Newbie question

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by GT5500, Apr 24, 2006.

  1. GT5500

    GT5500 Member

    Hi there I have built quite a few paper models before but recently have come accross a lot that don't have glueing tabs. What is the norm in this situation, make up tabs from paper or just cut them out at the same time as the part?
  2. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    One very clever person suggested that you use a paper shredder, and there they are, indispensible glueing tabs! Use them on the inside and make butt joints
    I forgot who you were, but not what you suggested
  3. Teamds

    Teamds Member

    I just pencil the edge of the piece on plain paper the cut out.
    ModelArt has spoiled me, I have to use this process for my Marek and
    Thai PPW models.
  4. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    The edges of cardstock accept glue nicely. I actually cut off a great deal of tabs on purpose, I like a tighter fit than tabs usually allow.
  5. Bluenoser

    Bluenoser Member

    I also cut off some of the tabs, particularly for small parts. However, I have also drawn in tabs on the part before cutting them from the sheet when I deemed it necessary.
  6. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Reinventing the Solved

    Tabs are good for quick trial assembly but are unsightly if pursuing a higher level of model realism. Ron (one of the sites original founders) did a tutorial that's now been lost concerning his method for using 24# copy paper joining strips. The model that he built using this method is the one on the webpage title block.

  7. jasco

    jasco Member

    Reinventing the solved

    Good title! It reminds me of my place of employment. About the best thing I can say is that the computer they provide makes it easy and fun to goof off by looking at the website! The super-fast connection makes it easy to download huge PDF's and put them on my flash-drive! But enough about that. About the tabs not being appropriate for more accurate models...which ones do you mean? I usually use tabs that allow for butt joints to be made. In fact this has been my predominant objection to the Fiddler's Green models. The ones that fit inside don't seem objectionable to me. In fact, how would you keep butt joints together without them?
  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Joining Strips

    Hi Jasco,

    I've noticed that most of the better models now include joining strips. The idea is to bind in a butt joint the two pieces together without distorting the papers surface. Too thick strips will leave a soft seam on both sides of the joined strip. A thin strip made from 24# paper allows the joint to be burnished without showing the soft seam effect.

    I'm not sure what you mean by "The ones that fit inside don't seem objectionable to me. In fact, how would you keep butt joints together without them?". The difference may be semantic. I believe you're referring to a an overlap joint versus a butt joint secured with a joining strip. The idea is make the joint and resulting seam as invisible as is possible.

  9. Kaz

    Kaz Member

  10. jasco

    jasco Member

    Yes, it was the FG overlap joints I object to. I've tried to convert a B-24 to butt joints with joining strips and formers, but failed miserably. I couldn't get a good joint between the segments and the fuselage skin wouldn't fit around any formers I scaled from a technical drawing of the airplane. More kindling.
  11. Deepshark5

    Deepshark5 New Member


    Hi - the other guys are 100% correct on the advice.

    My own take (for my own-design models), is to simply think about the stresses the model will be under. For a display model, a tab that is about 4-6% of the length of the surface/width/length is usually long enough to mate edges.

    Otherwise, for my flight-capable gliders and rubber-powered aircraft, I go for 10% for added mechanical strength.

    JM Precicion car models use sub-surface flaps for a seamless finish - this is the choice of finicky pros. I usually can't be bothered lol!

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