ties. (Printed Circuit Board) and your electrical connections for your tracks can be made through a 6 pole trailer type plug. You know what I mean? One of those black rubber cheap-o 6 pole electrical plugs, that would be very reliable for the numerous plugging in and unpluggings to come. 6 pole, because you have 3 tracks. This should plug in just under the pin you least use. Leave enough slack to make this job easy.

    Here is a drawing to illustrate the angle the cut should be.

    Using the 4 door hinges will be sufficient to keep your tracks aligned. No other device will be necessary.

    Now go build yourself a swing bridge.

    TrainClown :wave:

    Attached Files:

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