I appologize for this very basic question, but what mainstream brands of track are compatible if not all?
Alan
Alan
Newbe ? about track compatibility
- Thread starter Alan_Frasure
- Start date
Alan: can we ask what gauge track you're talking about?
I'll start by saying that for track with raised roadbed (EZtrack, Powerlock, Kato, Fastrack), each brand has its own method of joining and they are not compatible.
Flat track without roadbed is universally compatible as long as you get the same rail height (the "code"). (Code is the rail height measured in .001".) You'll find small differnces in tie height that require a bit of cardboard or something under the end of a rail.
O gauge toy train track (3-rail) has 3 divisions - O and O27 (which are the heavy and light metal rails) and the plastic roadbed tracks.
I'm not sure about the really large scale stuff.
I'll start by saying that for track with raised roadbed (EZtrack, Powerlock, Kato, Fastrack), each brand has its own method of joining and they are not compatible.
Flat track without roadbed is universally compatible as long as you get the same rail height (the "code"). (Code is the rail height measured in .001".) You'll find small differnces in tie height that require a bit of cardboard or something under the end of a rail.
O gauge toy train track (3-rail) has 3 divisions - O and O27 (which are the heavy and light metal rails) and the plastic roadbed tracks.
I'm not sure about the really large scale stuff.
Sorry, brain was on hold when I wrote that.. My question is about HO scale, Roco track.. I have an opertunity to buy some, sight-unseen, and am wondering if it is compatible with Atlas/Tyco track..
Alan
Alan
Welcome to The Gauge:thumb:
What I've seen of it could probably be adapted to each other---factors being the roadbed having to be matched up, the rail height as mentioned before and the metric system, don't forget that European track is measured metrically while ours is in inches---curves will not meet properly.
What I've seen of it could probably be adapted to each other---factors being the roadbed having to be matched up, the rail height as mentioned before and the metric system, don't forget that European track is measured metrically while ours is in inches---curves will not meet properly.
I would be leary of european track...except Peco's stuff that's marked here. Some of the Roco comes with an integrate roadbed that will require a little effort to mate with "american" track. Also, the cast on details are for track bolted to the ties instead of spiked. As shaygetz said, their curve radii do not typically match up, nor due their track "codes" always match up. Then they also sometimes have a slightly different rail joiner set up...I don't know if it is compatible or not.
I'd recommend just getting Atlas code 83 with Atlas custom line turnouts (code 83) for cheap track and either micro engineering or shinohara (walthers) for really nice stuff. Code 100 is appropriate for modeling the Pennsylvania Rail Road...Code 83 is appropriate for modern mainlines...Code 70 is appropriate for most steam and transition era mainlines...Code 55 is appropriate for 1880 and 1890 model railroads.
You can also, when starting a layout, look into handlaying your own track. It isn't difficult, but it can be quite enjoyable. Turnouts are also WAY cheaper this way.
I'd recommend just getting Atlas code 83 with Atlas custom line turnouts (code 83) for cheap track and either micro engineering or shinohara (walthers) for really nice stuff. Code 100 is appropriate for modeling the Pennsylvania Rail Road...Code 83 is appropriate for modern mainlines...Code 70 is appropriate for most steam and transition era mainlines...Code 55 is appropriate for 1880 and 1890 model railroads.
You can also, when starting a layout, look into handlaying your own track. It isn't difficult, but it can be quite enjoyable. Turnouts are also WAY cheaper this way.