newbie questions

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by zappa, Aug 6, 2007.

  1. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    tillsbury: I'm not sure why. Possibly we just left them in a default mode. It took us a while to find that we could set the whistle to blow only when we held the button down. And there were other problems with trains raing away when the short was cleared.
  2. zappa

    zappa New Member

    hi gents, thanx for all the good advice.
    This is probably the way ill go with my little shelf switcher.
    Track atlas code 55.
    Switches atlas code 55 with ground throws.
    Undertrack magnets for uncoupling still debating (im affraid a cocktail stick will get stuck in the scenery)
    And DCC, witch one? I have no id

    please some comments

  3. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    Nice switching layout tillsbury. What size is it ?
    So far my 1st switching layout is 23" by 11". My goal was to try what I could come up with using a leftover piece of shelf I got after some kitchen renovation.
    My conclusions so far:
    The main goal was to have maximum reliability, so I came with 2 guidelines:
    1) to use Peco flextrack and electrofrog switches.
    2) Go the DC way. I did some testing with some Fleischman DCC engines but got some ( too much ) glitches . I think they were caused by the sector-plate.

    Anyway, I'm now hooked to switching, it's fun.
    I'm ready to order some shelves from Ikea :)

    Here is a pic.
  4. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    So far, my best switching engines are DC Atlas GP9 CP Rail and ( of course ) the GP7 TH&B.. They are heavy and have a double flywheel.
    Then as a 2nd choice there is the Atlas MP-15DC and the ( fine tuned ) Life-Like ( TH&B )SW9-1200
    The Fleischmann German engine DB86 works nicely too.
    I almost forgot to mention my 1st engine ( tears in my eyes lol ) the MoPac Life-like GP18. It's a slow crawler
  5. berraf

    berraf Member

    I know from my own experience that the question about wiring and especially wiring of turnouts was hard to understand.
    Perhaps could this site give some help. There's some pictures of the basic principles.
    Here is a special section about Kato unitrack!

    But remember in all this how to and how don't, have fun :thumb:
  6. zappa

    zappa New Member

    here is one of my plans
    please feel free to add any comment
  7. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

    It's not showing up for me. (That happens really often on this site... arrgghh.)
  8. TrainNut

    TrainNut Ditat Deus

    If your referring to the plan that zappa said he had attached, I think he forgot the attachment as there isn't one for that post.
  9. Denyons

    Denyons Member

    Hi Zappa,
    I see that you are in Edmonton...Why not drop over to Londonderry Mall on any weekend and see the club that I am in...The Edmonton N Scalers. Our members would help you in all your questions and you may even wish to join us. We run DCC and all our turnouts are Peco Electrofrog. All our engines and rolling stock are equipped with Microtrains couplers so you could see how they work too.
    You can drop in from Noon to 5pm on Saturday or Sunday and we have a work night on Tuesday's 7 to 9pm.
    This weekend may be sparse in members as it is thanksgiving.
    Dennis B.
  10. zappa

    zappa New Member

    hi dennis,
    i sure will pay you a visit, i got a card aswell from a gentleman who works at hobbywholesale he invited me to come and have look and talk to people.he is in ho scale.
    you will not see me in the fir weeks cause we justhad a baby, when i come ill ask for you.

  11. Denyons

    Denyons Member

    Hi Steven,
    I will be in the club on Sat. the 13 Oct and Sun. 21 Oct. then alternating each weekend on Saturdays and Sundays.
    Dennis B.
  12. nolink5750

    nolink5750 Member

    Whats all this talk of electrofrogs and polyfrogs???? Can I use a Atlas remote turnouts with DCC? wall1
  13. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    nolink: You can use any turnouts you like with DC or DCC; the only difference is where insulated gaps are required, desirable or convenient.
    Electrofrogs are the all-rail frogs. These normally require a gap beyond the frog (place where the rails cross) if there's any possibility of feeding electricity from that end e.g. in a loop of track.
    Insulfrogs are the plastic frogs. These don't always actually require gaps, but sometimes it simplifies things if you do. They may or may not (depends on manufacturer and series) deaden the rail on the unselected line. You may have to read the instructions with the turnouts to see which you have. With DCC it won't matter unless you try to feed a whole layout from one place.
    (Electrofrog and Insulfrog a Peco's terms, but we use them because they're handy and descriptive.)
    Of course, a reverse loop or wye will require 4 insulating gaps in any system.

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