New Layout Plan

Discussion in 'G / O / S Scale Model Trains' started by Cannonball, Dec 21, 2006.

  1. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    I measured the basement and the biggest I can get away with is two 4x6 tables. This is what I came up with but it may have to be modified to loose some switches.

    Attached Files:

  2. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    Slight variation

    Attached Files:

  3. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    Nice. You still have the potential to run two trains on it, and it's got some variety if you run one train. I like it.
  4. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    I'd like to be able to set something up where I could run two trains with no difficulties, have a few switching possibilities for each and not have to worry about any collisions. I'm afraid the room just isn't there, however. At least not at an angle I'm seeing anyway. I'm wondering if I could pull it off better setting the two side by side instead of L shaped and work with a 5x8 area. I also came up with plans for a straight 4x10 layout but they're on my computer at home. (I'm "working" until 11.)
  5. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    As it is you can run two trains on that layout. Make the four straights leading up to the switch on the far right side of the layout into a dead zone by insulating them from the rest of the track. Then, on a distant part of your inner loop, insulate one rail on several successive sections, and run wires from those sections over to that dead zone. Basically what you want is for the train to come to a stop if the train on the inner loop comes to the switch, so it can go through, then once it's out of the way, it activates power so both trains can run again.

    Of course that switch that serves both trains will have to be a non-derailing one.

    I'm not sure if I explained it very clearly. But it's possible, and it'll really make people wonder how you did it when they see it. They'll be even more impressed when you tell them you did it without any electronics whatsoever. :)
  6. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    See the attachment for my really lovely diagram. (I can't draw worth anything with a laptop touchpad.)

    Put an insulating pin where the red circles are. Note that you can leave the middle rail alone. The green rails need to be insulated. Run a wire (those blue lines) from each insulated rail over to the dead section that was insulated by the red pins. What will happen is that a train on your outer loop can only cross that dead section if the train on the inner loop is running on one of the sections with the insulated rail on it.

    Make sense?

    Attached Files:

  7. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    Oops, wait a minute. That won't work. The dead section needs to be further to the left, on the curved leg. But the wiring concept is the same.
  8. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    *head explodes*
    uuummm... Yeah! Sure! :D

    1) Do I have to insulate each induvidual piece of track on the green rails or just each end of those sections?

    2) Do I just insulate the outside rail of the green sections and run a wire from the outside rail of the "dead zone?"

    3) Are the green rails insulated in the same manner as the dead zone? (By using fiber/insulating pins)

    4) Will it work wilt the trains going opposite directions of each other?

    5) Will the dead zone still be in play if I am only running one train?
  9. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    1-3. You can get away with just insulating the ends of those sections. Same for the green rails, but you will have to put insulating paper on the rail itself, to insulate that rail from the other one. Then you run from outer rail to outer rail, yes.

    5. To run just one train, put a wire with a switch on it going to the dead zone, so it can work without the second train.

    4. Yes it will, but the train on the outer loop always has to go the same direction. Well, you may be able to make it work in either direction by putting two dead zones on the outer loop, but then the train will stop an extra time for what appears to be no reason.

    This would be a good thing to play around with on the floor with some extra track beforehand, to get the hang of how it works.
  10. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    Insulating paper? :confused:
    Never heard of it. (Then again, I've never gotten into these wild wiring tricks before)

    OK... That I actually understand. :D

    OK... Since I'm having trouble figuring out just ONE dead zone, we'll skip the theatrics of trains going opposite directions. :D

    Might be a good idea. ;)
  11. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    Nothing special about insulating paper... To make an insulated track section, just pry up one of the rails, cut a square the size of the insulators on the middle rail (some people use black file folders; I use brown paper grocery bags), wrap that around the rail where the ties attach, then put the rail back in place and push the tab on the tie back down. Now you've isolated that outer rail, and you can use it to control stuff.

    What I would do would be to start out really simple. Make a circle of track, put a couple of switches on it, and put an oval on the outside of it. Lock two engines into forward only, and play around with the position and length of the dead zone on the outer loop, and the insulated rail on the inner loop.
  12. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    Now I have an excuse to buy a second engine! :D
  13. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    You only have one engine? What do you have?
  14. Elcoholic

    Elcoholic New Member

    Cannonball......Consider a second level above the "ground." It will effectively double your trackage and render the two-train issue moot. There's no need for trains to travel from one level to another. My second level is kind of like an "El" and actually has a four-track "yard" above the lower main line. Also consider long "sidings" that are connected at both ends which work for train "storage" and allow two trains to be run on the same main line......but obviously, not at the same time.

    Lastly, you do not need an excuse to buy another engine. I consider the ownership of a few dozen engines to be my personal manifest destiny. Feel free to use my logic. Steam engines are easy to "hide" from those who would limit your extravagance. Example: "Is that another new engine, dear?" "No,'s the BLACK ONE, remember?"
    Then, of course, there's the "shell game." This works particularly well with Williams FM engines. Remove the two screws that hold on the body shell and bodies can be switched in 3 seconds. My wife became so tired of looking at "the same old engine" that she finally suggested that I get a new one. (Bless her heart.)

    The shortest distance between two points is an angle.
  15. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    It's the old 2-4-0 from my original set from 1974. It's a cheap one. No light, no smoke, and no whistle. It does have the old reverse switch built under the cab though. It has more sentimental value than anything. I just won another from eBay that may or may not run. I got it for $17.00 so if it does run, cool. If it doesn't, it's getting parted out to fix a few things on my old one.

    After tax season, I'm gettin' a Penn Flyer set and maybe a small switch engine just for fun. I'll stash away the Fastrack for next Christmas and sell off the CW80 from the set.

    I'm gonna have to get more switches for my latest layout design as well. :eek:

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