Newbie BLI M1

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by PRR-4-6-2, Dec 20, 2004.

  1. PRR-4-6-2

    PRR-4-6-2 New Member

    Hi Guys, Newbie here.

    The wife bought me a Broadway Limited M1 to run around the tree this year. I am using old dc power pack and the train sounds fine. The thing is that it clicks or clunks a little like something is binding up and making it surge a little. I am running it on fast track and it stays on the track at all speeds. But I did get it to lock up in a slow reverse once.

    Has anyone had this problem with theirs?

    Is there anything inside the boiler like a gear that could be jumping?

    The next thing is, is there away to turn the sound down without a decoder?

    I just found this forum so I haven’t gotten into reading all the post you have, but it sound like BLI support isn’t that great.

    Thanks ahead. Dean
  2. DaytonTrainDude

    DaytonTrainDude New Member

    My BLI N & W Class A 2-6-6-4 came with a volume control tool. To manually adjust the volume, I simply remove the tender water fill hatch by pulling it straight up from the tender roof. Then using the tool, turn the manual volume control knob clockwise to increase volume and counterclockwise to decrease.

    As far as the surging, what kind of track are you using to go around the tree? I've noticed mine doesnt like Bachman EZ track at all. Sure it will run on it but not real well.

    BTW, I cant help braggin...I bought this engine, retails for $499, from Standard Hobby for $240!! This is the same engine that won Model Railroader's product of the year award. Truly an awesome machine!
  3. PRR-4-6-2

    PRR-4-6-2 New Member


    I think I have the Bachman EZ track too. I picked it up at a yard sale.

    The M1 engine was $165.99 with no shipping on e-bay. Someone had the K4 for $269.99 last week.

    The M1 is still making a clicking noise and I think I am going to open it up and look at it. I think I will end up sending it out for repair.

    What kind of power pack do you use?

    I have a basic DC power pack and have a real hard time getting the whistle to work. It’s time to upgrade everything.
  4. spitfire

    spitfire Active Member

    All BLI engines need 18" radius curves. Maybe your curve is a bit too tight. That could account for the binding, although not for the clicking.

  5. kchronister

    kchronister Member

    My BLI K4 runs like a dream. No clunking, rubbing or surging as you've noted... This is using DCC on Atlas Flextrack. However, I have a completely different issue with the loco:

    The leading truck seems to have a tendence to short against the body (the cylinders, so far as I can tell). This is striking me as very odd as my layout is all 22" radius, not even 18... it does seem to happen at specific spots (though not every time) and I've checked them over thoroughly. All in gauge, no lumps, bumps or funny bits, no sudden changes in radius or grade (actually the spots where this happens are all "on the flat")...

    Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have any ideas?

  6. DaytonTrainDude

    DaytonTrainDude New Member

    For now I'm just running the Bachman Power Pack that came with my On30 train set. I plan on upgrading to an Atlas DCC system when I begin work on my basement layout though.

    While my Lionel UP Veranda seems to run fine on 18" curves, I haven't even tried running my BLI engine on them... I think the min. recomended radius for it is 22"-24".
  7. PRR-4-6-2

    PRR-4-6-2 New Member

    It makes the noise going down the strait part of the track and now is its worse in reverse.

    Going to e-mail the guy I bought it from and take it form there.

    Thanks for all the help. Dean

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